1982 2.8i Project

Discussion in 'Members Capris' started by TheRealExile, 17 October 2021.

  1. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Picked up this 1982 2.8i last Friday.

    Paint is tatty but it's solid underneath and has a fairly recent MOT, big history file on no advisories for rot in the MOT history.

    Someone has spent a bit in the past, all polybushed and new shocks.

    Main niggles are the fuel gauge seemingly doesn't work, the horn has stopped working and I'm not sure about the battery or starter motor.

    I thought the temp gauge wasn't working but oddly I switched the blower on and the gauge sprung in to life, it does start heading towards the red but as soon as I switch the blower on the gauge drops back to the middle.... not sure if I have an air lock

    Sunroof seal has perished too. 20211017_190738.jpg 20211017_190846.jpg
     
  2. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    Great start..
    and well done mastering the forum file uploader straight off the cuff !!

    Mineral or Krystall on the blue front ??
     
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  3. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    That is a very good question and my trim plate is missing... might have to get the paint matched.
     
  4. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    have a look in the boot, under the false floor, above the washer bottle.. a sticky label - colour, code, paint manufacturer,, !
    never know it may be there ..
    looks like-->

    Capri 78 paint id labels.jpg
     
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  5. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Thank you, I shall take a look!

    Engine seems to be an 84 with an EK code and a 5 speed box, it also has the E stamped on it which in theory means it can use unleaded (super non e10) ? Or should I use an additive regardless?
     
  6. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    no Capri engine was designed to run on unleaded without added protection.. does the engine number match the Capri Vin?
    as far as ethanol is concerned.. up to september fuels were E5 and folk were happy to deprive the engines of the correct octane rating.. fling in a supplement and all is OK..
    since the introduction of E10, a few little changes.. Still using protection, make sure you are now using the correct octane level for the engine, so 98-101 is the correct range..
    you still need to protect - say valvemaster for instance.. Ethanol is at the lower end of the scale by default, in fact depending on the fuel supplier, and your location it may even be 0%
     
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  7. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    No it doesn't match the logbook, vin does though, car was Nov 1982 but this Engine code is from 84 according to the chart on the Burton Power website, also has a 5 speed box where I would have thought an 82 car would have come with a 4, someone has also added the seats from the special too.
    Just ordered some valvemaster plus but it doesn't arrive til Thursday, will the 5.99 redex stuff do as a stop gap? I can get that today.
     
    Last edited: 18 October 2021
  8. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Seems they have been painted over at some point 20211018_083833.jpg
     
  9. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    As a positive my replacement steering cowling arrived just now. Might get on that later!
    20211018_094352.jpg 20211018_094223.jpg
     
  10. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Interesting that the handbrake light has seemingly sprung back in to life, all I did was rust proof the front floor pans and move a few wires must have a bad earth somewhere perhaps.
     
  11. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Had a nose at the axle and rear brakes, looks like someone has put a fancy cover on the Axle, some chrome tanks straps and a rear brake disc conversion. Not sure if the Axle is a LSD or just a cover to make it look good, how do I check? Something to do with jack it up and turn the wheels and see if one or both turn? Been so long I honestly can't remember!

    20211025_123045.jpg 20211025_123151.jpg 20211025_123035.jpg
     
  12. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    Jack car up on diff and rotate one wheel, the other should rotate as well in the same direction.
     
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  13. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Few little bits arrived from tickover, dash and clock light bulbs, spare fuses and my missing front bumper end cap screw covers. 20211027_163116.jpg
     
    Last edited: 27 October 2021
  14. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Took the old girl out for a little shakedown run, to BP to fill up and then round the Woolley Bridge roundabout and back home via Screwfix.

    Harsher ride than I remember but I think that must be the polybushing perhaps! The exhausts are rather loud too, even though a bit tatty we got a few thumbs up and quite a bit of attention.

    Pulls well, and other than electrics I couldn't find anything wrong other than a very minor whine in 3rd and 4th, didn't get to 5th!!

    I think I know why the battery is almost flat after the car has been run to temperature...we have seemingly an extra fan fitted which kicks in at a certain temperature, but it runs even with the ignition off meaning it drains my very fragile battery! Think it might be okay with a new battery or a change it to only come on via ignition?

    Again the temperature was creeping up until I switched the internal blower on to full, settled between half way and 3 quarters. No white crap in the oil or anything so I.....think the heads are okay.

