Elliots Capri.....The epic!

Discussion in 'Members Capris' started by Elliot, 17 December 2009.

  1. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Welcome to my epic thread. The latest updates from 2009 begine at page 11. From page 7-11 you will see pictures are missing due to the forum hacks we had a year ago.

    Nov 13th 2003

    All a little too quiet round here lately so heres a load of boring stuff for you all to read......The 18 wheels I bought from Ebay (risky yes I know) are nearly rebuilt. I took them down to be tested for 'out of round' and 3 of the wheels were fairly pants so I had all four wheels re-rolled to get them better than new. I stripped all 4 wheels apart as they are 3 piece, had the outer rim parts sent to the anodisers to have the anodising removed, and then all the individual parts have been mirror polished. They couldnt do the holes in the fingers of the spokes so I'll have to either paint them silver or black or something. Spent the whole day yesterday reassembling the wheels and then half of today running silicon to seal them up where they join.The tyres were ordered a few weeks ago and are waiting to be fitted, which will be after the weekend as I figure that should be enough time for the silicon to go off proiperly before putting it under pressure.I have also been spending a lot of time on the X pack kit which arrived from the UK about 3 weeks ago. I am making the front wings 'bolt on' so they can easily be removed if needed later. I've never fitted an X pack before and if anyone else is thinking of doing one, be prepared for it to take a ferking long time..... I have been working on 1 wing for the past 3 weeks on and off and I am only about half way through that. I have welded a new mating flange down the whole front edge where the front panel normally meets the wing, I cut about an inch off the front panel to get the x pack wing to sit just right. It's been a long pain in the a** of a job, but the fit looks factory 'to me anyway'. The headlamp bowl panel was attacked by metal worm on the top outer edges, so I cut the whole outer corner and the top part where the front wing is welded on to it and replaced the whole area with new metal.Today I was trying to line up the front wing and door. The door has been out of line for donkeys so I had to get that right first. Both my doors are the same, I dont know if all capris suffer this but the bottom sits outwards as if the door was twisted in at the top? maybe from all the opening and closing over the years? Only way to fix it is to reposition the hinge on the door. So....removed the door from the car and drove out the bottom hinge pin which decided to fall into 3 pieces just to give me something else to worry about. Theyre only roll pins, but not a usually stocked size so they are on special order, hopefully have new ones next week, for now, I have a long bolt in there just the right size as a temporary thing. I ground the hinge plate off the door and rewelded it back on about 4 mm further back so that the bottom of the door will sit closer to the body of the car. test fitted and it all lines up very nicely now, better than it ever did before. Probably better than when it left the factory?Ok so that now done, the wing wont line up perfectly with the door without being held in place by clamps, so next task is to make a metal panel to fit under the wing to hold it in position and bolt that to the a panel and seal off the door shut at the same time........Anyone else fitted an x pack ??
     
  2. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Nov 18th 2003


    Just a quick update......Managed to manufacture a support plate for the rear of the front wing to hold it in shape and keep all the lines with the door nice and even.And today after weeks of anticipation I finally got the rubber wrapped round my new wheels. I just had time tonight to position 1 of them under the front x pack wing to see how it will look. here are a couple o pics for you. the wheel is only resting under the arch as they will not fit onto the capri hubs. I am currently intending on fitting a new front end from a late model EA Falcon which has a different type of strut set-up where the pivot point is nearer the centre of the wheel when looking from above. the idea of using this is to help the massive size of the 18" diameter wheels to fit under the arches and be able to rotate without hitting anything (fingers crossed at this point).the line of screws you see running down the rear edge of the wing is to hold the wing to the fabricated metal plate underneath. I will fibreglass the plate to the wing from the underside and then fill the holes once the screws are taken out.

    [​IMG]

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  3. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Nov 23rd 2003

    Couple more pictures here....Not got a lot done this week due to job commitments and other stuff. Managed to get some work done removing the old underseal from the front section of the inner wing and headlight panel today. It's a horrible time consuming job, but it needs to be done so I can see any rust that may need attacking. Luckily there is only 1 rusty section which you can see in the first pic. I've not cut it out today, but at least I now know where it is so I can just remove the paint and get to it when I get time.

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    Above picture shows the inner wing taken back to bare metal and being coated in por15 metal prep to convert any remaining rust and prepare the metal for paint. You can also see the new fabricated end panel to meet up with the x pack wing.

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    2 coats of por15black and then a good old fashioned helping of bitumen

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    Headlight panel showing repaired section. I still have to weld a small piece in to ciontinue the wing top section to meet with the top of the headlight bowl, no time today, so a job for later on.

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    Black and full of gunk, hopefully it'll survive a few more years now.
    Elliot
     
  4. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2003 12:20 pm Post subject: another week gone

    No pictures this week I'm afraid.I finally finished drilling all the holes for the new bolts to mount the new fibreglass wing.The new metal reinforcement panel is now fibreglassed to the wing and the screws holding it from the outside have been filled and sanded back.We've had a few hot days this week too which has nicely melted some of the underseal which I put on..... That will teach me to use English underseal instead of Australian.....Today I removed cut, grind, drilled, hammered and whacked a few times the other front wing. I was going to save it as it looked nearly mint from the outside, but after a bit of an inspection I decided to scrap it as it was rotten underneath. Shame that....oh well.Good news though is that the A post is good and clean and the top edge will only need a little patching to make it a1. The headlight panel looks in similar condition as the other side so I will have to cut and patch that to match. Hopefully both wings will be done in the next few weeks and I will be able to offer up the x pack valance and get some paint thrown on her again.Elliot
     
  5. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2004 8:01 pm Post subject: ..........


    Just another quick update......No pics this time again. We've had a real busy time here since december what with Christmas, work and other home projects all on the go at the same time not to mention running the online shop in spare time too, so the capri hasnt got much further than last time, though I have been working bit by bit on the suspension conversion.The drivers side wing is now very roughly in position. I have yet made any of the extra panels which are needed to make it fit as good as the other side, but I'm planning on getting that done next.suspensionwise.......I need to fit an 8mm spacer for the frotn wheels to have clearance with the struts. None of the spacers available from the performance shops are any good so I am having some made from stock bar. I've also had no luck tracking down longer wheel studs so they are also being made up from EN26 to satusfy the engineer.The bottom track arm will have to be shortened and the inner tca bush is too wide so I have re-machined some poly bushes this week so that they will fit the capri crossmember.The engineer is not allowing me to weld the track arm so I am having to make up a new inner end and them bolting that to the original EB unit and he's happy with that....go figure ???As the track arm is going to be shorter, so are all the other suspension parts......anti roll bar.....strut wishbones and bottom strut bar. the engineer has asked that I have each part from the EB harness tested by a metallurgist so that the new are made to the same spec.......bit over the top if you ask me, but hopefully | will get that underway next week.Bout all for now.........
     
  6. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    March 9th 2004

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    Bout time I did an update. Well here is the front end of an Ozzy Falcon EB. Picture was taken some time ago when I first picked it up in the back of the Magna Wagon (what a lovely car....not).I first wanted to see if I could fit the entire frame in between the capri frame but alas the EB is a little too wide. I could have cut and shut it but then the steering rack would have been too wide and it was looking like one nightmare after another.....heheAnyways. So far I have this week mounted up the lower track control arm onto the car with the new inner end remanufactered by yours truly. It is only tack welded together right now as I may still have to shorten it slightly.You can see in the pic that the steering rack sits to the rear of the crossmember, whereas the capri rack sits in front. Not a major problem you might think (well I thought that anyway), but with the suspension leg trial fitted to the car, the track rod end fouls the outer tca to front chassis bar, so this week I have mostly been playing with an oxy torch reshaping the bar into an S to overcome said problem. It actually worked out quite well becuase in bending it I have also shortened it and it looks like it will be exactly the same length as the pivot points on the TCA (you lost yet !!). They need to be the same length to get the geometry working.Ok, so this week I will go see my engineer and see what he thinks of me heating and bending this bar. I allowed it to cool naturally to avoid hardening up any carbon that might be in the material. The bar is not that big in diameter so I may end up making new ones from some bigger diameter stuff, but we'll see what the engineer says (fingers crossed all over the place).Next problem is going to be hooking up the steering rack to the track rods. The capri rack has a Metric fine M12 thread and the EB rack rod has an M16 fine. The capri rack is also way too short too so that works fine, all I have to do is make up a length of bar with the right thread on each end and that'll fix that. (Damn ......metric fine taps and dies are 5 times more expensive than anything else I found out this week too...bugger!!).I've got a few days off work now, so I'm gonna try get the other front wing fitted up.That's all for nowElliotP.S. Is anyone actually reading this ??
     
  7. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2004 12:07 am Post subject: .........


    Saw the engineer this week and he was happy with everything so far. He suggested I could 'web' the bends in the tca to chassis bar. That's no major drama so I can do that. I want to use the existing front sway bar mountings on the Capri for the bar front mounting. the engineer suggested using U section steel 5mm thick !! That's way over the top and very bloody heavy. I picked up a metre of it and it is seriously over the top. it's 120mm x 65mm U section. I will cut that back to 120 x 25 I think, at least that will reduce the weight a fair bit. Then I can make some bush mountings and weld them to it to take the front bar bushes.I have also picked up a length of 7/8" hex bar to make up a steering rack extension and convertor to fit to the EB track control arm. I am going to stay back late after work on Monday and make them up. Will post a pic on here as soon as they're done and ready to go.Hopefully get the front U section cut and the bush mountings made and tacked together this week too, so I'll post more pics of that too.I've been working on the fitting of the drivers side front wing this week. The fit of the original X pack arch is a real 'w*nker', I've had to stretch the damn thing in almost every direction to get it to fit nicely. Hopefully, it will eventually get a memory of it's new shape in time and wont be under so much stress.Elliot
     
  8. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2004 8:00 am

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    Couple o pictures here I took today. First one just showing a bit o body filler So that the x pack wing has a nice tidy seam against the front panel.

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    Another picture from the side with the first coat of por15. The finish isn't perfect, but I intend on using some high build primer when I get to paint stage so that will hide the por15 nicely. You can also see all the extra metal I have welded in to make the front wings 'bolt on'.Elliot
     
  9. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2004 10:00 am

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    Not a very good pic, getting dark outside. Just a quick pic to show 2 days work with bodyfiller. Beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel as far as making these wings bolt on instead of fibreglassed to the car.Elliot
     
  10. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sat Apr 03, 2004 9:21 am

    Decided to get the drivers door fitting better today so that i can line up the rear edge of the new front wing. I removed the door from the car(what a pain in the a** of a job that is to get at the top hinge nuts). Anyway, the original hinges were quite slack on the hinge pins so I first tried removing the old pins and fitting new ones but they were still too sloppy for my liking. I remember buying some new gen ford hinges years ago and after searching through boxes of capri cr*p eventually found them still in the original ford packaging....sorted !The bottom of the door was not lining up very well with the outer sill so I the new one was welded to pull the bottom of the door closer to the car.

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    Pic here shows the bottom hinge cut off ready to offer up the new one.P.S. That's copper slip on the 'A' panel not rust !

