Discussion in 'Members Capris' started by KetsMcLets, 20 January 2015.
I can just press this off then? I'll give it a go later today tnx!
The bearing is replaced, just did what you said it was even in stock />
I'm going a little overboard with this project I think, I got me that 50" MKI 2.6 axle the other day and yesterdag also picked up a ZF LSD diff, just waiting for the bearingkit to arrive and going to weld on the stabilizer brackets before shotblasting and powdercoating the axle.
The boa engine is also in for ultrasound cleaning dut to be honest I'm still having second thoughts about the ca18det engine though!!
I'd take a decent BOA over a CA18DET every day...
A Capri should have a V6 yes I should agree
Got the engine and heads back from ultrasound last weekend..they were in there for 3(!!) Whole days. They cleaned up very nice though!
Plans have changed quite a bit in the last few months!
First the BOA project was stopped and everything wrapped in foil and is now on the shelf. Too much work and too many expensive components needed replacing. I decided this when I came across a very clean, cheap and low mileage BOB engine including everything else needed from the car. Not sure to run it on BOA ecu with a rpm window switch for the VIS or use the BOB ecu. I am reading things about the ecu finally been cracked but does anyone know who can do this?
Then the transmission guys called me today, that ZF differential I got earlier this year turned out to be shot, with even pins missing from the plates! So this is going back to the seller but now I'm looking for another diff. The quaife ATB looks good but not much good for drifting as it goes only to 80%. So that leaves the Tran-X and the 3J. Has anyone got any recommendations? Occasional track use, some drifting but mostly fast road :thumbup1:
Then I was looking at the brake side of things, as for us LHD guys there is no room for a conventional servo with a BOA/BOB engine. I'm going to install the electric brakebooster from the Scorpio.
Lots to do this winter haha
As far as I can tell the Tran-X and 3J are both ramp-type friction plate differentials, meaning they work in the same basic principle (same as a standard Capri 2.8i Special LSD). I can not speak for the quality of either though. Quaife usually makes good stuff and since they market the Tran-X I would feel confident using that one.
I would recommend low preload for street use but you can use flatter ramps to get it to lock "harder" for drifting.
Downside is that it wears though but I guess you won't drive the car that much. The Quaife ATB is virtually maintenance free but as you say, not ideal for drifting (needs both wheels on the ground to provide drive).
I was busy shopping around and was leaning towards the Tran-X one but the guy I bought it from agreed today to refund part of the money so it looks like I'm going to stick with the ZF (it's a 4-plate one, not the 2-plate 2.8i one, proper motorsport tool :lol: ). I think it has 45° ramps, not sure though..Going to tell them low preload yes, no gravel action for the Capri haha.
This way also I will also have my axle back sooner as the Capri is blocking the workshop with its ass up, and I tore my external wastegate off the manifold the other day so need the space :lol:
About the ECU, I have a TACK and the car is from 1998, can this be cracked to eliminate the autobox and PATS? I see topics about this on Ford Power but no one answers messages or gives any answers?? I even read something about doing all those things and putting in a sort of generic map for a BOB without EGR and open exhaust to gain some horses?
Severe work going on here. Re. LHD-
What about a bias box for brakes? And if the pedal feel isn't to your liking a dual remote servo?
If you look up Top boss performance, he knows a lot about the conversions. I know that it is possible to run the BOB with BOA ECU and loom, but if it can be done with VIS then Fitz will know. I am running BOA with BOA ECU, Loom. BOB cams and BOB MAF. Custom plenum.
Thanks for the replies all!
Well I have looked at the bias box and remote servo options but a bit too expensive atm, the axle and engine are taking up all the budget, especially the axle (allready 1700€ in on it :duh: ). Also I have a perfectly fine electric servo which came from the same car as my front and rear calipers so I hope this will fit.
I inspected the BOB wiring today (these are notoriously bad) and it just crackled and basicly desintegrated when I bent the loom!!! So I guess the BOA loom it's gonna be Does anyone know if it has to be a certain specific make/model rpm-switch or does it not matter?
Also today the clutch I ordered last week arrived, got me a Transit diesel one, but I did take the LUK one as those really cheap ones I don't trust really.
Testfitting on the 2.8i flywheel
With the clutch in I just couldn't resist to do a mockup with the gearbox, all seems to fit just fine :headbang::
I modified an alternator bracket too so the powersteering pump is eliminated, just need to make a slot for it so it slides to put it under tension. I have another bracket for when I should change my mind and want powersteering after all.
