1982 2.8i Project

Discussion in 'Members Capris' started by TheRealExile, 17 October 2021.

  1. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Picked up this 1982 2.8i last Friday.

    Paint is tatty but it's solid underneath and has a fairly recent MOT, big history file on no advisories for rot in the MOT history.

    Someone has spent a bit in the past, all polybushed and new shocks.

    Main niggles are the fuel gauge seemingly doesn't work, the horn has stopped working and I'm not sure about the battery or starter motor.

    I thought the temp gauge wasn't working but oddly I switched the blower on and the gauge sprung in to life, it does start heading towards the red but as soon as I switch the blower on the gauge drops back to the middle.... not sure if I have an air lock

    Sunroof seal has perished too. 20211017_190738.jpg 20211017_190846.jpg
     
  2. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    Great start..
    and well done mastering the forum file uploader straight off the cuff !!

    Mineral or Krystall on the blue front ??
     
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  3. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    That is a very good question and my trim plate is missing... might have to get the paint matched.
     
  4. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    have a look in the boot, under the false floor, above the washer bottle.. a sticky label - colour, code, paint manufacturer,, !
    never know it may be there ..
    looks like-->

    Capri 78 paint id labels.jpg
     
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  5. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Thank you, I shall take a look!

    Engine seems to be an 84 with an EK code and a 5 speed box, it also has the E stamped on it which in theory means it can use unleaded (super non e10) ? Or should I use an additive regardless?
     
  6. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    no Capri engine was designed to run on unleaded without added protection.. does the engine number match the Capri Vin?
    as far as ethanol is concerned.. up to september fuels were E5 and folk were happy to deprive the engines of the correct octane rating.. fling in a supplement and all is OK..
    since the introduction of E10, a few little changes.. Still using protection, make sure you are now using the correct octane level for the engine, so 98-101 is the correct range..
    you still need to protect - say valvemaster for instance.. Ethanol is at the lower end of the scale by default, in fact depending on the fuel supplier, and your location it may even be 0%
     
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  7. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    No it doesn't match the logbook, vin does though, car was Nov 1982 but this Engine code is from 84 according to the chart on the Burton Power website, also has a 5 speed box where I would have thought an 82 car would have come with a 4, someone has also added the seats from the special too.
    Just ordered some valvemaster plus but it doesn't arrive til Thursday, will the 5.99 redex stuff do as a stop gap? I can get that today.
     
    Last edited: 18 October 2021
  8. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Seems they have been painted over at some point 20211018_083833.jpg
     
  9. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    As a positive my replacement steering cowling arrived just now. Might get on that later!
    20211018_094352.jpg 20211018_094223.jpg
     
  10. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Interesting that the handbrake light has seemingly sprung back in to life, all I did was rust proof the front floor pans and move a few wires must have a bad earth somewhere perhaps.
     
  11. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Had a nose at the axle and rear brakes, looks like someone has put a fancy cover on the Axle, some chrome tanks straps and a rear brake disc conversion. Not sure if the Axle is a LSD or just a cover to make it look good, how do I check? Something to do with jack it up and turn the wheels and see if one or both turn? Been so long I honestly can't remember!

    20211025_123045.jpg 20211025_123151.jpg 20211025_123035.jpg
     
  12. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    Jack car up on diff and rotate one wheel, the other should rotate as well in the same direction.
     
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  13. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Few little bits arrived from tickover, dash and clock light bulbs, spare fuses and my missing front bumper end cap screw covers. 20211027_163116.jpg
     
    Last edited: 27 October 2021
  14. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Took the old girl out for a little shakedown run, to BP to fill up and then round the Woolley Bridge roundabout and back home via Screwfix.

    Harsher ride than I remember but I think that must be the polybushing perhaps! The exhausts are rather loud too, even though a bit tatty we got a few thumbs up and quite a bit of attention.

    Pulls well, and other than electrics I couldn't find anything wrong other than a very minor whine in 3rd and 4th, didn't get to 5th!!