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    Second pic here showing the new hinges welded on with my trusty old mig.News on the front suspension.....front TCA's have been welded and passed by the engineer, just got to get them heat treated and x ray'd...Elliot
     
  11. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2004 10:45 pm

    Another quick update..Track control arms have been visually passed by the engineer, they were heat treated last week to have any stresses removed and hopefully will be x-ray'd this coming week.The drivers side front wing is nealry finished, I have made up the new support panel which fits underneath to hold the shape to match the door profile and fibreglassed that to the wing. All that is left is some final fillering and shaping.About 2 years ago, when I replaced the carpet in the car, I discovered a hole about the size of a tennis ball in the front inner section of the bulkhead, I think this must have occured due to a leaking heater which I also fixed. Not wanting to removed the whole interior at the time to protect it from welding and grinding sparks etc, it was left (yes I know that was a bad idea).So yesterday, the interior was removed to see how muich worse the rust was. And the hole is about the same, unfortunately, the corner where the bulkhead meets the floor and inner sill are also looking worse for wear as is the front section of the inner sill (no surprises there). I'll post some pics when I get time as it's quite an impressive amount of rust.99.9% of capris go rotten in this area, so I'll post a load of pics as I fix it up so maybe it will help other people to see whats involved.Elliot
     
  12. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2004 8:15 am

    With all the metal work I use the POR15 range of products, including the metal prep/etch/rust convertor, topcoated with 2 coats of POR15 Black topcoat and then about 1/4 inch layer of underseal.The underseal is what I assume you are referring to as the black gunge. There are a few manufacturers that make a similar product. They are bitumen based and can be built up into a thick layer to protect against moisture, water and stone chips. Shop around if you are going to use some as some of them dry harder than others. Some wil, stay permanently sticky and wet more than others and it can be a pain in the a**. I find ones that develop a slightly harder outer crust after about a days drying time to be the best.Yes, I have made new metal panels to patch the headlamps. The ones on this car were pretty good compared to some I've seen. The way I attack it is to grab an angle grinder, cut out 'ALL' the rusty metal (you have to be bold here), then I cut up a sheet of gasket material or you could use card, and bend it into shape to form a template (sometimes this takes 2 or 3 attemts to get it right). Then the card is layed out flat and the shape marked onto a sheet of steel stock and cut out with the grinder once again. I then bend it into shape with a vice and a selection of large hammers and swearing a bit helps too. And that's about it. With panels like this that are out of sight, you dont have to do a NASA job of it, as long as it does what it says on the packet and keeps the water out, that's good enough for me...Elliot
     
  13. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Wed Apr 21, 2004 10:15 am

    Very slowly this week.The new TCA's are at the X-ray'ers at the moment and I have been promised they will be done in the next day or so....Not had any other time in the past week to do anymore as I was doing some work on our house instead.....Not really the owner, Cerberus racing is jointly run by myself and Nick Peat.Elliot
     
  14. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2004 2:04 am


    Yes, the laws here are slightly more strict.For all the mods I'm doing to fit suspension from another car, all the work has to be signed off by a professional vehicle engineer. Obviously if the engineer has to put his name to something and then I managed to kill myself because a part failed he could find himself in court. The engineer I am using is just covering himself so at least if the worst did happen, he has evidence to prove that he did his job properly and legally.Also nice to have peace of mind for myself to know that it's all tickety boo.Got the X-rays back now and all looking good. Also got new adjustable height struts made from Bilstein parts. Will have to make up some parts for the top end of the struts to make them fit to the Capri inner wing tops.Elliot
     
  15. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sat May 08, 2004 9:05 am


    Update time againNot had really any work done on the car over the past few weeks, the weather here in melbourne has turned very wet and there's not really been even a single days break from it. Finally today, I got a chance to get back out there.

    [​IMG]

    Ok, starting to look a little better now with some of the suspension parts fitted up. The major headache was the bottom arms which you can see here in blue. If you've read all the past posts, youll see the hassle I've had getting these to this stage. I've changed the size of the inner TCA bolt to 14mm which is nearly double what the standard capri ones are.You can see I've been playing with my grinder again. Most of the inner wing strut strengthening has now been cut away, basically because everything will be in the way of the top wishbones. I will be cutting away a whole lot more metal in that area, in fact the whole top section of the inner wing because I want a more movement for the shocks and struts, so I will have to make up a box section and go as high as possible without hitting the bonnet.....

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    Steering locked out and theres still a whole 5mm clearance there !!! Try that with standard capri legs and 18" wheels !!

    Ok, front spoiler time ! The X pack spoiler that came through the post was a shocker. It looks cr*p, its about 2 inches too short and the wrong shape. So I made a side profile template and had a friend of mine bend up a 1.5 metre length of steel. Here it is in the pic. I will now have to cut that in half and weld it back together to suit the slight angle which the capri's have then I will make up some side brackets and have a grinder session again to make it look the nads.
     
  16. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Thu May 13, 2004 10:56 am


    Have cut out almost a square foot section of the top of the far side inner wing this week and measured for a new top plate which I have now had laser cut from 4mm steel plate. More to follow on that next week.Ive cut that long section of bent steel for the front spoiler in half, made up some mating sections so that they can bolt to the bottom section of each of the front wings and tacked the whole thing back together again down the centre..

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    Bit dark outside, but you can see my progress so far, looking pretty good I reckon.Got to cut all the long rectangular holes for radiator air and work out more mounting/bolt positions to hold it in place securely.
     
  17. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Thu May 20, 2004 7:35 am


    I did an engineering apprenticeship with Thames water and worked for thames for about ten years as a mechanical fitter. When I moved to Oz three years ago I kind of ended up somehow doing a lot of boilermaking work so have greatly improved my welding / sheet metal skills which goes very well with the work I do on my car.Elliot
     
  18. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2004 12:57 am


    yes, ive welded up a new inner wing section for the drivers side and made 1st attempt top wishbone. Unfortunately, working dimesnsions out on paper in theory dont always work the same in practice once made and fitted to the car. With the new metal in place, and the front wheel set a few degrees negative camber at rest ride height, with the suspension lowered, the camber moves slightly to positive, which would be disasterous for handling on cornering.This means that the inner pivot point on the top wishbone must be too high and I will need to locate it slightly lower, no major problem, but in doing that I will also now need to make a longer wishbone.Will post up some pics when I get time.Elliot
     
  19. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2004 9:49 am

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    Picture here of the new modified and highly cut down version of the EB top wishbone. It was a real cut and shut job and I welded it to death. it's probably the strongest part of the car now...heheLots more progress coming soon when I post pics of the new inner wings I'm making with a complete new internal fabricated suspension frame.Elliot
     
  20. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2004 8:30 pm


    Project was set back about a week last night when I found a small rust spot in one of the most common hard to reach areas on the capri. The section under the bonnet towards the rear of the inner wing at the top near where it meets the bulkhead. This is a pretty common area where 99% of capris suffer as it's a sandwich of about 3 or 4 sheets of steel. It's a pr**k of a job to fix up properly, so I'll post a series of pics to show the process of replacing the metal. As usual it's the 'Elliot goes over the top method'.Elliot
     
  21. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2004 10:45 am


    Ok, here we go.

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    First picture was taken once all the bad metal was cut away. Here's where most people panic. The problem is that you need to try and remove as minimal amount of the original metal as possible but at the same time make sure that 'ALL' the rusty metal is cut out. The problem with the area here is that it is made up of 4 separate panels, 3 of which are clamped together in a sandwich and spot welded at the factory. It is only a matter of time before moisture finds its way into the area between the 3 sheets and attacks the metal.Ok, so once all the rusty metal is cut away, I treat the metal with POR15 metal ready to remove any further traces of rust, it also etches the metal and lays down a thin layer of zinc phosphate.

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    As with all the patch up jobs I do, I first make a template with card which you can cut and bend into shape to make sure it will fit. Once happy with that, I mark a line around the edge onto sheet steel and cut it out. Again I treat the new piece with POR15

    The first panel is positioned and clamped in place and spot welded and seam stitched as required. I ground the welds back flush, wire brush the area, reapply POR15 to both sides of all surrounding panels, then spray on high zinc content paint(weld through-able).

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    Picture taken tonight of progress so far, showing 2nd plate welded into position. I use a joggler to make a seam around all joining edges to produce a flush fit. This isnt really required in this case as it wont be visible, but I do it anyway.Again wire brush, POR15 and zinc paint on the inside ready for the next plate and black etch primer on the outside.Just got the last plate to make and weld in. Hopefully post pics tomorrow....Elliot
     
  22. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 10:34 am


    I doubt anyone would want to pay me for the hours I'd spend doing the simplest job...everything seams to take me three times too long...Anyhoo, I've just come in from the garage with the camera so here the current state of affairs......

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    At last, after a lot of heart ache, burnt arms, weld suntan and about 5 kilos of extra steel, the inner wing is complete and the suspension can now be fitted up.

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    All the metal was welded up from 25mm thick wall RHS and the top plate from 4mm mild steel. there is also a section of 25 x 3 flat bar rolled to help strengthen the top plate around the spring top mounting area.

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    View from under the bonnet showing the raised new top plate doesnt look too out of place. Please ignore my dodgy welding along the front edge, I was having a shaking hands, too much beer kinda day.I have also cut off the original metal that supports the outer wings and replaced it with thick wall RHS. Hopefully this will add a lot of strength along the whole length of the inner wing top section.
     
  23. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 10:01 am


    Have finished the inner wing mods on the other side of the car (near side).There is a little bit of rust removal to do on the footwell, but nothing major.Today, the engine and gearbox was hoisted out of the car with the aid of a small crane and the hired hands of Kevin Kahn (thanks great mate).Have ordered 20 metres of stainless steel 3/16" pipe to make new brake lines for the whole car. They are being sent in from the U.S. hope they dont take forever to arrive.....I now have about 3 weeks to get the entire engine bay back to bare metal, cut any rust and prime the whole bay. The car will then be inspected by me engineer for approval of V8 fitment and to go over any problems he has with my mods and/or suspension swap.Elliot
     
  24. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Aug 29, 2004 8:48 pm


    Can do mate, all the suspension has been removed again from the car so I can rebuild the inside of the engine bay without all the bolts etc sticking through and getting in the way. Not much to see in the engine bay either, it's just a oily, greesy mess. Found some rust to cut out too, so I'll post some pics of that if I get time....Elliot
     
  25. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Tue Sep 28, 2004 11:13 am


    Jeez, seams like a lifetime since I last updated this thread. Well I've been busy with the car, the engine and gearbox have now been removed and are up for sale if anyone in Oz wants it. The engine bay was stripped bare...radiator, electrics, plumbing, clips etc etc. I even removed all the tabs that are welded on to hold the wiring loom. I want to fit some custom clips if I can find some, I'll probably regret that move later on no doubt.....I started stripping back the far side inner wing to bare steel. It was a real nightmare as this car was one of the ones treated by zybart years ago and the stuff dont like coming off. I resorted to wire wheels in my grinder and drill to do the job. There was a little rust that I cut and shut on the bottm front section of the inner wing, but apart from that is fairly clean. I then attacked the firewall right back to bare metal too and anyone who has also done this job knows only too well how much fun getting all the sound deadening off is....thanks Mr Ford for that.....Well heres them two sides stripped back and painted in 2 pack primer. Not much to see apart from that hole for the emergency brake in the bottom of the drivers footwell.....