Here you can see it without the alternator on:
(yes I like pictures, it's nice to look at them in 10 years or so to see the Ghosts of Projects past :lol: )
Oh and if someone should have a clutch lever for sale for an MT75 V6 gearbox I would be very interested
IME the BOA looms also can be quite bad :-( But any year would work, as far as I know, but with minor adjustments.
I would run aftermarket management but that's just me. Still, the BOB should be quite easy to use with almost any aftermarket system.
Well actually that kinda depends on my previous question regarding the rpm switch. I have read any switch 'll do and I have also read it had to be one specific switch which, ofcourse, costs a few 100 quids. Then I'd rather invest that money in a Megasquirt!! Are there MS maps readily available for lets say a BOB without cats, 2.8i sports exhaust and EGR deleted? Cause live mapping is also expensive offcourse..
I have not seen any recent maps but the starting info should be there. The latest versions of Tuner Studio MS (the tuner software to use) have so nice autotune features that you will get a very good map with some driving and careful choice of parameters and settings.
Getting the MS to handle the variable intake should not be too hard.
Yes Gustaf now that you mention it I have heard of this autotune thing, it might be very interesting! I have this guy who always maps my cars and I get a reasonable discount but it's still not cheap. Also lots of support for this ECU.. Good tip!! I think for now I'm going to use the BOA ECU and loom without the VIS to get it up and running. Going to look into Megasquirt now, I also saw the microsquirt ECU on their site, a bit cheaper but most important smaller and looks like it might be mounted in the engine bay itsself (as in resistant to humidity)?
Is Microsquirt available for a BOB engine?
Its not engine specific... the microsquirt is similar to megasquirt just doesn't have as many features. A full blown all singing and dancing megasquirt will control nearly every parameter in great detail and run sequential.. the microsquirt won't. But may have everything you require. It's in no way plug n play. You gotta put together the system and loom.
What I meant was more like does it support the bob injectors, don't know if they're high or low impedance though?!
And autotune is also available for microsquirt I suppose?
Putting together the loom is what I want so I can do away with the 25 year old BOA loom .
Not looking for a full blown system but it should cope with ITB's as thats on the future wishlist haha
As far as I know the BOB has high impedance injectors (easily checked with a multimeter though).
Looking at the specs for the Microsquirt, my opinion is that it will handle a basic BOB install, it is probably even possible to control the variable intake. You can run the EDIS coil pack, the PWM idle valve and a wide band 02 sensor (using a separate wideband controller). It needs an external map-sensor unlike the regular Megasquirt.
The limits I see are the number of outputs. A small modification is needed in the harness to be able to use 3 ignition outputs (for wasted spark), OR it can be configured to run the EDIS coil through the EDIS module (then no modifications should be necessary).
You will have a tacho output and there are two (or one, if you don't run the EDIS module) generic outputs that can be used to control a relay (fan, perhaps variable intake).
The features I "miss" from a MS3 with MS3X is for example on-board logging (SD-card), more outputs (but not critical unless you run a turbo engine IMO) but most of these could be added at a later stage using the CAN-plugin.
So yes, I think it looks like a viable solution.
Thanks Gustaf, as usual knowledgeable info :thumbup1: A turbo is not going on, just looking for a basic install with maybe an option to change to ITB's later on, this should be possible according to the featureslist. I'm just going to use the EDIS too, Ford designed it to work reliable so I'll let 'm do that . And I'll need to control the VIS with the Microsquirt ECU ofcourse as that is the main reason for going aftermarket.
Does it always uses a MAP sensor or can I just use the MAF sensor from the BOA?
And I suppose this autotune thing is available too for microsquirt? I have an Innovate LC1 to aid the mapping..
Today I took the good ol' pinto out, tomorrow I'll see if the BOB fits with the current brakebooster but not expecting much really :tongue (2):
We would need to chech how the VIS solenoid works but I'm pretty sure it can be dealt with.
Autotune will work with Microsquirt too, it's more in the tuning software than in the ECU.
MAF can be used but MAP is easier to install and saves you room in the engine bay so I would go for that.
I believe it gets a vacuum feed from the engine which is stored in a canister and through a valve is deployed or released to the vacuummotor at the VIS-valve itsself? or something like that so I guess it's just a matter of sending a 12+V signal to that valve and taking it away? Still need to research this part though, worries for later haha.
I am still waiting for my axle to arrive so I'm still fiddling with the Capri in the meanwhile, then it needs to go in the waitingroom as the Escort goes first.
Decided to testfit engine
- gearlever is in the perfect position, was expecting to needing move it??!! It's absolutely perfect />
- tunnel doesn't seem to need any modification at all, gearbox doesn't protrude from bottomside neither and lines up pretty good with the center bearing
- radiator still fits, does need a push-type fan to replace the visco one..obviously. Ordered me a V6 one too seeing the outlets are wrong.