    I think I know why the battery is almost flat after the car has been run to temperature...we have seemingly an extra fan fitted which kicks in at a certain temperature, but it runs even with the ignition off meaning it drains my very fragile battery! Think it might be okay with a new battery or a change it to only come on via ignition?

    Again the temperature was creeping up until I switched the internal blower on to full, settled between half way and 3 quarters. No white crap in the oil or anything so I.....think the heads are okay.

    20211027_163136.jpg 20211027_163233.jpg
     
    Last edited: 27 October 2021
  15. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    electric fan is better wired to operate on battery only..
    its when an engine is switched off that high temps are likely to be seen..
    think about it, driving around temp at operational levels, you have airflow thru the radiator, and the pump is circulating the fluids..
    switch off - nothing.. no airflow, no circulation, a big lump of cast iron at full heat, water temp rises accordingly, and so does the pressure..
    electric fan kicks in and the water is cooled, there will be a small amount of circulation caused by cooling fluids dropping in the radiator..
    maybe make sure that the fan isnt operating at too cool a temperature, and that the pickup is some where sensible..
    reckon it is a 'kenlowe' type looking at the knob on your front radiator panel..
    it is more accurate, and easier to control if the temp sensor for the fan is at the outlet or bottom of the radiator..
     
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  16. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Thanks, that makes sense now you have explained things think I do need to invest in a new battery, paperwork shows it was new in 2015 but in all that time it's done only a few hundred miles so it might be time for a new one.
     
  17. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    3 to 4 years is the normal for a good quality battery, never had one last much longer, so it's lasted well, I've constantly got a battery off something on trickle charge, too many cars and bikes.
     
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  18. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Yeah think it's time, currently has a type 85...I think, is that correct?
     
  19. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    I always go for the biggest battery that will fit my battery tray and a battery with the highest cranking power, just don't use Halfrauds, they've been selling knock off Yuasa batteries recently, l was desperate and purchased one from them, had it checked out and it was a counterfeit, if you have two identical batteries and one is a copy and one is genuine, the real McCoy is heavier.
     
  20. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Yes, agree was going to avoid that mob, my lad works for a repair shop/breakers so he can get me a good discount at Europarts if they have anything suitable.
     
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  21. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    steer well clear of their 'Lion' batteries .. found to be utter pants !!
     
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  22. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    I was offered one of those, spent a little more for an Exide Excel instead!
     
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  23. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    made the right choice there
     
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  24. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    New battery fitted and yes of course last tighten of the positive terminal I managed to get a nice arc when my spanner slipped :rolleyes:
    I'd already done positive first but in my wisdom I'd give it one last tweak after everything was connectted:D 20211029_180718.jpg
     
  25. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    60AH really need to look and see what my Amp Hour is, your rad shroud fixing lug looks close or is it just the way you took the picture?
     
  26. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    It's just a bit zoomed in :)
     
  27. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    just an optical illusion, all good then lol
     
  28. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    um.. why 2 Reds off the + pole ??
     
  29. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    That is a very good question which I am investigating, I'm not sure either..perhaps something to do with the Kenlow type fan
     
  30. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    fechin' hope not with that size of cable !!:eek:
     
  31. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    Has it had a big Ice install at any point in the cars life, my neighbour has an install that will render a battery useless after 10 mins and probably make your ears bleed, must be my age, but can't see the point of it.
     
    Last edited: 31 October 2021
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  32. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    As a youngster I used to have amps,subwoofers the whole shabang but these days I'm happy enough with the sound of my engine. I shall trace the wiring and have a look, there has certainly been a modern stereo at some point as it has the harness type adaptors that plug in to the back of more modern units. ..... wonder if that is why there is no back shelf, stereo etc perhaps it did have a fancy system, if so I'd imagine that fat red wire will pop out in the boot area somewhere.
     