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    started this week stripping the nearside innerwing. It was all mint apart from an unsighly rust bubble about the size of a ten pence coin, so knowing it would be far worse underneath, I cut the surrounding area till I found clean metal....which turned into a bigger hole than first anticipated. The reinforcement panel behind was also looking worse for wear, which you can see in the pic below. A few pokes with a screwdriver showed it to be of the swiss variety of cheese....

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    No way to fix this properly without the trusty grinder again.....heres another pic ten minutes later.........

    [​IMG]

    Again, I try my best only to cut away the minimal I can until there is good metal, in this case I will have to completely remake the whole reinforcement section which you can see below. I tried to keep it as straight as possible without cutting it to pieces as I will need it to make a good copy template from fresh steel....


    Thats all for now.....Elliot
     
  26. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 10:19 am


    Been a busy week or so this end and not had much time to go play out in the garage. I did make up the repair panels to fix up the inner wing section I cut out. Here's a pic from the engine bay with the hole now filled up. I spot welded as well as stiched the outside.Just a word of wisdom and/or warning here to anyone else out there doing the same job or considering doing it. It is an age old practice to drill 6mm holes and then Mig weld through the hole to the panel behind to join the two together and at the same time mimic the factory spot weld. Now, I have a 250 Amp Mig, and when I do spot welds in this way, I drill about an 8mm hole and crank the Mig to full power and even then after some destruction testing I cannot create a weld as strong as the original done by Ford with their spot welder. So, if anyone else out there is doing the same...please, please if you 'can', stitch weld or fully seam weld as well as the above, especially if your fitting new sills or something structural otherwise you may very well end up dead after an accident.Anyway, heres the pic

    [​IMG]

    I then set about remaking the cut out reinforcement section which is full of rust on the reverse side that you see here. This part is made of heftier steel than most of the car so I have found some galv steel the same thickness to make the new copy from.....it's not perfect, but I am happy with it...

    [​IMG]

    Elliot
     
  27. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 10:44 am

    Took a pic of the 1/2 cut. Cant wait to get it shoe-horned into the capri.



    [​IMG]

    Got a small vid of the engine running as you see it there but it wont upload due to file size. Any ideas Nick? It's only 500kb.Elliot
     
  28. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2005 7:52 pm


    The engine in the LS400 is the 1UZ-FE. It was in the big toyotas and Lexus cars for about 10 years all up and was pretty much the same internally. Standard output figures from the factory are close to 300 BHP and 350 NM of torque.The engines are well known for being extremely light and strong. The engine is widely used for mods in the US without touching the bottom end and have reached upto 1000 BHP.There are a number of sources for aftermarket superchargers and upgrades both in the US and here in Oz.Elliot
     
  29. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 7:37 am


    Gearboxes, gearboxes.....been in a bit iof a quandry about that. The obvious manual box to go for would be a supra turbo. Unfortunately, everyone else wants them too and they demand about $2000 2nd hand. The clutch conversion kit etc is another $1500, and that all starts to add up to a lot of money.The Auto that comes with the lexus motor is a very good one and has the bonus of being completely electronic. I've tracked down a guy who makes an electronic box of goodies to convert the system to tiptronic. So at the mo, thats what I'm going for. All I have to decide is whether to have red push buttons on the steering wheel to change up or down a gear or go for arcade style paddles or go race style gear stick with switch on tilt forward or back. I'll then get the gearbox worked with a high stall and it'll be a lot more fun than a manual and half the cost.No idea when I'll get the car on the road. Not this year I doubt. I have decided to replace just the outer sills and patch the inners. there are another 2 rust spots to fix then the shell will be off to the bead blasters and then I will 2 pack epoxy primer the shell in and out and then drop in the engine and box.Elliot
     
  30. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 8:54 am

    [​IMG]

    Shoe horn anyone ??
     
  31. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 7:52 pm


    Engine mounts? whats that then ???....No engine mounts as yet...actually no crossmember come to think of it...That pic was taken last night literally seconds after squeezing that engine/gearbox in. Spent about 5 minutes pushing and pulling to get the engine to sit roughly in position. Surprisingly there is oodles of room around the gearbox and not that you can see, but also loads of room for the radiator and thermo's. It does look tight for the crossmember and steering and the brake servo....I will have to mount the bonnet and lift the engine a squeeze to get the crossmember in, hopefully later this week I should be able to work all that out..... I was just happy it all kinda looks like it might workElliot
     
  32. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 7:56 pm


    Spent a few more hours in the garage last night looking at the engine transplant.I fitted up the crossmember and rack and lowered the engine into position and trial fitted the bonnet and it wont shut by about 20mm...... Bugger.Also with the brake servo mounted in, the engine has to be shifted forwards about 100mm.Ok, not depressed about this, it just means more work which I pretty much new was going to happen. So to fix the height problem, I will have to make a new oil pan from scratch ('fun'). And I will have to look at mounting up a remote servo setup instead so I can push the engine right back up against the firewall.s**t happens....and in a capri........it always doesElliot
     
  33. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2005 6:44 am


    Cant cut and weld the original pan as its made in two parts, the first being an intermediate plate made from cast aluminium and then a front mounted steel pan. The aluminium part is about 75mm thick. I will make a new one of these which is only half as deep which will allow me to drop the engine about 2 inches. I can then fit or model into it a rear mounted pan allowing the engine to be pushed about 100mm towards the firewall.Have spoken to my engineer today and he said it is perfectly ok to fit the servo in the car or under the wing or in front of the engine and have it operate either remotely or by mechanical means, which is excellent news.Elliot
     
  34. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 8:28 am
    Made a bit of progress this week. Made a new rear mount for the Lexus gearbox to mount to the bottom of the capri chassis. The lexus gearbox is a lot shorter than the capri's, but the lexus mount is about 4 inches more rearward than the chassis mounts when its sitting under the car. I looked at possibly cutting out the chassis mounting panel from underneath and moving further back, but it looked like a bit of a nightmare job and I hate working on a car from underneath so I've made up a new mount from scratch using 75mm angle and a section of 'I' beam for the main bridge. Roughed it out yesterday and welded it up this morning. The two large holes are to drain out any water that gets in there.

    [​IMG]

    The parts on the outside allow me to use the original mounting points, and I will also make two new rear mounting points and drill and tap when the main engine mounts are finished(hopefully water drain holes will be in just the right position to get on the new bolts with a socket.. :wink: )I've also started work on a new engine oil sump. Will have some pictures over the coming week or two_On another note, it looks like I've picked up a 6 month old unused capri V8 chassis kit for a few hundred bucks from an abandoned project....which is nice !Elliot
     
  35. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2005 11:44 am

    A rotten Mk1 capri on a very home made rotissary was delivered out our place this arvo.

    [​IMG]

    The shell is 99.9% rust, but hey look whats hiding on the otherside !!!

    [​IMG]

    and then about ten minutes later.....

    [​IMG]

    The Mk1 capri shares the same floorpan with the mk2 and 3 capris so this will literally bolt right up under my Mk3 and stiffen the chassis to take the grunt of a V8 with no stress about chassis twist.They are available over here for abour £400 new, but this one was only bought 6 months ago and hasnt even seen tarmac yet so at less than half the normal price I couldnt say no.......just got to get that rotten old shell to capri heaven now...
     
  36. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2005 7:40 pm


    The chassis kit is purely to strengthen the car when upgrading engines to larger than intended by the manufacturer. It is very hard to do any sort of V8 conversion over here in oz with engineering approval without one.This particular kit is made by Rod Hadfield. He is a very well known car man and has his own business called castlemaine rod shop. http://www.rodshop.com.au/ Follow the links to 'latest projects to see what these guys get upto...especially the 1955 chev with the V12 which is road legal!!!!And yes I'd say this would be excellent if you wanted to convert your Capri to roofless, however you may also have to stiffen up the outer sills.The chassis kits are only bolt on and not welded.Elliot
     
  37. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 7:30 pm


    Progress...errThe car is now stripped right back to the bare shell. The front end has some large trolley wheels bolted underneath so she can be moved around and the rear is resting on an old dead mk1 axle and wheels. Car is booked in for bead blasting on 21st March. I have booked that whole week off work to get the shell cleaned up and primered.I still have the outer sills to change and a few minor hole patches to fix up, but with winter now fast approaching I wanted to get the shell bare metalled and primerd whilst we still have good weather.Will post some pics when she's out of the garage......Elliot
     
  38. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun May 08, 2005 10:20 am

    About time I did an update......

    Heres a pic with the car mounted up on the trailer just before I set off to take the shell to the bead blasters......Note the nice Mk1 axle sitting under the back. Front is supported by a pair of jockey wheels welded to a frame.....

    [​IMG]

    I was not impressed when the car came back, the guy promised he could remove all the sound deadening from the chassis....not so.

    [​IMG]

    Shell reversed back into my freshly painted garage. There are a few areas that will need to be worked on rust-wise. The main one being the nearside kick panel (a-post) is holed really bad so will be easier to replace the whole panel.
    Car is now 90% primered. I've had to do it a section at a time as I didnt want it sitting in bare steel for too long and it has taken a lot of work and time to strip the sound deadening off and get into the areas where the bead blaster missed.
     
  39. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 11:06 am

    Thanks for the support guys, I need all I can get......somedays I just feel like giving up.......

    Got the chassis kit back on the car again tonight (pr**k) of a job. Ive put the kit back on temporarily to support the chassis while I cut and fit new outer sills and patch the inners.....I'll do a lot o pics for this cos 99.99% of capris need new sills now.....unfortunately.

    I've a pair of brand new unused gen ford inner and outer sills at the back of one of the sheds. I'll get them bead blasted next week ready to go back on the car.
    Not looking forward to this bit of the job. reckon it's the worst job to do on a capri
     
  40. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Thu May 12, 2005 9:00 am

    Ok, time to do the job I've been having nightmares about for the last 2 years....attack the sills on the Capri.

    [​IMG]

    The most important thing when cutting off the old sills is to support the chassis so it doesnt sag and wreck your car. I have the V8 chassis kit bolted up under car now so I'm preying that does most of the work. I grabbed a few offcuts of steel RHS and welded them to the door aperture to help hold the car straight and true while the sills are worked on. I will only work on one side at a time and wont move on to the passenger side until this one is 100% complete.

    I was hoping to just be able to patch up the inner sills as they never looked very bad from the inside of the car, but after cutting off the outer sill revealed a little more rust than expected. Here's a picture of the front section which all capris suffer

    [​IMG]

    And here's a pic showing the rear end around the seatbelt lower mount

    [​IMG]

    All in all, it's probably a lot better than a lot of capris out there, but if I had cut these rusted areas out theres just about as much chance of the chassis sagging as removing the whole panel I reckon, so....wheres my angle grinder?