- current brake servo didn't fit, had to remove it halfway through the install. Tried the electric one but need to remove the Landy BMC first, no time today. But..I think the BMC will fit but the reservoir is another question. Maybe an aftermarket reservoir??
- Hood does NOT fully closes, I think its a matter of a centimeter, maybe one and half.. Going to see on google what others did, I have the 2.3 manual steering mounts and about 2 cm's between the oilpan and steeringrack. Maybe cut out the inner hood webbing but not keen on that. I tried lower support rubbers I had laying around before I testfitted (on another subframe) but this does not work as the original ones already have the threaded rod all the way at the bottom of the slot in the subframe..
Most probably I am going to make 2 spacers to go between the subframe and the body of the car. This will also allow me to line up the gearbox more exactly with the middle propshaft bearing I guess?? AND this way, maybe I won't have to buy new shocks because of the heavier engine /> />
Looks good in the bay though, pity it has to come back out :tongue (2):/>
I still need a clutch lever though />
I elongated the slots in the crossmember to lower my engine a bit, I'd recommend that.
Spacing the crossmember down will give you some issues with the suspension geometry, you will alter the angle of the TCA and combined with a lowered car you will reduce the already low camber compensation. You may well have a situation where the negative camber decreases as the suspension compresses and that will induce understeer.
If the VIS just needs an on/off signal it will be easy to handle.
I'm trying to recall if when I fitted mine, I reused the Capri 2.8i engine mounts rather than the Granada ones???
It should clear the bonnet easily.
@ Gustaf: is there room enough to elongate the slot? That'd be better yes combined with those lower rubbers!! Lower engine is also a bonus.. Also saves me buying adjustable TCA's as you mentioned. Back to the drawing board.
@ Big J: yes you have to use the capri mounts as the granada ones are totally different ☺. In your case the 2.8i ones because you have powersteering I suppose? In my case the 2.3 ones because I do not have the PAS. The 2.3 V6 Capri was not sold in the UK I think but over here quite common (at least they used to be ). Engine position should be the same I thought??
Are the 2.8 and 2.3 V6 mounts the same?
The 2.8i mounts are different than the 2.0 and 2.3 v6 mounts because the 2.8i has powersteering. The subframe is different too, the 2.0/2.3 have exact the same (manual) subframe as the pinto engined Capris
Yes, I had no problems adding something like 10 mm to the hole length, downwards. A bit tedious to do though...
Propshaft I got with the box doesn't fit appearently.. Both have the same rod protruding from the middle which to some people may work but not for me
So on the search for a propshaft that'll fit now..pffff
Have you managed to look at the brake booster and see how it might fit to the bulkhead yet?
Well I only took the servo unit itsself out as that's what was needed for testfitting the engine. I did offer the electric BMC up to the brackets but because the Landrover BMC was still on there did'nt get to see real good if it'd work. Attaching it seemed easy enough though, just needed some sort of an adapter plate made up or just all new brackets. I'm going to look at that later so no not really any help sorry..
I got someone I know not far from here who just put a BOB in his LHD Capri and he just moved the servo out of the way!! Going to see how he did this first hand as there is not much room but that would be the easiest solution though
There's a guy on FP in the NL who also moved his to one side by 50mm for his V8 conversion. Used the Scorpio servo with a 25mm master cylinder.
I was wondering.. if you move just the servo, wouldn't the rod slide under an angle into the servo? How would this effect on the long run?
Yesterday I got my axle back from the transmission shop. Long time waiting but finally got it back! Specs are: 50" MK1 2600 16 spline axle, ZF 4-plate diff freshly rebuilt, New bearings, Scorpio MK1 24v calipers and MK2 discs.
Now I could finaly get the Capri out of the garage and start on the Escort.. Couldn't fit the calipers though as it seems the MK1 wheelflange is a slightly different offset than on the MK3 axle. Problems for later, either machine down the caliper or space the disc outwards..
My old engine already found itsself a new home too :closedeyes:
From what I read the servo rod then fits on the outside of the pedal linkage rather than in the middle.
I have tried shifting the servo/booster over a bit and 10 mm or so generally seems to work with no modifications. More, and you need to move the rod but then you need to be very careful so the linkage can handle the forces. With something like a 5:1 pedal ratio, a pedal pressure of 100 kg (think panic situation) will give 500 kg on the linkage...
If possible, I would machine the caliper brackets so the brakes fit. Or I would make an offset axle bracket...
Can you reverse the disc without the caliper fouling the wheel?
Got someone locally with a bob in to drop by and it looks like my servo will fit after all..but thats for later..