  33. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    i still run amps, cross overs and component speakers, but the power out put does not warrant me to run a power lead the size you have, im running about 400w @ 4 ohms if i was to reduce the ohms i could run higher watts but im happy with what i have at the moment
     
  34. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Found another job, the wipers only seem to work at one speed and ignore the 2nd setting, what is the usual culprit the motor or the switch on the column? Any advice appreciated before I start digging, still need to trace that red wire from the battery too.
     
  35. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    theres 2 settings on the column, feeding 2 wires (green & Red) then the motor.. Check for good connexions along the line first, but it may be duff brushes in the motor ..
     
  36. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Thank you, I shall take a look, need to do the same with the horn and replace all the dash lights.
     
  37. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    Horn - the unit is generally direct chassis earth thru the mounting bolt on the front panel, power wire is a pretty solid Red/Yellow wire from the stalk, stalk is fed Red wire off fuse1.. easy trace..
    the dash lights - be very careful - disconnect the battery before removing the pod.. theres 2 wires onto it direct off the battery/alternator run.. full 12V no fuses .. chances are you arc it as you pull the pod out the belt rail..
    big flash, melted wires, and the PCB curls up and dies !!
    replacement bulbs for the illumination are 3W T10 LLB504 ... if you put 5W bulbs in, you overheat the dimmer switch and the colour shields.. no decent light gets to the dials
    the instrument lights - handbrake, main beam, indicator, ignition are 5W..
    you could of course replace with LEDs, so be careful with polarity, put them in the wrong way - no light!
    DO NOT replace the ignition warning lamp & indicator lamp with LEDs, they wont work, and your alternator wont charge

    Have a fun day under there
    dash pod bulbs.jpg


    Dashboard plug wiring RHD 6dial.JPG
     
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  38. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Thank you once again that information is very comprehensive and exactly what I need, quite possibly saved me forking out for a new pcb too!

    Dash illumination bulbs came from Tickover and look to be correct.
     
    Last edited: 11 November 2021
  39. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    The values are printed on the bulb..
    If not correct, swap them
     
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  40. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    I was planning to drive the car to Ric Wood in the morning for a once over but I have a strange issue in that when the car is left to idle for long enough the temperature gauge will start to rise and climb towards the red, if I put the blower on the gauge drops visibly right away to between half way and two thirds, I get no hot air from the blower even with it set to max heat, I think this points to a possible air lock issue? Or heater matrix ? The other worry is quite a bit of white smoke on idle, I'm thinking it is condensation as it hasn't been driven often at all, there is no white sludge or water in the oil so hopefully not a cracked head or blown gasket. I'm a good 45 minutes drive from Ric to get him to do a compression test, might have to get myself a tester in the morning before I attempt to move it.
     
  41. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    I think its a dirty earth to the dashboard..
    when the earth is not good the Voltage regulator cannot bleed excess voltage away, so the gauges rise..
    the heater Matrix is in full circuit all the time, doesnt matter if you have the blower on or off, or where you have the flaps set, hot or cold.. The matrix is heated to the temperature of the engine coolant!
    granted if the matrix is in good condition, when yo switch the blower on, you are drawing heat away from the matrix, so in effect assisting engine cooling - but if youre not getting hot air the point is moot ..
    however - when you switch the blower on, it is quite a high draw component, so will take voltage away from other components..
    I used to get a similar effect on my fuel and temp gauges by switching on the lights - dash illumination also needs a good earth.. so the VR suffers again.. so i used the dimmer switch to deplete the voltage to the dash lamps, that allowed the earth capacity to deal with the rest !!
    separate earth strap now gets fitted to every dash i play with ..
    dash extra earth 2.JPG
     
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  42. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    I do like the plan of the separate earth strap, wish me luck as I bite the bullet and head to Ric Wood tomorrow, I have circa 30 quid of fuel that has to be enough for 20 miles :rolleyes: and I have recovery included in my Lancaster insurance policy, fingers crossed we make it!
     