    20211027_163136.jpg 20211027_163233.jpg
     
    Last edited: 27 October 2021
  15. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    electric fan is better wired to operate on battery only..
    its when an engine is switched off that high temps are likely to be seen..
    think about it, driving around temp at operational levels, you have airflow thru the radiator, and the pump is circulating the fluids..
    switch off - nothing.. no airflow, no circulation, a big lump of cast iron at full heat, water temp rises accordingly, and so does the pressure..
    electric fan kicks in and the water is cooled, there will be a small amount of circulation caused by cooling fluids dropping in the radiator..
    maybe make sure that the fan isnt operating at too cool a temperature, and that the pickup is some where sensible..
    reckon it is a 'kenlowe' type looking at the knob on your front radiator panel..
    it is more accurate, and easier to control if the temp sensor for the fan is at the outlet or bottom of the radiator..
     
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  16. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Thanks, that makes sense now you have explained things think I do need to invest in a new battery, paperwork shows it was new in 2015 but in all that time it's done only a few hundred miles so it might be time for a new one.
     
  17. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    3 to 4 years is the normal for a good quality battery, never had one last much longer, so it's lasted well, I've constantly got a battery off something on trickle charge, too many cars and bikes.
     
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  18. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Yeah think it's time, currently has a type 85...I think, is that correct?
     
  19. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    I always go for the biggest battery that will fit my battery tray and a battery with the highest cranking power, just don't use Halfrauds, they've been selling knock off Yuasa batteries recently, l was desperate and purchased one from them, had it checked out and it was a counterfeit, if you have two identical batteries and one is a copy and one is genuine, the real McCoy is heavier.
     
  20. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Yes, agree was going to avoid that mob, my lad works for a repair shop/breakers so he can get me a good discount at Europarts if they have anything suitable.
     
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  21. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    steer well clear of their 'Lion' batteries .. found to be utter pants !!
     
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  22. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    I was offered one of those, spent a little more for an Exide Excel instead!
     
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  23. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    made the right choice there
     
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  24. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    New battery fitted and yes of course last tighten of the positive terminal I managed to get a nice arc when my spanner slipped :rolleyes:
    I'd already done positive first but in my wisdom I'd give it one last tweak after everything was connectted:D 20211029_180718.jpg
     
  25. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    60AH really need to look and see what my Amp Hour is, your rad shroud fixing lug looks close or is it just the way you took the picture?
     
  26. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    It's just a bit zoomed in :)
     
  27. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    just an optical illusion, all good then lol
     
  28. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    um.. why 2 Reds off the + pole ??
     
  29. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    That is a very good question which I am investigating, I'm not sure either..perhaps something to do with the Kenlow type fan
     
  30. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    fechin' hope not with that size of cable !!:eek:
     
  31. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    Has it had a big Ice install at any point in the cars life, my neighbour has an install that will render a battery useless after 10 mins and probably make your ears bleed, must be my age, but can't see the point of it.
     
    Last edited: 31 October 2021
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  32. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    As a youngster I used to have amps,subwoofers the whole shabang but these days I'm happy enough with the sound of my engine. I shall trace the wiring and have a look, there has certainly been a modern stereo at some point as it has the harness type adaptors that plug in to the back of more modern units. ..... wonder if that is why there is no back shelf, stereo etc perhaps it did have a fancy system, if so I'd imagine that fat red wire will pop out in the boot area somewhere.
     
  33. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    i still run amps, cross overs and component speakers, but the power out put does not warrant me to run a power lead the size you have, im running about 400w @ 4 ohms if i was to reduce the ohms i could run higher watts but im happy with what i have at the moment
     
  34. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Found another job, the wipers only seem to work at one speed and ignore the 2nd setting, what is the usual culprit the motor or the switch on the column? Any advice appreciated before I start digging, still need to trace that red wire from the battery too.
     
  35. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    theres 2 settings on the column, feeding 2 wires (green & Red) then the motor.. Check for good connexions along the line first, but it may be duff brushes in the motor ..
     
  36. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Thank you, I shall take a look, need to do the same with the horn and replace all the dash lights.
     