Next problem: got my gearbox back the other day, its a diesel box with a v6 housing on. The tube that the bearing slides on seems to be too short, its the same length as a 4-cilinder box but it seems to be too short, see picture. It slides until the springs but if depressed it'll slide in deeper without the guide tube (dont know the word for it). Is this normal?
The V6 gearbox tube is longer than a 4 cylinder one (I shortened the tube on the V6 gearbox I converted for my Pinto).
So I think you need to find a longer one...or extend the one you have.
Does anyone know if the BOB and BOA injector seals are the same? www.motomobile.de says yes but I'd like this confirmed as BOA are topfeed and BOB sidefeed.
I was told it's a common problem that these leak so now that I have the rail out I want to replace them />
i got a one piece prop, from dave mc props
Soooo the engine is in..finally!! After waiting almost a year for the gearbox to be sorted!! I've elongated the subframe slots to lower the engine a bit (with other rubbers too) so it doesn't faul the bonnet anymore..should be fine now, hopefully.
I've noticed that the coil will be in the way for the upper radiator hose so I'm now considering remote mounting it as I already need to change the wiring with the BOA loom.. Anyone done this before?
The coil can be anywhere basically, as long as you make the wiring work. On the MkI 24v I was involved in, I think we had it on the fire wall.
Looked into it and that seems to be the best place for it yes No need to elongate the engineloom wires this way too I guess?
Now I've got another problem, I wanted to replace the injector rubbers because I was told they sometimes leak on the BOB and when whipping one out the cap came off <_< Never had this happen before, but I'm mostly used to working with topfeed injectors. Blèh!!
Anyone got one for sale?
Also I ordered a set from motomobil but it looks like they sent me BOA ones, they are all the same diameter and I'm pretty sure sidefeeds injectors have a large one on top and a smaller one below :boxedin:
Got on well today, the engine and box are now mounted and bolted up, used some spacers for the gearbox mount. The subframe was also slotted deeper and custom mounts used. Now I can measure the length of the propshaft. The stick hits the handbrake lever even though it sits dead center of the hole..
I have mounted the coil on the back of the engine but on the same bank so I wouldn't need to get longer HT leads, this way I also hope I won't have to elongate the BOA loom. This was not an easy operation as the waterlines are below and I wanted to make it possible so I can change the leads with the inlet in place. It just barely worked but all good now..
Then I sorted through my boxes of used waterlines and found something suitable, in fact had to make one from 2 different hoses. The bottom one I could just adapt the BOB hose easy enough.
I ordered a high power fan with thermostat too, waiting for that to finish the cooling system install.
The PAS pump got binned quite early on because I really prefer the manual steering, I cut the pas section of and angle slotted the original bracket and used some very short VW start/stop car belt. Should be fine
Yes the alternator is very close to the chassis rail but it should be enough, the enginemounts are new and slightly more rigid than original
Made some progress the other day, car now runs and sounds quite great I'm pleased to say! Had some little things that were wrong but now are fine!
I put some twisties under her, these will also get mounted to the bottom halfway and will run to each side and exit just before the rear wheels, kinda like the zoomies but a bit more subtle. Oh and 3 per side ofcourse instead of 4!
Still need to change the fuelpump as it only gives 2.5 bar instead of 3.2 bar, return isn't pinched so I suspect the pump. Going to hardwire it first too since this may cause insufficiënt current to the pump, battery is already in the boot so no big deal!
Oh yes, and what would be the best cooling-setup with an original 2.8i radiator? (this will get triple cored later on)
Mine uses a triple cored 2.8i rad with 14" Kenlowe fan. Works well without the need to modify the bodywork.
Thats exact the same as mine, fan is already wired in too. What kind of expansion tank do you have and how is everything routed?
Used the Granada expansion tank and a combination of the Granada and Capri hoses. The bottom hose from the rad tees off to the bottom inlet of the expansion tank with a smaller pipe running from the top of the tank to the water pump. Had to get that specially made by Roose. Make sure you use the non-sprung cap for the radiator and renew the through head pipe whilst you have good access.
Probably have some pictures of the set up if you need them.
Thats about how I was told to do it but my bottom radiator hose doesn't have a T in it for the lower expansion bottle hose sadly.. pictures are always bonus
I had to get my bottom hose made up but I suppose you could make one out of a Granada/Capri combo and a hose T connector.
I'll try to get some proper pics tomorrow off the computer as they're not on my iPad.
How did you get on with the brakes? Stick with the servo or fit the electric pump?