  43. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Well that was a fun drive, temp gauge was trying to give me a heart attack climbing towards the red and oddly dropping to the middle when the car was sat idling at the lights! Ric is going to give the engine a good once over and see what we find.
     
  44. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    In expert hands, is he a one man band?
     
  45. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    i have a fuel gauge like that, reads full but when i get to half a tank it will read correct until i back off the throttle and use the gears to slow down, then it goes back to full
     
  46. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Expert hands for sure, seems to be more people working there than when I used to go back in the day
     
  47. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Had a call from Ric just before and the good news is they can't get it to overheat, it is the gauage that is suspect, circuit board at the back was seemingly broken. He did notice a bit of a leak from the oil filter when checking things over so has put some nice new oil in there and replaced the filter, some recommendations to discuss when I collect on Monday but nothing to worry about and he says although it isn't the prettiest it will only go up in value. The work will soon begin on the paintwork, I plan to get it to the stage where it is ready for final paint and then hand it to an expert,luckily not far from me there is a bloke recommended by the Glossop classics club who has done lots of good work for members at a fair price. I can get my final paint good from 5 yards but never quite body shop so best let them finish the job.
     
  48. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    Still trying to get you the details, he may be working away as he is in big demand, will update as soon as anything changes.
     
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  49. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    If you've got somewhere to paint it, l used to do mobile painting, for some beer tokens l can do your clear coat and i would use my trusty Devilbiss 40 year old gun, guaranteed glass finish.
     
  50. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    That is very kind of you, I have the garage which has has access all round the car, I do have a compressor but it's more air tool standard, need to get one with a larger tank capacity.
     
  51. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    I currently run a 3 1/2 hp 200 litre set up, it's 14cfm, which will run most equipment. I have a £200.00 water trap which has a 99.9999% moisture capture capacity, l use infra red heaters to dry the paint and always slow activator.
    BUT some of my best paint jobs have been achieved with a very small compressor and a good water trap, l did have fluorescent tubes on stands, but if I wasn't in my unit, l use a Makita LED floodlight so I can follow the fan and line.
     
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  52. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Sounds like it might be better if I bring the car to you !
     
  53. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    1982 2.8i
    We have dashlights!! And an interior light 20211122_184829.jpg 20211122_184845.jpg still no petrol reading with 45 quid in the tank mind, must be the sender
     
  54. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    Drives:
    - Capri II '78 series V8 -
    OK, you mentioned earlier regarding false readings on the temp gauge.. same power source as the fuel gauge .. from the voltage regulator ..
    checks to do -
    Fuse 7 - furthest from the windscreen feeds the dash power .. make sure it is clean, dry, tight ..
    Battery fully charged ..
    Disconnect the red/white off the temp-sender at the engine ..
    Disconnect the Blue/Black off the fuel-sender at the tank ..
    Ensure that on both the above wires, the connectors are clean, no corrosion, tight.. That is the pin on each sender, and inside each connector on the end of the wires..

    at the tank - check the brown wire, the chassis earth connexion, at the tank, and the wire connector as above..
    in the boot (in front of the spare wheel well slightly off centre to the right), check the wire its connector and the self-tapper holding it in place..
    I use Copperslip on all these points to assist with a good electrical connexion.. then check the resistance/continuity between that self-tapper and the Brown wire connector at the tank..

    With both pins on the tank clean and shiny, measure the resistance between the 2 with a good meter.. you should read between 10 & 74 ohms .. 10Ohms is full tank, 74Ohms is empty tank ..
    if thats all working refit the earth connexion ..

    With a meter - switch the ignition to position 2 ignition lamp showing, engine not running -
    - Measure the voltage on the Red/White wire in the engine bay.. meter across the wire and the battery negative..
    it should read between 5-7volts, but may also be a slow pulse between 5&8.. this is acceptable..
    anything lower than 5 volt - fault, any steady reading over 7volt - fault ..
    - Now measure the voltage on the Blue/Black wire at the tank sender - readings should be near identical to the temp sender wire ..

    if the voltages are matched, and in range, the Voltage Regulator is good.. and so is the wiring it would seem.

    at this stage you do now need to investigate the senders ..