    [​IMG]

    Inner sill mostly removed and careful removal of the awkward bits

    [​IMG]

    I have not used a chisel or hammer at all doing this job, careful use of a grinder with 1mm ultrathin cutting diska,a spot weld drill, wire wheel brush and a pair of pliers are all that is needed to do the job.
    I was very careful not to be rough with this job as it is very easy to bend and distort the floor panel lip edge and especially the area shown in the last photograph. If you drill in the right spot, the panel should fall off in your hands....well nearly......

    Basic to do list is, to first rough out as much of the main outer sill as possible, leaving only the long sections where the spot welds are. Clean up the area with a wire brush wheel to show where the spot welds are. Then one by one I drill out each weld in turn and use pliers to roll the metal out of the way until it reveals the next weld. There are areas at the front and rear of the sills which are pretty awkward to get at and you really would need your entire interior removed to get access from inside of the car to get at the spot welds. Again, I cut away as much metal as poss with the grinder, then drill the welds and peel away the old metal...simple.

    Secret of this job.....buy some 1mm cutting disks!!!!! Not sure where they are stocked in the UK, but I use the flexovit brand.

    Will be taking the new panels to the bead blaster tomorrow.
     
    Phil Work likes this.
  41. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Sun May 22, 2005 1:11 am

    Other panels? You mean the new sills?

    The bead blaster still has 3 of the sills to do. The inner sill on the drivers side which I have ready to go on will be welded up later today. It's taken a few hours work to clean up all the mating flanges etc on the car and get everything straight. Will post pics tonight if I get time

    Elliot
     
  42. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun May 22, 2005 8:53 am

    New inner sill is now welded on the drivers side.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    All mating faces were first painted with weld through zinc before the new sill was offered up and clamped into position.
    I spot welded through pre-drilled holes in the new sill, then stich welded the inner sill from inside the car along the whole length. Nice to see some new clean metal going on the car, shame the brand new paint on the floor is now destroyed....still, it was so much fun I get to paint it again....yay !

    Elliot
     
  43. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Tue May 24, 2005 8:24 pm

    Yeah, I think you really love that sanding action woman !

    Outer sill is now in position and half way welded. Hope to get that finished by the end of the week, then I can fix up the drivers seat mounting positions which have all got small cracks, then theres the floor/bulkhead to rebuild and the front sill repair section and that side will be finally out of my hair !!!!!!

    Elliot
     
  44. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 10:12 am

    The outer sill has now been welded up on the car (sorry no pics)

    I've been fixing up the drivers side floor where the seat bolts through at the rear of the guide rails. I reckon everyones Capri will have suffered the same problem as all of mine have (unless I'm just a fat b*****d?) and cracked around the spot welds allowing water to get in and do a little damage, so I'm covering this bit in detail in case anyone wants to follow in my wobly footsteps. (The pen marked lines are to help me realign the mounting position when the plate is rewelded back on.

    [​IMG]

    This is the inner rear seat mounting point. I have already drilled through the 5 spot welds and removed the square reinforcement plate from under the car which you can see here on the right. Fortunately there is really very little rust on either the plate or the bottom of the car (unlike I found on the outer mount).
    You can see the two small hairline cracks around the top two holes. If left these would eventually join up and possible with time the whole mount would collapse.
    I welded up the crack with the mig and ground the metal back to flat. Although this alone is not a strong fix, it will at least help and also seal the area from water getting in.
    My next step is to clean up the whole area and remove surround paint with a wire wheel brush in a drill. I also cleaned up the square reinforcement plate.

    [​IMG]

    Here is the next step with the plate welded back on. I first apply zinc film to both mating faces. The plate is then held in position with a car jack to hold it nice and tight to the bottom of the car, being careful to realign the mount for the seat exactly where it used to be. I then weld up the drilled through holes and ground the surface back flat.

    [​IMG]

    Next I dig through my bin of offcuts and scrap steel and find a bunch of old stamped out circles in 1.2mm steel.....perfect!
    Edges are trimmed to suit, a hole is drilled and one edge rolled around a piece of bar to suit the floor shape. I then make a series of 6mm holes in the piece to weld through and use the Mig to glue it to the car. Here is the piece welded in place. With the plate a lot bigger than the square section underneath, I am hoping the weight load on the area will now be spread wider and no future cracking will happen.....fingers crossed.

    [​IMG]

    Another session with the grinder and its looking like a bought one. Finally I drown the area with fish oil and hope some soaks inbetween the panels and coat the whole surrounding area to protect it until it will be reprimered when the rest of the floor is completed.
     
  45. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 10:05 am

    [​IMG]

    Ok, onto attack the front floor section. Heres the rust after the paint has been removed. I usually keep removing paint until theres at least a 1 inch border with sound metal.

    [​IMG]

    Some people go to the gym or karate to take out their anger and frustrations, I just plug in my angle grinder !

    Had to remove a fair section of rot from both the floor panel and the bulkhead to find good steel. I will make up some new plates and weld them in over the coming days.......more pics to come.....

    You can clearly see the V8 chassis kit to the left of the main rail here. It sits nice and snug under there dont it ?

    I think I was closer to demolition man than quality control in my past life cashy!
     
  46. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:02 pm

    Finally found a spare two hours to work on the car today !!! Been working crazy mongous hours at work and will be until at least the end of the month

    Anyway, managed to quickly knock up the first repair panel to fix up the drivers side front floor area. Was not a fun job trying to create a similar curvature of the original floor, but I'm happy with what I did in the time. Had to rivet it into position initally to hold it, then welded her up from both inside and under the car.

    [​IMG]

    More to follow............
     
  47. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:18 am

    Still working big hours at the mo. Got a pic of the floor finished from a few weeks back. Looks a bit grotty at the moment as the fish oil attracts any grit and dust it can, I'm sure it will look a million bucks with a fresh coat of paint.

    [​IMG]

    This week I've finally got the new stainless steel oil sump I made fitted up under the new V8 and spent about 8 hours trying to get oil pressure...finally succeeded and then coverted the electronic oil pressure sender to a mechanical pipe to fit the capri oil pressure gauge.

    Not Capri related but, I had to show this pic of our cat sat on my lap. I think I must be a bad influence somehow....hehe

    [​IMG]

    Elliot
     
  48. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    PostPosted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 8:33 pm Post subject: Reply with quote
    No pics, but plenty of stuff has been done lately.

    The V8 engine now 'finally' runs on its own without the original Lexus wiring loom. It took two days and a lot of help from the guys at lextreme.com forums to get the damn thing to go. Have managed to fool the OE CPU that it has everything still attached. A new transmission controller for the tiptronic control has been ordered and is being shipped as we speak. I've done templates and sent them to the laser cutters so they can make some new header and cat flanges. Hopefully they will be done this week and then I can start work on my new stainless headers to fit in the Capri engine bay.
    The throttle body has now been removed and stripped. The car originally had traction control and uses a second butterly in the TB which I wont be using so that has been removed and the shaft holes welded up and polished back. All the TB brackets, nuts bolts etc will be taken to the chrome platers today and the rest of the TB to the polishers tomorrow if I get time. Discovered a large build up of crust in the plenum probably from the EGR system, so I am now sadly contemplating head work to clean it all up back to good again.
    Last night I started removing the passenger side outer sill to find that the inner sill is nearly mint. I couldnt believe it, must be the only non rusted panel on the whole car....hehe

    Elliot
     
  49. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 8:53 am

    Stripped down my TB and got it back from the polishers after I hacked off the traction control butterfly and had it tig'd up.

    [​IMG]

    Elliot
     
  50. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2005 8:57 am

    Got the parts from the throttle body chromed at last. A one week quoted job turned out to take them 3 weeks and for that they only returned 25 of the 40+ parts I gave them to chrome. Luckily, they only lost nuts and bolts and washers....but still...I had to chase up stainless steel ones...
    Got it assembled today, heres how it came out :-

    [​IMG]

    Bloody marvelous !
     
  51. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2005 7:49 pm

    After a brief phone call to 'steel panels', the capri body is going to have to sit for a few months as they have no more new passenger 'A panels' until around xmas time. So in the mean time, I've decided to strip down the top of the V8 and do a little fiddling with the heads and fit a new waterpump, cambelt, tensioners, bearings etc and give the engine a damn good clean up, polish up and chrome everythng in sight.

    Took a few hours to strip it down as there are more 'bits' bolted to this engine than you could ever imagine...what with all the covers, sensors, brackets, etc. The good news is that the engine is excepsionally clean inside with very little build up on the valves and no wear in anything i've seen so far.
    Got a set of genuine lexus head gaskets and water pump on their way out from the states. Just considering the options as far as new cams, and head porting at the moment.....will have to see how far my budget stretches over the next few weeks !!!!!! (No comments like 'oh, you have a budget do you', thanks bird!)........ hehe

    Elliot
     
  52. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sat Jan 07, 2006 8:57 am

    Wow, long time no update. Not a huge amount to report on the Capri. I've been working a few hours on it everyday but most of the stuff I've been doing is running around and sourcing new parts.
    Since the last update I've fully rebuilt the starter motor and solenoid (no pics as it's not been polished....its hidden out of sight when fitted), The alternator is in progress awaiting parts. The heads have been professionally flowed, crankshaft ground where the front and rear oil seals sit, the block is currently being measured and the rotating assembly balanced. The original valves are shot to pieces and I will be getting new stainless manley valves from the states. This week I finally after major nightmares sourcing seals rebuilt the power steering pump. Hope you've got your dark glasses on Stevey C.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  53. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 12:28 am

    Heaps has happened but not really any pics. The alternator is back together after finally tracking down all new internals. I'm just waiting on the platers to finish the last of the nuts and bolts and the pulley before it will be finished. The new 'A' panel arrived from the UK a few weeks ago. I've cut the rectangular hole for the door stop (part that stops the door opening too far), and offered it into place. I'm trying not to do too much grinding and welding at the mo as my garage floor is lined with all the engine parts.
    Still waiting on the new valves and pistons to arrive from the US. They cant be far away now, then the machining can be done to the engine before it can be assembled.
    I've been testing out different types of one way flow valve to set up the engine pre oil pressure system im working on. So far the ones I've tried have had too high a cracking pressure (opening pressure). Got another one to pick up and try on monday...keeping fingers crossed.
    The front suspension is back on the front of the car. Does look nice to have them wheels on again. I've been in consultation with the engineer earlier this week to to come up with a workable design for the compression strut and we finally came to dsome agreeance (is that a real word ?). I will start making them at work this week once I get the material I need (high tensile steel). I've also discovered that the front crossmember is bent...must have been in a crash at some point(its not the original one from this chassis...so not worried about that) so it's unuseable as it pushes the passanger wheel forwards by quite a large amount. I've located a new 2nd hand one in Queensland. just got to organise getting it down here.