I stuck with the servo, had just enough room to wiggle it a bit to the side. I also moved the engine a bit to the other side while lowering it to get a bit extra room. Maybe later on I'll go with the electric servo plan but now I want to get it on the road for summer
I've driven it a bit late last summer and its soooo much fun . 1000kg+ZF diff+BOB = funfunfun
It was then put in hibernation..
I still have the coolant problem so only short distances done, I have to replace the sprung radiator cap for an unsprung one I'm told..I'll try that in a while..if I can find one that is!
Since I'm running the BOB on a BOA ecu I have no controll of the VIS system so serieusly down on torque. I also deleted the EGR system and have an open exhaust.
So I want to switch to a standalone ecu and was looking into the Microsquirt V3 system. I don't want all out power just the original horses at their best and maybe a few more, 220hp would be nice!
Has anyone done this or knows someone who has? I do not know if there's an I/O output for the VIS system, tried to register on the MS forum but my activation email never gets through aaargh!!
Google says absolutely nothing on this
I have not used the Microsquirt, but it has two medium current general purpose outputs. One of them can probably be used to control the VIS, at least if it is just an on/off signal. You will also have spare ignition outputs so probably one of them could be used.
I am more familiar with the MS3 code than the MS2 that Microsquirt runs on (as far as I know). But there is a code option for variable valve timing and I would setup the VIS using that feature - it will be the same type of thing. As long as it is on/off.
The Microsquirt is a very nice, compact package, with a better connector than the standard MS systems - meaning the biggest culprit is fixed. It does not have the same flexibility as a MS3 with MS3x but you may not need that.
On a basic(ish) BOB install I would use;
- the standard 36-1 trigger wheel and VR sensor
- three ignition outputs (requires a simpl modification to the harness) to run the coil without the EDIS module*
- two injector drives (three injectors on each)
- setup the standard PWM idle valve
- the standard CLT (coolant temp sensor)
- a DOHC AIT (air intake temp sensor)
- a standalone wideband O2 sensor connected to the Micosquirt
- external MAP-sensor
- fuel pump relay control
- tacho output
- one medium current output for the VIS
- one medium current output for cooling fan control
That should make it a pretty simple install that still would run the engine very nicely, when the mapping is correct.
* you can choose to just use one output and keep the EDIS module of you like, it will limit your control over timing but that's not a big thing
Thanks Gustaf, very interesting info as usual!!
Now...I've had contact with someone who works with yet another option: Efignition.nl At the same price of the Microsquirt I get the ecu with a prefabricated loom, I only have to crimp on the connectors themselves, which I have from the original BOB loom, but will seek new if available as they are sometimes rotten right upto the plug. He has done some BOA/BOB's before and knows them a bit. Since time is my biggest problem these days this is very interesting.
It also has sequential injection instead of bank-to-bank, bluetooth connection, launch control, fan control, full spark control, extra I/O outputs for the VIS, etc..
I'm liking this, he also can take over the laptop when mapping via tunerstudio and speaks dutch, my language. Microsquirt isn't very known in these parts so it's also a big plus to have someone locally to fall back to and knows the system.
I think I'm gonna give it a try..plenty of happy customers it seems too..
Their web is in Dutch it seems and that is beyond my language skills ;-) However, trying to dechiper what I can, it seems to be incredibly cheap with a nice connector and box.
My usual advise is that if you have a local(ish) tuner or person that can support your engine management system, that is usually more important than most of the specifications. Today, few engine management systems lack the basics needed to run an engine.
Something that can be very valuable is to get in touch with some other people who use the system. Ask specifically for long term stability (some systems have issues with loosing the tune if left without power for long periods).
I just finally ordered that Efignition system, been driving her all spring and it's a blast but really want the V.I.S. system sorted to unleash the extra horses. I took it to a friend who has a dyno and we had a run as I always do before major changes and it gave 192hp and 316Nm but the curve looks like shit! It's running dangerously lean @ around 4300rpm...remember this is on a BOA ecu so no V.I.S. control.
(There was also a much bigger fan in front but moved it for a picture )
Can't wait to see what the difference will be with the standalone ecu!
Yes, should be some room for improvement there I think!
The VIS might make it possible to get a really nice curve, will be interesting to see how you manage.
Got the ECU in today and as soon as the Chevy has its engine back in I'm gonna put the sucker in but first I need to arrange the VIS system, has anyone got a scematic of how the vacuumline need to run and what solenoid I need. I still have everything in a box but there's multiple solenoids that look alike but have little differences.
I've been searching but no pics or something on google
Found that one but there's no index to the numbers, gonna have a look in the workshop manual when I'm back in the garage..
Nevermind, I took ou the box and found out the guy I bought the engine from has all the hoses still attached to the vacuum canister and motor so it actually explained itsself haha..