    Reasons the Voltage Regulator fails - chip burns up, or the connectors in the back of the dash are dirty, damp, loose, corroded.. loose self tapper retaining it in place and ensuring it is connected to the earth track ..
    dash pod connector - All connectors, pins & tabs clean?

    if the earth to the VR is not good, it will not control the voltage correctly and invariably the gauges climb..
    most noticeable when the dash illumination is triggered by switching on the lights ..
    - I always fit a separate earth strap to the dash pod.. use the self tapper holding the VR, and a length of wire out and connected under the nearest securing screw for the heater slider controls ..

    Dash lights for illumination .. spec is LLB504 / T10 / 3W .. do not fit 5W bulbs (LLB501).. this causes excess heat,smokes the colour shields, and can damage the dimmer switch ..
     
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  55. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    thank you, when it was being checked for overheating by Ric he could not get the car to overheat despite what the gauge was telling him.

    He dug further and took the pod out and noticed that the circuit board had fried, he replaced that along with the voltage regulator, both the temperature guage and fuel gauge were also shot, luckily he carries a stock of those and they were replaced, whilst it was out he noticed I had already bought the dash bulbs ready to fit so replaced those whilst it was out.

    It seems to have cured everything other than the fuel gauge reading.

    Thank you for all the tips, I'm off to buy a new volt meter as mine has sadly turned its toes up after 35 years of service, bought it as an 11 year old to fix my rubber keyboard zx spectrum! In theory the new voltmeter might help me fix my old one :)
     
  56. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Been busy making more parking space so as the Capri isn't blocked in any more, concrete next!

    IMG_20211207_100039.jpg
     
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  57. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    Drives:
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    I see a very nice prospective parking area !
     
  58. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    I don't think I'll get away with a garage there so the other cars can all go there and then rightly so at nearly 40 years young the Capri gets the garage and a driveway all of its own:)
     
  59. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    tbh if your other cars are modern id be shocked if they fit in a garage lol
     
  60. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Sadly all quite modern, the Wife was a late driver so had to learn in a modern auto and wouldn't get down the drive without a reversing camera and all kinds of things beeping at her! the 2 eldest are just too young for cheap classic insurance but 23 and 24 so close. Both eyeing up various rapid classics. One has a 15 year old Polo which is at the stage where better the devil you know as I have replaced most of the expensive bits over the past 6 years, the other has a 10 year old modified Polo Gti circa 230 BHP which isn't bad, I swear it is bigger than the earlier Golf's! Much bigger than the earlier Polo. Annoyingly I have to have something under 8 years old due to the company car policy, I did try to buy a Ford but the local dealer couldn't be bothered even getting me a test drive of the focus ST so ended up with a dull but reliable Civic SR, can't afford a Mustang :rolleyes:
    But once all those modern things are on the bottom part of my drive other than work meetings the Capri will be my daily driver...well when it's dry! Until I work out what to do with those pesky sun roof tubes!
     
  61. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    my wife and i have 6 cars between us and we are also looking after a capri i did a lot of work on for a member as he`s in Mali with the army at present, so we do have a choice of cars but all our cars live outside and do get used wet dry sun snow or ice the garage is still not large enough even for the Capri or the 71 beetle so theres no way the modern stuff would fit
     
  62. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Concrete down and dry, 3 modern cars out of the way, can fit the Civic on too so the Capri can get out.