    Elliot
     
  54. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sat Mar 18, 2006 11:43 pm

    Got a pic or two here of the work on the passenger side A post. A new panel arrived a month or two back from steelpanels. It came without any of the holes for the door hinges or for the door 'dont open too farer bit' (yes, thats a technical term by the way!). When cutting away the original A post, I accidentally threw away the reinforcement section for the lower door hinge, so I knocked up a new one from 2mm steel. Heres a pic of the new panel with all the holes done and about a gazillion spot weld plug holes all ready to go. The pre-primer has been removed and the panel sprayed with a few coats of fish oil.

    [​IMG]

    The fit isnt 100% which I was quite dissapointed about as in the past, steelpanels work has been excellent. I used my entire collection of welding clamps, G clamps and a few nuts and bolts to stretch it into position for welding.
    Heres the underlying metal work. I sprayed the whole area with fish oil and let it dry overnight.

    [​IMG]

    All mating faces on both the new A panel and the chassis were painted with weld through primer before the two parts were joined. The pics I took of the final job didnt come out too flash...

    Elliot
     
  55. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:51 am

    Fish oil......bloody fantastic stuff, every garage should have at least a few tins of.

    Comes in a spray pack can. It is available in either standard or de-odourised versions. Obviously made of actual fish oil.

    It can be sprayed onto bare metal. it will protect it for storage from the elements. It is excellent for use in box sections...and hard to reach areas as it can be sprayed.....the spray isnt finite....it kinda forms a vapour and lands where it lands...which is good for them hard to reach areas. if left for a few days will form a hard sticky but dry surface which CAN be painted over. The manufacturers claim (but dont they all) that it can be sprayed over rust and it will stop spreading.....it basically seals it.

    It a defo thumbs up from me

    Elliot
     
  56. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 9:10 am Post subject: Reply with quote
    Finally nearly gotten all the sills completed....
    Got some pictures of the modifications I am doing to the sills to allow water run-off from the sunroof to escape more effectively than Ford's original 'drain the water in the sill and see how long the car lasts method'.

    My plan is to weld steel tube through the sills so that the 4 drain pipes from the sunroof can pass right through and poke out of the bottom maybe a mm or two. The gap around the drain pipe will be sealed with some kind of gunge where it protrudes through the bottom of the sill. Doesnt really make much sense in writing...heres a pic or two :-

    [​IMG]

    heres the view of the rear end of the passanger side outter sill. I've drilled a large hole and welded in the tube and cleaned it back flush.

    [​IMG]

    Heres the view from the inside. Just call me 'shed man !!! '.

    [​IMG]

    Heres one for Steve cash !!!!! The sill is sprayed with fish oil in light coats to build up a good layer. It takes a long time to dry but it's well worth it I reckon.

    Elliot
     
  57. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Thu Mar 23, 2006 6:35 am

    Fish oil takes ages(days) to come to dry. It does not dry 100%, but remains flexible and because of this has the ability to continue sealing rust where other products harden and fail. It dries to a very sticky finish(like fly paper), But, yes it can be painted over. It is idually suited to box sections, inside door panels and hard to reach areas.
    One advantage it has over more waxy products is that it is very thin and water like when first sprayed and can therefore get into places others cannot....i.e. it will soak between welded seams. It will seal rusted areas very well.

    Elliot
     
  58. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Tue Apr 11, 2006 8:32 pm

    The passenger's side outer sill is now fully welded on. I've still got a few welds to dress up, but it's pretty much done...at last !

    I've also fixed up the passengers side front seat rear mounting positions the same as I did to the other side (pics about 5 pages back).

    I have now opened a can of worms with the underseal under the car. It is a hell of a lot easier than I expected to remove the old original Ford stuff than I had imagined it would be. About 2 hours work and I've removed about 4 square foot right back to the primer.... I figured it was going to be 'the job from hell'...but totally the opposite. Just a scraper to loosen it up, then a cloth soaked in seven oil (borrowed from work), and it wipes off clean.....
    It's a job I actually wasnt going to do...It was put there by Ford 25 odd years ago and has done the car proud. And it aint broke so why fix it. With all the floor welding I've done, I had to clean some of it up....and it's all a bit late now......

    Elliot
     
  59. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sat Apr 15, 2006 8:39 am

    I've been working on a solution for the front suspension bottom TCA outer to chassis links for quite some time. My engineer took some convincing to allow me to use a compression bar instead of the original sway bar setup. I'll eventually make up a sway bar that runs forward like the original, but it wont be directly linked, and only work as anti roll and not combination anti roll and TCA location like the OE.

    I've designed some parts and had them made from 4140 high tensile to please the engineer. I still have to put a bend towards the rear of the main bar to allow clearance to the inner wing bottom, and that's my next nightmare as 4140 doesnt like being bent and needs to be heated to over 1000 degrees to retain the grain structure.
    Are you confused yet? I am I was lost 5 sentences ago....heres some pics :-

    The first picture shows the individual parts lined up. The short bar on the right passes through the outer TCA and utilises the original rubber bushes. I may swap them for steel ones later one...I'll see how ride quality goes. The bar on the left has a long internal thread on the left hand end. I will weld threaded bar to the bush collar on the far left and then this will allow caster adjustment.....

    [​IMG]

    Heres the parts mounted roughly in position

    [​IMG]

    Just got to make up some jigs so that the left and right hand bars match after I've bent them, then they have to go for heat treatment to align the grains so the bars have the maximum strength.

    Elliot
     
  60. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 8:36 pm

    Got about a million things on-going at the mo. I'm still doing the odd hour here and there scraping off the underbody. Its a bit of a pain with the chassis kit still fitted and I wont be able to complete it until it is taken off. I need to make up some brackets for the compression bars and weld them onto the chassis kit so i was waiting to tack that into position before removing the kit.
    The compression bars have been sent away for annealing before I can bend them. They should be back in my hands this time next week so they tell me. I also purchased a set of non-lock door handles off ebay which unfortunately arrived damaged.....the little plastic plates that hold the moving part in position were broken off.
    I've drilled out the rivets with a 1.5mm drill and tapped the holes to M2. I'll knock up some new plates in staino. I could buy some more handles but I really want to have a set stripped back and re powder coated which means doing the drilling and tapping anyway......
    I'm taking my fibreglass bonnet to a specialist today to see if it can be strengthened and improved somehow. I'm not happy with the lack of rigidity and thin-ness of the upper part......

    Elliot
     
  61. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 6:49 am

    More pics in progress of my compression bars.

    [​IMG]

    This picture above shows the assembled bar now in an annealed condition ready for bending.

    [​IMG]

    Close up picture of the Tig welding. I did not do this weld myself, I am not that good with a TIG. An aviation welder did the job for me, as this part will be under high stresses and needs to be done expertly. The welds will be x-ray'd once they have been stress releived by heat treatment.

    Elliot
     
  62. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Wed May 10, 2006 9:55 am

    Well progress is going to be a bit hindered as far as the front suspension goes for about another 8 to 10 weeks as I put an angle grinder cutting disk into the back of my left hand severing the tendons which work the thumb. The tendon sucked back up my arm and they had to do an extra incision to find it and thread it back towards the thumb.....yes it's a bit on the sore side at the mo.

    Anyway....Finally got my new custom Manley valves for the V8 from America yesterday. The exhaust valves have been made +1...not a huge difference, but theres not much room for movement in the heads and I dont like pushing stuff to the limit. The Valves and heads have now been taken to the engine shop where they will machine the valve seats, fit new valve guides and machine the head faces. Should be back in my hands (or hand) middle of next week so I can start to re-assemble the heads....at last ! Only ordered the valves in January!!!!!!

    Elliot
     
  63. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun May 14, 2006 12:56 am

    Thanks for the support. Its a real pain only having one hand...just the simplest of things is just nearly impossible. However, being off work for so long does allow more time in the garage Devil even if every job takes 3 times as long...

    Got my alternator back together yesterday...brand new internals, brushes, commutator, regulator, bearings, and some other gizmo stuff I dont know what it does....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    That was fun assembling with one hand.......looks nice now though...

    Elliot
     
  64. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Mon May 22, 2006 9:40 am

    Days like today are a very rare breed indeed.

    Just to update. I ordered new inlet and exhaust valves and new pistons from the USA via a distributor in Sydney way way way back in err...January. It is now...basically summer...and only last week did I finally get the valves in my hands after months of torture, arguments, and the most rediculous repeat of c**k ups by said distributor.

    Today...we visited the doctor believing he was sending me back to work next week after my little angle grinder accident...but 'no', he kindly gave me another 4 weeks off work...paid !! Arriving home in good spirits saw a suspicious large box sitting on the front doorstep. It couldnt be? but it was...yes after so many sleepless nights....my new pistons. With the days mail was also a bag of parts from Lexus I had ordered a millenium ago along with $40 in cash refund for overpayment....my god!
    Something must be wrong I was thinking....someone is trying to test me...the pistons...I bet theyre wrong somehow? Quick, scrambling to the garage to dig out the micrometers....no...they are as they should be? Hmm....well...I'll take them to the machine shop so they can balance the crankshaft and bore the block. I left the machine shop at 3:30pm. As I walked out of the workshop down there I noticed my heads sitting on a bench....all 32 valves fitted neatly and precisely into the worked heads...a wonderous sight....but the head faces not yet machined......'next week', they guys yelled out as I waved goodbye. 5pm and the mobile is ringing. Its the workshop again.....they've discovered the pistons are actually wrong I was thinking....or theyve dropped and broken something......no....they were calling to tell me that they had machined the heads since I left and were ready to pick up !!!!

    Now I am the worlds most unlucky man....I've sat at a table at bingo and been the only 1 single person of 12 of us not to win..... I am the living equivalent of that old git character on harry enfield........but today...not so, today was....... a very good day.

    Elliot
     
  65. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Tue May 23, 2006 3:32 am

    Bout time I had a bit of luck.....anyway...enough phylosophy for one day, lets talk cars...well engines.

    Got my heads back from the machine shop. Heres some pics -->
    [​IMG]

    Heres both heads. The valves are just sitting there, the springs arent fitted.

    [​IMG]

    Here's a close up. The smaller exhaust valves are +1mm in diameter. That doesn't sound like much, but the porting computer says it should be good for another 10 skwillion horse power. The valve seats are pressed into the heads and +1 was nicely do-able...anymore and it would have been on the limit...and I didnt want to go down that road.

    [​IMG]

    Heres the inlet port. they've been port matched to the inlet manifold. Note the surface finish is not polished. Many an argument can be had about that so we'll leave that there.

    [​IMG]

    Finally heres an exhaust port. The blue colouring is engineers blue, I havent suddenly invented some special blue aluminium alloy. Thats there from port matching the exhaust ports to the exhaust manifold.

    Next job is to lap the valves in. Everyone says I dont need to as the seats have been machine ground blah blah. I dont care, I'm doing it anyway...though ever so slowly with one hand....32 times ! I think these 4 weeks of work may be used up a little quicker than imagined...