I don't have much time these days so I decided to shell out and have the creator of the Efignition system come and install it himself...in my garage, great service so far as it was a 400 km round trip for him!! Great guy !!
The ECU and relais/fusebox will go behind the glovebox as it's a very thin assembly, all new plugs except for the intake and coolant temperature and the coils plug. These were reused BUT with new connectors inside so should be fine. It took about 7 hours to install.
Now I only need to reassemble the inlet, but first a new cam cover gasket as that was leaking badly. And then the BOB expansion tank and V.I.S. actuator/cannister and then it should fire right up and actually should run pretty good as he put in a BOB map with similar mods (EGR delete, big bore exhaust).
It now also uses a map sensor instead of the AFM and has a little PTU built in instead of the EDIS module. Also I have fan control from the ECU, launch control, bluetooth connection from the ECU, a working rev counter and if I'd like I can use a bluetooth tablet as a gauge cluster.
A bit overkill all but I like to be prepared for the future lol.
All in all not bad for a 280€ computer (cost me a lot more for the wiring ofcourse but if you have time and the know-how it's a very interesting piece of computery. I also wired in an Innovate LC-1 that I had laying around so I can use the Tuner studio software to make changes when needed.
By chance, it doesn't support drive by wire, does it?
I'm sort of in need of a cheap system that can do drive by wire for a project that is upcoming.
I checked for you and it is not capable of drive-by-wire..alas...
Thanks! I sort of expected that to be the case but it never hurts to ask.
I like that radiator, where did you get that from?
I got that through Ebay from a company in the Uk, it's advertised as a 2.8i but I had it custom made a bit. Like an extra 8mm takeoff on top for the BOB expansion tank air vent and no filler neck. So now the cooling circuit is exactly like in the Scorpio but just with a radiator that fits my Capri.
I also had them put the flanges on a bit offset so it sits a bit forward and doesn't hit my waterpump pulley lol. I have the 70mm model, on Ebay they only have the 50mm mdel but they can proviede the 70mm too
I have also got on to the electrical side, it fires right up but if I get throttle position below 10% it dies, so the idle valve isn't right.. And the wideband says 10.5 so that's either incorrect or much too rich. The watertemperature sensor reads minus 30 degrees..better get that winter coat out then I guess :lol:
I hate computers haha.. the guy who installed it is on a holiday now but I'm sure he'll straighten it out as soon as he gets back..
Sounds like its just too rich. More throttle + letting more air in, hence why it dies at less than 10%. Well, at least I think that'll be why
Sorted..the idle control valve was faulty, the dude had to test it when making the loom but got them mixed up. I switched the wires and put in a valve from a BOA I had laying around and voila...perfect idle..
AFR's are still around 10's so I think the LC-1 is broken as it appears to be running just fine and smells fine..
We found the running rich problem the other day, the vacuumhoses on the cannister for the VIS valve were the other way round. There is a one-way valve in there so it didn't work at all. So that quite shows how much effect the VIS valve has on the running of the engine (long vs. short runners)
It was then mapped on the street (fuelmap only) and yesterday I took it to a friend of mine who has a dyno and we further tweaked the fuelmap until the AFR's were right and then the ignition was also done. It gave me this very torquey engine that pulls and pulls and pulls from the line. Very satisfied!!
It made 229.3 hp and 313Nm of torque over a wide range, very streetable!! With his dyno settings in the "realistic" mode, on the average chiptuning dyno he calculated it would be more like 254hp
Was looking at your thread about engine maps over at fordpower just yesterday. Looks like a nice set of numbers. Going to be mapping my BOA over the winter so its handy to know what to aim for with the info from the other thread and your info here
I bet that is a Capri that's really rewarding to drive.
Now, image what 1 bar of boost would do? ;-)
Nah, there's a clear merit for a nice n/a engine.
It drives very nice yes, Gustaf.. lots of torque through all the revs to keep the ZF diff busy haha. I would LOVE a twinturbo on this but the government doesn't agree with me..hell they've just implemented some bullshit new rules like no adding cilinders, not more than 20% power increase and no change of fuel delivery system (inj<->carb) and I violate ALL of these but it's officially the engine on the papers so we'll have to wait and see...
I was contemplating that if they start to wine about it not being a carb engine anymore I could slap on some Jenvey's with a big airfilter on top so it looks a lot like carbs but that way I'm afraid I will loose al that nice midrange torque . Also it's not a guarantee that'll work so its still a 2000€ guess
Glad to be of help, if you want my .MSQ file just send me a message and I'll get it to you..