    I still am not sure about the amount of white smoke on idle though, it does go away when revved though, think it needs a good drive to get rid of the moisture from being sat. No water in the oil or any crud and Ric didn't see any issues. 20211214_151122.jpg 20211214_150635.jpg
     
  63. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Just moisture, all gone after a nice trip out today...only had half an hour but it seems to have blown the cobwebs away. My lads are getting me a voltmeter for Christmas so I know what I will be doing on Boxing day...fuel sender and radio here I come! Oh yes and the door locks, key fits but they don't turn, hmm hopefully as simple as wd40
     
  64. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    thats a decent size garage lucky you
     
    olliexpack23 likes this.
  65. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Yes, it was one of the main things when looking for houses that led me here.....lucky in that round here you get a lot for your money.

    Although people still use it as a dumping ground! Luckily it has eaves so some of the crap can be put out of the way.
     
  66. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    MK3 STRATOS SILVER 3.0 GHIA
    If l showed you a photo of my industrial unit, I would be embarrassed, if l had a unit the size of Wembley stadium, I'd still fill it, compulsive hoarding syndrome at its worst, the only saviour is, the cars are mostly Ford's of the 60s, 70s and 80s.
     
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  67. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Managed to find a pair of the door lock knobs on Fleabay as mine were missing for some reason. Just arrived so off to fit them!

    20211220_105129.jpg
     
  68. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Fitted! My doors actually lock now :)

    Went for a little spin too, still makes me smile.

    20211220_141046.jpg
     
  69. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    i can supply alloy ones we use at work if you or anyone else wants a pair, cost is postage only so about a first class price only
     
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  70. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Well I think the starter motor which has always been lazy has turned its toes up.
    It was doing its usual lazy slow turn which then turned in to a click, the battery is fully charged 100 percent, tried moving the car back and forth in 3rd and 2nd gear but to no avail.
    I gave it a tap with the hammer also no joy, best I get is a few clicks at the moment.

    Connections all look solid, never replaced a starter on these, is it a straightforward job? And where to get a decent replacement?

    All advice gratefully taken.
     
  71. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    Don't buy one of the shit Chinese ones that seem to be on the market. If your armature isn't worn, yours can be rebuilt.
     
  72. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Tickover say they can get mine fully refurbished for 125 plus vat, or there is a place on Fleaby selling refurbished units for 119 Inc postage, sounds better than the fakes! I'll take it off first and have a look, I also traced the 2 red battery connections that are directly connected to the terminal. One is to the alternator and the other to the starter, is that right?
     
    Last edited: 6 January 2022
  73. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    Starter motors aren't that hard to dismantle and repair yourself, there's a starter motor repair place at Burslem, S-O-T, real old school place, he dismantles them in 5 mins and tells you if it is worth repairing and he will sell an overhaul kit at a sensible price.
     
  74. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Managed to get a refurb, looks good. Hope to get time to fit tomorrow work allowing, weekend job if not.

    20220111_162825.jpg
     
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  75. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Managed to pinch half an hour today, got the Capri on the Axle stands after much ado, it is so low I couldn't quite get the trolley jack under the axle at the front, managed to approach from an angle behind the front wheel, just enough room to get the stands in on their lowest setting, moved the jack round the front so as I could get to the next height setting on the stands and in a position that I was happier with.

    Probably leave the jack in place for extra security and stick a few spare rims with tyres under the jacking area just in case.

    I had hoped to get at it without jacking it up but I'm not quite as slim as I was when I had my first Capri at 17 years old. :rolleyes:
     
  76. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    Drives:
    - Capri II '78 series V8 -
    Ha!
    The ‘old slide under the Capri with no jacks’ trick..
    Been a good few years since I could even try that one :(
     
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  77. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Well...... got another half hour at lunchtime, disconnected the battery, and got the connectors off the starter motor.
    Then attempted the first starter bolt which seemed rather tight and pop went my last 13mm socket, firstly is 13mm correct? And any tips to get the bolts out as they are not moving, I do have a breaker bar but it is more suited to wheel hubs, probably something half that size maybe? I'm going to buy some better quality 13mm sockets so will be visiting the tool shop!! 20220114_142541.jpg
     
  78. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    Long extension and a lump hammer, gently talk to the bolt heads with some good blows, try as daft as it seems tightening the bolts a little bit before loosening.
     