    Elliot
     
  66. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Wed May 24, 2006 8:47 am

    The valves seal up against the head when the fuel is ignited. If the seal of the valves is perfect then all the energy from the fuel can be put into pushing the piston downwards. As engines wear, the valves wear and the seal between the valve and head is also lost. This is affected by the type of fuel you use, temperature of the engine, ignition timing etc etc.
    Lapping a valve to the head is simply using a paste known as valve cutting compound which is available in course, medium and fine. Obviously the worse the wear , you start with a course grain then work your way to the fine.
    The process is very simple. You clean the valve and the valve seat (where the valve seals against the head). Then you put a small amount of compound onto the valve, insert it into the head. You then usually use a wooden stick with a suction cup on one end and push the cup against the valve so it sticks to it with the vacuum. you then spin the valve back and forth as if you were trying to light a fire. You lift up the valve every now and then and rotate it a bit then repeat. When you remove the valve, you will see where the area has started to grind together and once it is fully even with no 'dots' on it and no lines etc etc, you can clean it back up, lubricate it with engine assembly lube and refit it to the head.
    Now, I have 32 of these buggers to do and only one hand. So..I went out today and bought one of these --->

    http://www.autotools.com.au/catalogue/p ... /10/49/449

    It's an american made tool. It's not particularly well made, but for £20...who cares as long as it does the job. I've just spent 1/2 hour outside and completed 5 valves already...I reckon thats good going.

    Elliot
     
  67. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 10:21 am

    I picked up the block and rotating assembly from the machine shop today. The block has been bored and honed to suit the new race forged pistons, the decks have been machined, the crank has been polished and balanced with the rods and pistons and flywheel. Rods have been reworked and new small end bushes pressed into place and reamed to suit the pins. Pistons have been deburred and finally......... the rings have been gapped.

    Heres a picture of the bare block. I've just fitted a few brackets and bolts for the water pump. It took quite some time fishing through all the nuts, bolts etc to find the right ones from the measurements I took when stripping the motor.

    [​IMG]

    I've considered painting the block black, but decided against it in the end. Once the engine is in the Capri, you can barely see the block anyway. I will paint the valley black though as it gets full of grit over time and you can see into the valley from some angles.... be easier to use compressed air to blow grit from a painted surface than from the rough cast aluminium.

    Elliot
     
  68. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sat Jun 24, 2006 6:22 am

    Done a bit more today. I'm not trying to do too much at the moment, the engine bearings are still in the post so not too much I can do till they turn up. Anyhow, I bought some black brush on engine enamel and painted the valley with 2 coats. The starter motor I rebuilt is now bolted in place, the knock sensors refitted, new water pump sealed and bolted up along with the bypass pipe and brackets.

    [​IMG]

    Elliot
     
  69. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Jun 25, 2006 2:29 am


    Im waiting on the engine bearings which are in the post from the USA as we speak. Could be here any day. Got quite a few hours work to assemble the rotating parts...need to triple check all the clearances, oilways, ring gaps etc etc.
    Once the bottom end is done it's all nuts and bolts. I have all the parts waiting to go. Then once the heads have been fitted it will come to a bit of a full stop as I havent yet ordered the new cams. They're two grand a set and I wont have the cash until after tax time (about 6 to 8 weeks away). Then the engine can be dropped into the bay and I can make up the engine mounts. Once thats done, I will have to build the manifolds, save up another grand for the engine computer as the original one will not like the cams and it could damage the engine if I use it for too long as it will not be supplying the correct amount of fuel. I'm still thinking about butchering the plenum chamber or making a new one with a 90mm throttle body from a nissan VH45, that will be the next restrictive part I'm guessing.

    Elliot
     
  70. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Mon Jun 26, 2006 8:55 am

    Got the engine bearings delivered today. Thought they were going to be federal mogal brand, but got clevite 77 instead....bit of a bonus as that was my first choice anyway.

    Just spent an hour or two removing the mains studs from the block, cleaning the mains machined mating faces on the block and refitting the studs and torquing them down to 10Nm. Also checked the stud diameters to make sure they were within spec. My spec sheet says they should be within 0.2953 - 0.2992. All 20 of mine measure 0.2997. I cant imagine they've gained size, so I'm assuming they are fine...not undersize at least.
    Also checked the bore diamter against the new forged piston size. All 8 bores appear to be 4 thou clearance which is spot on to Ross's design recommendation. Just checking the machine shop did the job right as I dont trust anyone these days.

    Elliot
     
  71. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:51 am

    Got the crankshaft fitted today. Took quite a long time. Everything was cleaned, then cleaned and cleaned again till everything was spotless. New clevite half mains bearings were installed into the block, then the crankshaft carefully lowered into position. The mains caps had the other half bearings fitted and all 5 mains caps were torqued down with a short length of plastiguage on each. The mains caps were then removed again and the plastiguage measurements checked. All mains clearances are 1.5 thou. Spec sheet says between 1 and 1.8 thou so I'm happy to assemble it all permanently. The crankshaft was once again removed to allow some nulon engine assembly paste to be smeared onto all the bearing surfaces. Crankshaft offered to the block once more, this time with the thrust bearings. Mains caps were refitted and torqued down to 20Nm, then 90 degrees in order. Mains side bolts were then reinstalled with new dowty seals and torqued to 50Nm.

    [​IMG]

    Elliot
     
  72. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Wed Jun 28, 2006 3:09 am

    Got a bit more done this morning. Its all going together in a weird order, I should be fitting the pistons and rods now, but I'm waiting on some tools I bought on ebay to make the job easier, so for now I've started on the front end. Fitted a brand new oil pump supplied by lextreme, nearly forgot to replace the o ring on the block, but rememebered at the last minute. I've discovered some slight differences in the castings from the original oil pump and the new one. Nothing that will affect the engine in anyway, just minor changes.....

    Anyway, it appears to fit fine. I've fitted brand new idler pulleys and they all seem to line up correctly with each other and the water pump pulley. Also pressed in a new crankshaft seal and fitted the toothed belt drive wheel.

    [​IMG]
     
  73. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 7:32 am

    Things came to a bit of a sudden halt today. Bought a new piston ring compressor and ring pliers which arrived today.
    I installed the top and 2nd rings for number one bore to check the clearances set by the machine shop.

    The paperwork that came with the new rings gave some calculations to work out the clearances....it works out that the top ring should have 14 thou and the 2nd ring 17 thou clerances.

    After measuring up I have 17 thou and 18 thou respectively.
    I double checked my maths and measurements and got the same result !!!

    I called the machine shop and got an answer saying that they had been doing rings for years and that is their recommendation. I explained that I gave them the paperwork with all the manufacturers specs. he answered that he knows better...hmm....better than a a huge piston specialist like ROSS...I think not.

    Anyway.... I am going to call Ross as soon as I can, and see what they have to say....

    Elliot
     
  74. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 6:02 pm

    Well...time to taste some humble pie...

    Just got off the phone to Ross in the US. Their technical guy said that 3 thou oversize would be fine and that if the car was going to be used for any kind of racing or fast road use that he would have done the same.

    I'm still not convinced...but that's mainly down to lack of experience with engine building. I guess at the end of the day I'm in the hands of the professionals....

    I'll check the rest of the gaps with all the bores and assemble the motor if they are all similar.

    Elliot
     
  75. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Thu Jun 29, 2006 11:09 pm

    The lexus 1UZ-FE motor which I am working on has figures posted all over the net ranging from 250 to 300 BHP as standard. It was minutely modified during its years of production, but had basically everything internally the same.
    The exhaust manifold is really badly designed and I have heard of 40 BHP increases with new ones fitted alone. With the lighter foged pistons, flowed heads, hotter cams and aftermarket engine management I'm hoping the figure comes between 3 and 400 BHP....but and heres the huge plus (for me) reliable power, and with more torque than you can shake a stick at.

    On the downside, I'm fitting a 9" rear end which is a big weight gain difference from the original axle, added to that the extra weight of the chassis kit and the bigger wheels....they will all add up to anchor me down a bit.

    Elliot
     
  76. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sat Jul 01, 2006 3:13 am

    Ok...got all 8 pistons, rings and rods fitted up......
    The rods have been chemically cleaned and polished and the machine shop has already pressed in new small end bearings and reamed them to suit the new piston pins. The piston pins are held in place with 4 spiroloks on each piston.....what a pain in the knackers they are to fit. The rings were fitted and rotated into position, new big end bearings fitted and everything lubed up with nulon extreme. The big end caps have only been torqued upto 20Nm at the mo as I cant find the right sized socket for my torque wrench. When I find it I'll do the final torque then.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I also had time to fit the alternator....which is nice

    [​IMG]
    Elliot
     
  77. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sat Jul 01, 2006 9:39 am

    Not long now....maybe, the next week or two. The heads are now ready to go on, but I'm going to wait until monday night to start that because I want to borrow some cleaning alcohol from work to wipe the decks and heads with. Once the heads are torqued down, I can get to work on the engine wiring loom....I want to remove all the outer black tape and fit the loom into loom tube. Have to run a few extra bits in there like the oil pressure pipe instead of the original wire setup for the lexus motor. Then I think I can fit the inlet manifold and plenum chamber. be a bit of a wait after that as I'll be needing the cams soon which I have yet to order from New Zealand.

    Elliot
     
  78. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2006 10:20 am Post subject: Reply with quote
    Got both heads fitted yesterday, all meticulously cleaned with 100% hydrocarbon cleaner. All torqued down to 60NM in about 12 steps with a new ARP head stud kit. Also managed to bolt down some of the head to head cast pieces, power steering pump and a pile of brackets. The plenum and inlet manifold are just resting in position for the photo. I am going to paint the inlet manifold black....too much work involved in polishing it....

    [​IMG]

    Theres no such thing as too much chrome !!!

    Elliot
     
  79. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 9:47 am

    Not too much to update. Got a few more brackets etc fitted to the engine. I ordered a new set of cams from kelford in New Zealand on Tuesday and they arrived on Friday. Excellent service, I couldnt believe how quick they went from manufacture to delivery.
    I had a slight mishap with one of the cam gears. I took all four of the original camshafts to where I work to remove the centre gears which sit halfway along each shaft. We have a hydraulic press at work which I used to press each of the gears off. Unfortunately, I managed to drop a heavy length of steel which I was using as a packer onto one of the gears and it chipped two of the gear teeth. Sods law I suppose, such is life. So I am now on the lookout for a second hand left hand side inlet cam gear....I will also call toyota tomorrow and get a price for a new one.....I'm not expecting that to be cheap.....

    On another note.......someone on here must have been through the same problem...

    The centre gears on the exhaust cams are a nice snug fit and only just clear each cam lobe when you remove them along the shaft. The new cams have higher lift and therefore higher lobes..... I cannot seam to be able to pass the gears over the lobes, it doesnt matter what angle of attack I try....it just doesnt quite get enough clearance...

    Anyone ?

    Elliot
     
  80. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 10:27 am

    Ok, I called the cam manufacturers in NZ and spoke to their technical guy who informed me that to fit the gears over the bigger cam lobes a small clearance must be 'filed' into each of the gears.....

    Bearing in mind these gears are hardened steel, I dont think a file would do much if anything....