But remember a BOB is a totally different inlet style so the map would be way off for a BOA
Here some vids from the dyno sessions, no videos from the final runs because low battery
Soooooo...I have these Granada Cossie calipers up front with caprisport brackets and ST170 300mm discs, in the rear also Granada Cossie calipers with 257 vented discs topped up with a Landrover BMC. It brakes quite well so I'm happy with it, but this is absolutely illegal here in Belgium . Also oldtimers were exempt from MOT so his was not a big issue but now there are new rules and next year I'll have to get it MOT'd. I can change back to the standard system and swap it back after the MOT or I can look for something a bit durable..
Question: in comparison to my existing (a bit overkill for street use, I admit) setup how would these Hi-spec 245mm brakes hold up, also I would change back to the original drum rears (the big version, very late model Capri). It's for fast street use only, some local shenannigans nothing out of control. Haven't done a trackday so far and not going to probably but never say never.
These don't use a bracket to mount them and are the same diameter as original so would pass MOT, and as a bonus I can fit my original, but widened, 13" steel wheels.
Engine's a 24v BOB with ITB's going on this spring so will be around 260bhp, fast road use so don't really need to worry about brake fading too..
Any sharing of experiences would be greatly appreciated!!!
Is it the bracket that makes the granada caliper setup illegal?
Well, actually there are no alterations whatsoever allowed to the brake system, the only thing we can do really is pads, grooved discs and braided lines ( the last only legal since 2 years now). But the MOT is a government operated business and the guys only have basic knowledge and know what they see on their computer, like disc diameter. If they see brackets that's an automatic fail as no average car has this standard..
So if these Hi-spec calipers also brake fantastic I would be inclined to change my whole setup..but I still have a year time but I'm wondering...
For the rears, maybe the weld on brackets would make the setup more original looking to the untrained eyes. And the fronts maybe something could also be done similar? Old Granada callipers don't stand out as much as shiny polished hi spec ones I'm sure. And do you really want to swap stuff after the mot incase you have an accident and the car is inspected at all?
The rears would definately not pass as they see the size of the drums on their pc so know the discs aren't original. But do I really need discs on the back, I don't think so..they are on there because I had the calipers from the Granada I stripped and took a challenge in fitting them lol, didn't cost me much.
The shiny calipers is a good point but when I buy new ones they are also shiny. It's just they don't know what caliper is supposed to be on there, they only can check diameter. The Hi-spec logo on the front will have to go yes, although I don't think it will be visible with the steel wheels on.
I have the whole HiSpec 283mm brake kit including LR m/c that I took off mine. Just couldn’t get the right pedal feel with it.
I ended up going back to stock 2.8i discs and drums but used the Princess 4 pots which fit in the original position and wouldn’t be noticed by your MOT guys. Brakes are as good as they’ve ever been.
If I was keeping the car I’d go for the dual master cylinder set up and ditch the servo.
Aren't you supposed to use the original Capri bmc with the Hi-spec kit though?? I think the Landrover bmc is way too big for those brakes hence the pedal feel?
Princess is also something I've heard about yes, another option.
But what I really want to know is how good the Hi-spec/Princess calipers are, I don't mind losing some braking power as it's a bit overkill now but it should still be good enough to feel comfortable opening up those throttle bodies
My first "improved" brake setup was Volvo 240 4-pot calipers, MkII RS2000 GP4 ("same" as Capri 2.8i) vented discs and standard 9" drums rear. I think that was pretty much OK with around 200 bhp in the Pinto. I would say Princess 4-pots or Granada MkII 2.8i front calipers would be roughly similar and something I would prefer over a small HiSpec caliper.
For the rears, the wider 9" drums from a 2.8i would work great on the road.
Use a decent fast road pad and it will be fine for street use, and fly under your MOT radar.
Okay, very tempted to try those princess calipers..next year somewhere. So that'd mean I also need to go back to the original BMC I suppose, so I won't be installing the electric Granada for now.. Or maybe install it so I can sell the whole system as a kit? We'll see..
I've got other problems at hand ATM..No matter what I did the BOB would overheat after a while, I got a big alu radiator, big powerfull electric fan, my expansion reservoir is as high as can be in the engine bay but nothing works. But 2 months ago I found water in my oil..lots of it and turned to syrup so am suspecting head gasket problems..
Soo last week got me another engine to put in the car, for 100 euros..then when I have some time next year I can open the broken engine up to see what's wrong.
I also got me some ITB manifolds a while ago and Jenvey levers and ancilleries, now just need get the bodies themselves before the Brexit lol.
Now to get that lift freed up in my garage!!
2 years ago again, wow!