  37. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    Horn - the unit is generally direct chassis earth thru the mounting bolt on the front panel, power wire is a pretty solid Red/Yellow wire from the stalk, stalk is fed Red wire off fuse1.. easy trace..
    the dash lights - be very careful - disconnect the battery before removing the pod.. theres 2 wires onto it direct off the battery/alternator run.. full 12V no fuses .. chances are you arc it as you pull the pod out the belt rail..
    big flash, melted wires, and the PCB curls up and dies !!
    replacement bulbs for the illumination are 3W T10 LLB504 ... if you put 5W bulbs in, you overheat the dimmer switch and the colour shields.. no decent light gets to the dials
    the instrument lights - handbrake, main beam, indicator, ignition are 5W..
    you could of course replace with LEDs, so be careful with polarity, put them in the wrong way - no light!
    DO NOT replace the ignition warning lamp & indicator lamp with LEDs, they wont work, and your alternator wont charge

    Have a fun day under there
    dash pod bulbs.jpg


    Dashboard plug wiring RHD 6dial.JPG
     
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  38. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Thank you once again that information is very comprehensive and exactly what I need, quite possibly saved me forking out for a new pcb too!

    Dash illumination bulbs came from Tickover and look to be correct.
     
    Last edited: 11 November 2021
  39. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    The values are printed on the bulb..
    If not correct, swap them
     
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  40. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    I was planning to drive the car to Ric Wood in the morning for a once over but I have a strange issue in that when the car is left to idle for long enough the temperature gauge will start to rise and climb towards the red, if I put the blower on the gauge drops visibly right away to between half way and two thirds, I get no hot air from the blower even with it set to max heat, I think this points to a possible air lock issue? Or heater matrix ? The other worry is quite a bit of white smoke on idle, I'm thinking it is condensation as it hasn't been driven often at all, there is no white sludge or water in the oil so hopefully not a cracked head or blown gasket. I'm a good 45 minutes drive from Ric to get him to do a compression test, might have to get myself a tester in the morning before I attempt to move it.
     
  41. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    I think its a dirty earth to the dashboard..
    when the earth is not good the Voltage regulator cannot bleed excess voltage away, so the gauges rise..
    the heater Matrix is in full circuit all the time, doesnt matter if you have the blower on or off, or where you have the flaps set, hot or cold.. The matrix is heated to the temperature of the engine coolant!
    granted if the matrix is in good condition, when yo switch the blower on, you are drawing heat away from the matrix, so in effect assisting engine cooling - but if youre not getting hot air the point is moot ..
    however - when you switch the blower on, it is quite a high draw component, so will take voltage away from other components..
    I used to get a similar effect on my fuel and temp gauges by switching on the lights - dash illumination also needs a good earth.. so the VR suffers again.. so i used the dimmer switch to deplete the voltage to the dash lamps, that allowed the earth capacity to deal with the rest !!
    separate earth strap now gets fitted to every dash i play with ..
    dash extra earth 2.JPG
     
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  42. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    I do like the plan of the separate earth strap, wish me luck as I bite the bullet and head to Ric Wood tomorrow, I have circa 30 quid of fuel that has to be enough for 20 miles :rolleyes: and I have recovery included in my Lancaster insurance policy, fingers crossed we make it!
     
  43. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Well that was a fun drive, temp gauge was trying to give me a heart attack climbing towards the red and oddly dropping to the middle when the car was sat idling at the lights! Ric is going to give the engine a good once over and see what we find.
     
  44. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    In expert hands, is he a one man band?
     
  45. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    i have a fuel gauge like that, reads full but when i get to half a tank it will read correct until i back off the throttle and use the gears to slow down, then it goes back to full
     
  46. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Expert hands for sure, seems to be more people working there than when I used to go back in the day
     
  47. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Had a call from Ric just before and the good news is they can't get it to overheat, it is the gauage that is suspect, circuit board at the back was seemingly broken. He did notice a bit of a leak from the oil filter when checking things over so has put some nice new oil in there and replaced the filter, some recommendations to discuss when I collect on Monday but nothing to worry about and he says although it isn't the prettiest it will only go up in value. The work will soon begin on the paintwork, I plan to get it to the stage where it is ready for final paint and then hand it to an expert,luckily not far from me there is a bloke recommended by the Glossop classics club who has done lots of good work for members at a fair price. I can get my final paint good from 5 yards but never quite body shop so best let them finish the job.
     
  48. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    Still trying to get you the details, he may be working away as he is in big demand, will update as soon as anything changes.
     
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  49. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    If you've got somewhere to paint it, l used to do mobile painting, for some beer tokens l can do your clear coat and i would use my trusty Devilbiss 40 year old gun, guaranteed glass finish.
     