    Just to explain to those who are wondering what the ***&^%$% I'm on about......the engine I am rebuilding has 4 camshafts, the engine is a v8 and has 32 valves, thats 4 per cylinder. There are two cams per head, one driving the inlet valves and the other driving the exhaust valves. The crankshaft has a toothed belt (cambelt) which rotates each of the inlet camshafts. In order to rotate the exhaust camshafts, there is a gear half way along each of the cams....so that as the crankshaft rotates, so does each of the inlet cams.....the gear on the inlet cam is meshed to the gear on the exhaust cam and they rotate each other in opposite directions, therefore controlling all 32 valves.....simple !

    As I've mentioned already, these gears are normally fitted by passing them over the cam lobes, but I have now got an aftermarket cam set which has taller lobes so the gears no longer pass over.....

    heres a pic of how I ground out a small crescent shape on the bottom side of one of the gears....

    [​IMG]

    And here you can see it now easily passes over the taller lobes

    [​IMG]

    I've fitted both the inlet camshafts tonight....hopefully all 4 will be in by the end of the week.

    Elliot

    P.S. And not a cup of tea in sight !!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  81. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 10:24 am

    Thanks for reading andrew....its turning into a bit of an epic thread.... No idea how to upload a gallery, Nicks the man for that kinda malarky

    Fitted up and measured the clearances on the last of the 4 cams tonight. Heres a bit of a pictorial of how it went...

    First picture shows the left hand exhaust cam. The two separate gears have to have the preload set before you mesh it to the inlet cam gear. First you insert an M6 bolt or whatever fits into the hole to the right.

    [​IMG]

    2nd picture : Lever against the above installed bolt so that the gear rotates so that the hole to the left lines up with the threaded hole of the lower gear.

    [​IMG]

    3rd picture : Once lined up, thread an M6 bolt to lock the two gears together and preset the spring tension.

    [​IMG]

    4th picture : The new cams are drilled right through along their axis. This is the oil gallery. there are small holes in each of the cam bearings to direct oil to each of them. The ends of each cam have to be plugged. Here I am inserting the plug...Note, I have used threadlock to help hold it in position.

    [​IMG]

    5th picture : Lube the cam bearings and install into the head. Make sure the bolt is uppermost and that the single dots on the gears are aligned. Fit the cam bearing upper halves and sequentially torque down. Remove the bolt.

    [​IMG]

    Last picture : Rotate the crankshaft so that each of the cam lobes is pointing vertically upwards. Measure the clearance under the lobe with gauges. repeat with the other lobes....

    [​IMG]

    I need 8 more shims to correct the clearances...and then that saga will be done....

    Elliot
     
  82. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 7:04 am

    Cheers Kev, though I'm sure that sounds like sucking up for a bit engine assembly help..... Tongue wagging Tongue wagging

    Not updated my engine build progress for some time. Finally after 2 weeks of swapping measuring and changine cam shims, all the valve clearances are now spot on. With that done, I've been able to final fit the cambelt, belt tensioner along with new idler pulleys/bearings. The harmonic balancer is now torqued in place. Both distributor caps and rotors are fitted and some of the front engine covers too. Usually the air con pump sits on the left hand side of the engine (right in the pic) and there are about 93 auxilliary idler pulley that make it look rediculous. My original plan was to ditch the air con and all but one of the idlers, but the only way I can do that is to do a fair bit of fabrication work that would also have to seal in all the gaps between the front covers...I can see it could be done...but to be honest...i've kinda decided I cant be bothered. Not the attitude to take I know...but theres so much more I could be doing with my time its just not top of my list. Unfortunately the original radiator fan and pulley assembly was not reusseable so a new one has been ordered from the US... and I will have to run the other 2 idlers too (bugger).

    Today I fitted up the rear crankshaft seal and housing. I then plumbed the oil system to an electric oil pump I have, and pumped filtered fresh oil around the engine to make sure all the galleries were clear and it reached each of the cam bearings. It worked a treat apart from not having the sump fitted thus oil then poured all over the garage floor.

    Heres a few in progress pics :-
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    For an extra bonus point, can anyone spot the extra holes drilled in the back of my capri and can you guess what they're for ? (no, not the number plate mounting holes)

    Elliot
     
  83. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 7:52 am

    The engine wiring harness has now been stripped, cleaned and re-wrapped with new black convoluted tubing and heat shrink. It didnt take too long and looks much better now. The harness has been mounted onto the engine with a few new connectors that needed replacing. I'm waiting on a few engine parts now so nothing more I can do it for the time being.

    I've decided to do the transmission mechanical modifications now as I have a bit of spare time. The transmission I am using will be the original A341E. It was rolled onto its back, the sump plate and filter removed. Next I made up a cardboard template, removed all the valve body bolts and inserted them into the template so they go back into the same place. With the valvebody on the bench, the main oil line pressure can be adjusted. (see pics below). In the first picture you can see the pressure regulator setting(round part with screwdriver slot in centre of picture). To adjust the pressure, this part can be made to sit further inwards or outwards of the main valve body. I made a small quarter round piece from some scrap aluminium (arrowed red in first pic). Then I inserted it into the regulator end. (arrowed red in 2nd pic). This should raise the oil line pressure throughout the whole transmission.

    If you look at the two pictures, you can clearly see that the regulator is now sitting further into the valve body.

    The pressure regulator has 2 positions on it as standard. My one was set to the higher of the two. I could have rotated the regulator so it sat on the next highest point but it wouldnt have been locked in place and I was worried it might vibrate around and then fall into the lower of its adjustments. I measured the amount of movement between the two original positions and found it to be around 1.5mm. The small insert I made was from 1.5mm thick material to take the pressure to the next step higher.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I need to make some shims at work tomorrow to adjust the accumulator spring tensions. This mod will make the gearchanges much quicker and harsher. The engine/transmission were originally from a big heavy comfortable car designed for your average manager type bloke. The gearchanges were set to me nice and smooth and slow. Thats fine for it's designed application, but not really much use for hard and fast accelerations. Pics to follow ..........

    Elliot
     
  84. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:23 am

    Heres a bit of a pictorial for those who havent seen inside a transmission before.

    First pic shows the oil pan which must be removed first. if you're doing this with the transmission fitted to the car, then you should drain the oil through the drain plug first. Undo all the bolts around the perimiter with 10mm socket.

    [​IMG]

    With the pan removed, heres what the internals look like. The oil filter is next to be removed. Undo the 3 bolts that hold it on with a 10mm socket.

    [​IMG]

    Here's a close up of the 4 solenoids. Disconnect each of the electrical connector plugs.
    [​IMG]

    Heres the kickdown cable connection. The cable must now be disconnected.

    [​IMG]

    Rotate the quarter round shaped pulley by hand, pull the cable towards you and then slide the crimped connector sideways and outwards.
    [​IMG]

    Cable disconnected.
    [​IMG]

    Next, undo all the bolts that secure the main valve body to the transmission. There are quite a few bolts and you should make a note of where each one comes from as they are all different lengths and should go back in the same position. I made a simple cardboard template and poked the bolts through. When you remove the valve body, beware that there are some parts that may fall out. This pic shows the part which will fall out. Its a ball bearing, plastic holder and spring. Lower the valve body slowly and you may not drop it on the floor and have to spend the rest of the day searching for it. beware also that the accumulators dont fall.....

    [​IMG]

    Now, we are going to add shims under these two accumulators on the left. This pic was taken with the new shims fitted. the accumulators will be sitting lower than this. Simply pull them out. Remove them only one at a time and dont get their parts mixed up. One has one spring and the other has 2 springs.

    [​IMG]

    Heres one of the accumulators along with its spring. The middle part is our new shim that will raise the tension on the accumulator. Fit both shims into the accumulators followed by the spring.

    [​IMG]

    Have a great mate hold both the accumulators in position with one hand, and the ball and spring assembly with the other while you carefully put the valve body back onto the transmission. Make sure that the selector gear is positioned as shown or the selector will not work !!!

    [​IMG]


    Tighten all the bolts back into their original positions. I think about 17Nm is about right. Refit the electrical connections to the solenoids and then fit a new filter. My filter came with a cork pan gasket, but if you dont have anew one use a suitable silicon sealant when fitting the pan.
    Make sure the pan is nice and clean. Clean the 4 magnets. If they were covered in more than just fine metal filings, then it might be worth having the transmission looked at more professionally. Also clean the mating face on the transmission and fit all the bolts back in place. Tighten them sequentially. Refill the transmission to the required level on the dipstick. Start the engine, allow to reach running temperature. Move the gear selector through all gears once or twice then recheck and refill the oil.

    Elliot
     
  85. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Thu Aug 17, 2006 9:47 am

    Not much to update at the mo.

    Just come in from the garage after cleaning the new 315cc Injectors. Externally cleaned them with thinners. I then hooked each of them upto a variable DC power supply and increased the voltage from 0 until they clicked open. I used a section of rubber hose, connected one end to my air compressor and then filled the hose with white spirits and injector clean mix, then attached that to the injector outlet and opened the airline to compressed air....this backflushed each of the injectors quite well. I then repeated the whole thing with the injectors the right way round and blasted quite a considerable amount of fluid through them.

    I've not really got much left to do on the engine before it can be started....but the few jobs left are not going to get done quickly unfortunately. I've got to internally de-burr the sump and weld in a take off pipe for the electric oil priming pump. The fuel system has yet to be fitted, but I'm waiting on seals which are on back order from the states. I'm trying to make a decision between chrome plating or high temp black painting the fuel lines and rails (I'm a bit paranoid about chrome bits getting into the system). I've asked for price quotes for stainless braided hoses for the whole engine with the proper chromed ends. Found a guy on USA ebay that does that stuff fairly cheap. There are a few bits at the platers which I am waiting on...and the fan bracket assembly is also on back order from the states...and that will have to get polished once it turns up....think that will be at least 4 weeks away....and apart from that, theres not really much mechanical left.

    Heres a pic of the engine as it is today with all the covers fitted.
    [​IMG]

    Elliot
     
  86. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 9:52 am

    Not too much to update on. I'm still working on the sump assembly, and not gotten much further with that yet as I've been tied up a lot with work commitments. Also took delivery of a set of magnecor leads for AU$300 which i thought was a pretty good price. Had to redrill all the plastic lead holding brackets to keep it all neat and tidy.
    I knocked up a blanking plate for the Idle valve. I drilled and tapped a 3/8 BSP thread and fitted a 90 degree stainless fitting and then a hose tail. Heres a picture of it fitted, I'm going to make up some kind of cover plate to hide the cutout in the black plastic cover at the front bottom of the picture so that it looks more 'factory'.

    [​IMG]

    Elliot
     
  87. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Bout time for an update then I suppose. Not a huge amount thats too exciting to mention though. I've been working on the motor everyday, but it just seems to have a long list of small bits to do that never ends. I'm making up a new steel cover to go over the black plastic cover with the cuttout that you can see at the bottom of the last picture. Thats taken a fir bit of hours as it keeps pulling out of shape with the welding. The wiring loom is just about completed. I've plugged in the computer and it doesnt throw out any errors so thats promising. I'm really waiting on welding of the oil sump. The guy who is doing it has been a bit snowed under and not had a chance to finish it...I'm keeping my fingers crossed for later this week.