I've got them throttle bodies installed a while ago, along with some Audi coils but I'm now waiting for my tuner to have it mapped and wired in.. They look damn good but I espacially can't wait until I can HEAR them. I'm also doubting on fitting some piper cams too first, Ideally I'd need to up the CR too but that will make it not ideal for a streetcar I'm afraid.
I have also welded up some holes and am going to repaint it, but this time satin antracite grey instead of satin black. Oh and I've had the oem wheels widened and the original brake system re-installed for MOT reasons.. Also fitted a powersteering rack and hydroboost some time ago, as well as some RS3100 struts with the thick damper and vented discs and deleted the wiper and spay holes, bumper holes and gascap flapper thingy..
Time and funds are scattered as I've got the Sil80 in the bodyshop to get that midnight purple vibe going and I just bought a '68 Dnepr sidecar motorcycle too lol.
im loving the LS bands
Some lovely details..
fuel filler I love..
Paint a bit dull ..
dont like 24V cosworths.. do like your 'carburation' ..
so exactly how you getting this legal in Belgium ?'
The trumpets are wicked! In a good way...
Do they clear the bonnet?
This is a complement, Mel Gibson should be driving your car in search of fuel and murderers.
bring on the trumpets
No they do not clear lol, and I wanted it this way so I can hear them sing in all their glory with my windows down! Also an attempt to keep some low down torque, but mainly the soundtrack .
I'm modifying this spare bonnet for summer shenanigans and shows, and also have an original one, along with an oval airfilter for MOT and stealthy stuff..
edit: I'm hoping to pass MOT, as they are notoriously evil here in Belgium. But I have some advantages and tricks up my sleeve and have good hope! In a few months I hope to give it a shot..
If it should fail, I have a trailer and a race track in my backyard (circuit Zolder) so there's always a plan B, but I'd rather drive it on the streets too.. Or just sell it and get on with that MK1.5 I bought last year..
I don't suppose you have a spare throttle cable bracket for the bob engine?
cannot believe you pinned your braking hopes on those 3litre hubs.. so expensive for no spares or easy spares gain !!
I got the complete struts inc. hubs for free so why not use it...the calipers fit so... But remember its for MOT purpose mostly, afterward I can re-install my 300mm front and 256mm reardiscs that I've used satisfactory for the last years.
@classiccapri : pm me, I have enough bob parts lying around the garage.
so you get your MoT and legal with the car setup a particular way.. You then change it for fun on the road the way you want it to be ..
What happens in the event of an accident, or if you're on a show and on the way home and get stopped, or have an accident, and the car is not as tested?
It would have to be a very seriously accident and reasonable suspicion that it was caused by those parts but it could be bad yes..but that's how we practice the hobby over here... It's either that or keep it fairly stock.
The coppers don't really know anything from cars here, but if they suspect anything they can escort you to an mot-station and if it fails you get a fine.. only during office-hours tho
and your insurance cover?
over here there is an element of disclosure required where modifications are listed so the insurance folk know what they are underwriting..
Our MoT system is good enough (sic) that providing you present a car in safe order and the inspector reckons its safe, then all is good..
but if involved in an accident and the police find a fault, and the MoT isnt in compliance, and the insurance doesnt fit .. Cars get crushed !!
and thats in the UK where I believe our system is one of the most lax in keeping things 'correct' ..
methinks you would be in a lot of trouble trying to bend rules where even we do not have to..
I have the engine in the paperwork, which is a very big deal here in Belgium..very rare!
The insurance helped me put it on the paperwork so they know about it.
Its things like better brakes that are a big no-no over here (figure that) and if they suffice for me I'll keep the original ones on there, but if not I convert back to the big brakes. Also I cant cut in my hood here for some reason, so thats why I have another one for MoT.
I also installed rear seatbelts, as they are not standard but I want them for my daughter in the back to be safe.
I can give much more details on the kafkaesque belgian car laws if you'd like but I'd suggest we start another topic on this in the appropriate subforum
Can't even paint the wheels on my youngest son's car, insurance company photographed the car from all angles and the interior when they fitted the black box, big brother really is watching him!!!
I took it for a MOT on Wednesday and he was telling me not to speed, he'll loose points on his overall score.
Just a idea, but I ran the short jenvey trumpets on my 24v cosworth in a Capri and there cleared the bonnet no problems. Saves cutting up a good bonnet and keeps likes looking standard.
I use to get 3 miles to gallon when on full chat one of the reasons they came off as it would cost a small fortune to run, also a absolute pig when cold
i can understand about the better brakes issue, if you improve braking then 1. you will be tempted to drive faster, 2. if you improve your braking then you can stop quicker, but will the car behind
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