  50. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    That is very kind of you, I have the garage which has has access all round the car, I do have a compressor but it's more air tool standard, need to get one with a larger tank capacity.
     
  51. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    I currently run a 3 1/2 hp 200 litre set up, it's 14cfm, which will run most equipment. I have a £200.00 water trap which has a 99.9999% moisture capture capacity, l use infra red heaters to dry the paint and always slow activator.
    BUT some of my best paint jobs have been achieved with a very small compressor and a good water trap, l did have fluorescent tubes on stands, but if I wasn't in my unit, l use a Makita LED floodlight so I can follow the fan and line.
     
  52. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Sounds like it might be better if I bring the car to you !
     
  53. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Glossop
    Drives:
    1982 2.8i
    We have dashlights!! And an interior light 20211122_184829.jpg 20211122_184845.jpg still no petrol reading with 45 quid in the tank mind, must be the sender
     
  54. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    21 July 2009
    Messages:
    14,233
    Location:
    (Sunny) Lanark (ML11) Scotland
    Drives:
    - Capri II '78 series V8 -
    OK, you mentioned earlier regarding false readings on the temp gauge.. same power source as the fuel gauge .. from the voltage regulator ..
    checks to do -
    Fuse 7 - furthest from the windscreen feeds the dash power .. make sure it is clean, dry, tight ..
    Battery fully charged ..
    Disconnect the red/white off the temp-sender at the engine ..
    Disconnect the Blue/Black off the fuel-sender at the tank ..
    Ensure that on both the above wires, the connectors are clean, no corrosion, tight.. That is the pin on each sender, and inside each connector on the end of the wires..

    at the tank - check the brown wire, the chassis earth connexion, at the tank, and the wire connector as above..
    in the boot (in front of the spare wheel well slightly off centre to the right), check the wire its connector and the self-tapper holding it in place..
    I use Copperslip on all these points to assist with a good electrical connexion.. then check the resistance/continuity between that self-tapper and the Brown wire connector at the tank..

    With both pins on the tank clean and shiny, measure the resistance between the 2 with a good meter.. you should read between 10 & 74 ohms .. 10Ohms is full tank, 74Ohms is empty tank ..
    if thats all working refit the earth connexion ..

    With a meter - switch the ignition to position 2 ignition lamp showing, engine not running -
    - Measure the voltage on the Red/White wire in the engine bay.. meter across the wire and the battery negative..
    it should read between 5-7volts, but may also be a slow pulse between 5&8.. this is acceptable..
    anything lower than 5 volt - fault, any steady reading over 7volt - fault ..
    - Now measure the voltage on the Blue/Black wire at the tank sender - readings should be near identical to the temp sender wire ..

    if the voltages are matched, and in range, the Voltage Regulator is good.. and so is the wiring it would seem.

    at this stage you do now need to investigate the senders ..

    Reasons the Voltage Regulator fails - chip burns up, or the connectors in the back of the dash are dirty, damp, loose, corroded.. loose self tapper retaining it in place and ensuring it is connected to the earth track ..
    dash pod connector - All connectors, pins & tabs clean?

    if the earth to the VR is not good, it will not control the voltage correctly and invariably the gauges climb..
    most noticeable when the dash illumination is triggered by switching on the lights ..
    - I always fit a separate earth strap to the dash pod.. use the self tapper holding the VR, and a length of wire out and connected under the nearest securing screw for the heater slider controls ..

    Dash lights for illumination .. spec is LLB504 / T10 / 3W .. do not fit 5W bulbs (LLB501).. this causes excess heat,smokes the colour shields, and can damage the dimmer switch ..
     
    TheRealExile likes this.
  55. TheRealExile

    TheRealExile Established Member Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    17 October 2021
    Messages:
    63
    Location:
    Glossop
    Drives:
    1982 2.8i
    thank you, when it was being checked for overheating by Ric he could not get the car to overheat despite what the gauge was telling him.

    He dug further and took the pod out and noticed that the circuit board had fried, he replaced that along with the voltage regulator, both the temperature guage and fuel gauge were also shot, luckily he carries a stock of those and they were replaced, whilst it was out he noticed I had already bought the dash bulbs ready to fit so replaced those whilst it was out.

    It seems to have cured everything other than the fuel gauge reading.

    Thank you for all the tips, I'm off to buy a new volt meter as mine has sadly turned its toes up after 35 years of service, bought it as an 11 year old to fix my rubber keyboard zx spectrum! In theory the new voltmeter might help me fix my old one :)
     

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