    If this topic is a book Cappa.....it must be 'the never ending story'....hehe

    Elliot
     
  88. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Made some progress today at work during a quiet few hours...hehe made up a steel cover plate to sit on top of the black plastic cover where the OE ISCV sits which I wont be using. Just brought it home tonight to check the fit and it looks pretty good. It was a bit of a pain trying to weld it up with a mig as it kept pulling....must invest in a HF Tig machine !!! I'll drop it off at the chrome platers tomorrow...should look blinding when its done I hope.

    [​IMG]

    Elliot
     
  89. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Picked up the cover plate from the chrome platers today. Its not 100% perfect, there are some imperfections where some of the welds are and the platers hadnt filled them with copper like i'd asked.... maybe that's just me being picky ?
    [​IMG]

    Elliot
     
  90. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    After 3 weeks of chasing up the machine shop, the sump has now finally been completed. I am 99% sure that the sump would have sealed up fine against the underside of the block, but you cant be too careful. I also asked the welder to have the rear plates that butt against the bottom part of the bellhousing 2mm too far out on purpose so that if it pulled when welded, there would still be enough meat to machine off back to square. Sods law....it didnt pull at all and stayed pretty much at 90 degrees to the top plate. I got the machine shop to machine the 2mm extra material off to make it a perfect fit to the engine / transmission.

    I designed the scraper plates myself....I've no idea how effective they will be...it's a bit of a learning process as far as this kind of thing goes. All I have to do now is make up a baffle plate to wrap around the pick up pipe and bolt it all together..

    The tube welded on the top left is for the oil level dipstick.
    The bolt on the bottom left is a magnetic pick up drain point
    The brass coloured fitting on the bottom right is for the electric oil priming pump pick up.

    [​IMG]

    Elliot
     
  91. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Scraper plates help guide the oil away from the cranks rotating parts. All the oil that is pumped upto the top of the engine to lubricate the cams and valve gear flows back down to the sump through holes that run vertically through the block. these holes are right on the outer sides of the block. When oil flows down to the sump, the scrapers will also help keep the oil to the sides guide it back to the rear of the sump and away from the rotating crank. Any oil that comes into contact with the crank causes frictional losses within the engine and therefore less horsepower.
    Any oil that flows through the crank journals and down to the counterweights is then thrown off. The scraper plates help stop oil being thrown back up towards the crank again.

    Elliot
     
  92. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Managed to find time to complete the oil pump pickup pipe, strainer and tank baffle. Heres what it kinda looks like in the sump

    [​IMG]

    The pickup pipe and strainer were made from a rear sumped lexus supplied for free by David of http://www.lextreme.com (thanks yet again). I had to cut the main long section in half and weld in a piece to make it long enough to reach my sump tank. It's a bit of a rough cut and shut, but not easy with the mig welding super thin guage steel tube. The baffle is made from scrap steel which used to be a 44 gallon drum lid. I drilled some holes in the plate to help flow the oil down into the tank, however I've no idea if they are big enough.... I couldnt find my baffle hole size calculator for some reason... suck it and see.

    [​IMG]

    Heres a view of the undersize of the pickup. The strengthening rod on the top left was a socket set rack two days ago.....just hapens to be a close profile to the original 2 bars that were on the strainer.....
    The support bar welded to the bottom was one of the guys at works tools this morning, but he doesnt work the same shift as me and he left it lying around on his toolbox .....so I err nicked it ! (Thanks very much Raul! you're a mate!)

    Hope this thing works or i'll be up block creak

    Elliot
     
  93. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    I was hoping to mount the new sump to the engine early last week, but I was let down by the suppliers of the cork gasket material I ordered. It did finally arrive on wednesday evening and I immediately set about hand cutting the gasket using the sump as a template. I bolted up the sump to the engine and today (sunday) tightened it all up and filled it with fresh oil. I'm using a new oil made by Nulon. 10w 30 grade fully synthetic. It claims to be slipperier than any other oil and as its a new product, they are launching it cheap.....and being that I will probably have to do at least 3 oil changes during the run in period, reckon its a good choice.
    Here's a picture of the new sump fitted.

    [​IMG]

    I modified the dipstick with the 'bend it over the knee method' to make it fit. The top dipstick mount has been removed and rewelded into its new position.

    [​IMG]

    Heres a view from the back, the mating faces of the sump and engine are nicely in alignment, apart from fettling with the hole size, the transmission should bolt up perfectly.

    Elliot
     
  94. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Ok....at long last...... drum roll please !

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLu-_UwGWRc

    Ok...that wasnt that exciting.....but watch my knee get incinerated at about 10 seconds in.... !

    It wont idle as you can see, but that's with a base program sent supplied by Motec...I think a lot of the data on the motec program needs changing....
    Anyhoo.... it starts ! The beers are on me !


    Elliot
     
  95. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Thats the engine pretty much complete mechanically. I've sorted a few of the engines computer program conflicts and the engine runs a lot better now. A guy who works for Motec was supposed to be coming round on thursday to help but its predicted to be 38 degrees so that will have to be posponed......

    I was hoping to run the engine up on an engine dyno next too, but after a few phone calls i've discovered i just cant afford that so it will have to wait until the car is rolling to by dynoed instead.

    My plan is to finish welding the floor on the passengers side then repaint the floor in primer, then fit the engine, make the engine mounts, engine bay brackets for the radiator, and other bits and bobs. Then the rear axle and suspension can be fitted...a lot of welding and floor modding required there maybe depending on whether I go for a 3 or 4 link setup......

    Elliot
     
  96. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Sounds even better in the flesh....

    2 guys from Motec came round for a visit last Monday. They had a quick gander at the software and changed a few settings which then allowed the engine to idle without stalling. They never really revved the engine...but they did bring her up to about 2000 RPM and you could feel the concrete shaking under your feet, and the noise was just out of this world....I've no real adea of how much power this beast will put out but I got the feeling that it will not be dissapointing.

    I've been working on completing the front suspension compression struts this week. Thats nearly done now, the next 2 weeks or so I aim on finishing the passengers floor which needs some attention, then a repaint of the interior..and then finally the engine will be fitted.....

    Elliot
     
  97. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    I didnt take any video when the Motec guys were round... I was too busy monitoring oil pressures and temperatures and trying to learn what I could from them. The engine wont be started again now until it's ready for the dyno. If you run a new engine at idle for more than a few miles worth it will glaze the bores. And the only way to fix that is to fit new rings and hone the bores. The engine absolutely must be run in on a dyno for the engine to be able to bed in and give good performance for the rest of its life....if this isnt done it will be permanantly underpowered without the engine being pulled apart again. The concept of running engines in gently has evolved somewhat. When was the last time you saw a car with a 'running in' sign in the back window ? To put it mildly...the best way to run a new engine in is to thrash the be-jesus out it. When you see brand spanking new cars being delivered and the apprentice is driving the car like a 'tw*t' he's actually doing good....

    Elliot
     
  98. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    Time for a bit of an update.

    I've spent the past 2 weeks or so setting up the steering and suspension geometry. The car has been a mass of string lines, spirit levels, plum bobs and measuring tapes. I finally set on a best fit I could manage and tacked on the brackets I made for the compression struts to the chassis rails. I've also done a bit of research and made the odd phone call or two to work out how to do the steering from standard manufacturer parts. Basically the original capri steering rack arms are too short to reach the Ford falcon hubs and on top of that the ball joints on the end of the track rods are about 50 million mm to small to match up with the taper on the hub assembly.

    This is what I came up with ...........

    Heres the capri rack on the left, and then in line with it is the normal capri rack end arm.
    Up above it is a rack end from a (god do I have to say it) holden commodore, then to the top right is a track rod end from an EA Ford Falcon.

    The capri rack has an M25 x 1.25 male thread, the holdon commode also has an M25 x 1.25 thread and an M14 x 2 rod end thread. The suspension on my capri is mostly EB Falcon...unfortunately, EB has an M16 x 2 rod end thread....so as luck would have it EA (a year earler) has the M14 x 2 thread I needed...

    [​IMG]

    And hay presto (I mean...jesus...a miracle)...it all fits together !

    [​IMG]

    Even more hay presto....even the lengths are spot on and both wheels look straight..ish.
    Over the back you can just see the compression bar in place.

    [​IMG]

    Heres the compression bar again......

    [​IMG]

    Got a little tiny bit of metal modification to do to get the rears under there

    Elliot
     
  99. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    I managed to somehow get the 9 inch axle under the back of the car. That was bloody hard work on my own trying to fight with it to get it in place. I am going to use the original leaf springs initially to set the car up for the dyno. The springs will be removed down the track and replaced with a 4 bar link up and maybe a mumford link if I can find the room. The 9 inch axle I'm fitting was originally from a leaf sprung car. the leaf spring platforms welded to the axles had to be cut off and rewelded slightly further inbound to line up with the capri leafs. Also the locating points on the centre of the leafs are smaller on the capri so I machined up a small ring and pressed it into the platforms and made a new u bolt plate to take the bigger u bolts. With the axle now secured in position, I took to the rear wing with the ol angle grinder to make a little bit of room for the wheels. One of which is now fitted. I also offered up one of the x pack rear quarter panels and it looks like I may able to get away with not having to shorten the diff whatsoever !!! that would be awesum luck as it will save a lot of time and $$$.

    Pictures to follow

    Elliot
     
  100. Elliot

    Elliot Big Fabrication Guru Capri Power Member

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    I've removed a fair amount of metal this week to make some room for the new bigger wheels to sit under the x pack arches.

    I want to maximise the size of the rear wheel arch without having to go the full monte and fit full tubs, so what I've decided to do is cut the outer section of the rear arch just before it starts to roll inwards. I then transposed a horizontal line to the outer quarter panel, marked an arc, then cut out the rest allowing about 10mm overhang.

    [​IMG]

    I then cut slots every 20mm or so around the circumference of the arc and bent it back at 90 degrees. This will give some metal to weld the new arch to.

    [​IMG]

    Heres the gap thats left. I will weld in a new section of steel and cut it off flush with the bent off tabs.
    In an ideal world I could have cut the whole section of the outter arch half, but i didnt want to disturb that weld area if possible as it sandwiches 3 or 4 sections there....and heating that all up is only going to attract rust and is not the easiest spot to get into to clean up.

    I've trial fitted the fibreglass rear x pack arches supplied by smith and deakin and i've failed to be able to make it sit nicely, even with every clamp I have....it only wants to sit nice on one corner...then the rest wont go any where near where it should. I have managed to force it to sit where it looks passeable, but the stresses on the fibreglass are huge...and can only lead to future fatigue.

    So I've come to a bit of a problem.... as far as I can see all I can do now is :-

    Persevere with the smith and deakin kit..... and face possible cracking ??
    Find a shipper who will deal with fibresports and see if they are better.....the problem being that will likely take 3 or 4 months shipping time....
    Or do as Sir Bob(AKA the fat capri), and make my own version in steel.

    At the moment I'm swaying towards the steel version.. basically because...I know it wont crack....I can get onto it right away...and it seams like a craziest option.

    Elliot
     

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