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  79. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Good plan, will give it a go when my stronger socket arrives! Just don't want to shear the bolts. Also is 13mm correct or should it be imperial?
     
  80. 2.8jonny

    2.8jonny Registered Capri Power Member

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    I think from memory they are 10mm threads which would normally mean a 17mm head but ford used 13mm flanged heads for tool clearance I guess.
    If they were imperial, they'd be 1/2" so slightly smaller than 13mm but I'm pretty sure 13mm is correct.
    Jonny
     
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  81. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Cheers, must be 13mm if it had enough resistance to break my cheap socket.
     
  82. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Hmm well I can see why the cheap socket broke, there isn't enough space seemingly to fully get the socket on, I can get a spanner on just but I can't get enough force on it to shift it, tried giving the spanner some mallet taps but to no avail. Lower picture is the 2nd bolt which is really tricky to access, I might be able to get to that one with an extension.

    20220117_120904.jpg 20220117_121230.jpg
     
  83. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    i normally use a thin wall socket with an extension bar and also may be wise to use a break bar to crack it off to start with
     
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  84. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Got a 1/2 inch drive set of extensions turning up tomorrow, will look out for a thinner socket as after my other snapped I bought a heavy duty one but its too fat!

    Update: Just bought a thin wall socket using prime so it turns up tomorrow! Missing driving the car already
     
    Last edited: 17 January 2022
  85. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    cheap sockets are never a good idea, thin walled sockets can be got from companies like snap on but, if im correct , i think Halfords pro range have them and would be a fraction of the price
     
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  86. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    I do have a few snap on sockets which were given to me around 30 years ago all still work well sadly they were only odd bits and no 13mm, latest ones I have bought are all good quality, the last one that snapped was part of a cheap set someone bought me. Hopefully for 9.99 the walled socket should be reasonable or at least last out this job! It's almost like Ford have made these difficult to remove on purpose!
     
  87. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    let us know how the Prime thin wall socket go when you use them as it could be something others would get if they are any good
     
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  88. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Got it off finally, access to the top bolt wasn't easy, I ended up taking the solenoid off which meant my extension bar wasn't being pushed up on an angle and could grip the bolt.

    Now to get the new one back on!! Had a little go but my hands were freezing by this point and the first bolt I had difficulty in finding the hole.... :p it's tricky holding it in place and trying to get a start on the first bolt!

    The old unit seems to turn manually at least, not had it apart as yet. 20220118_145635.jpg 20220118_165718.jpg
     
  89. 2.8jonny

    2.8jonny Registered Capri Power Member

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    Good old persistent approach wind again.
    Jonny
     
  90. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Worked well, only time will tell how long it will last but did the trick. Now to get the pesky bolts lined up right, bet it would be tons easier on a proper ramp up in the air!
     
  91. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    Drives:
    - Capri II '78 series V8 -
    must admit now that Halfords 'professional' range tools have suited me now over 2 decades I believe, and a cast iron guarantee to replace in-store if available replacement is on the shelf..
    lots of folk go on about Snap-on, but they will argue every last strand to ensure their 'lifetime' guarantee fails due to operators mis-use..
    A while back up here my Son-in-Law found an excellent MAC Tools agent, and they were really good.. but for the wee Joe in a lock-up.. go Halfords tools..
    Be Aware that lately their 'labelling' has changed so watch out for the current name attached to their brilliant life-time guarantee..

    Other kit I got a while ago (long time ago!) was a little 1/4" drive kit by 'Teng' .. Now that make I could suffer as a main set any time - rear Volvo V70 Calipers today - ripped the complete carrier off the hub mount no problem..

    last bit of advice for any sockets - get 6 sided every time.. try to leave the 'bi-hex' type in the shops !!
     
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  92. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    We have life!!! Starts on the button now :D I'm going to take the Capri for a trip to Toolstation to celebrate!! 20220119_150635.jpg
     

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