Discussion in 'Members Capris' started by Vernon240, 22 July 2009.
What colour are/were they,
Black if that helps!
Having got fed up with two anti roll bars hanging around my office, I decided it's about time I did something about fitting one.
The original problem has been that even though I had brackets welded on for an anti roll bar, there just isn't enough room above the axle to fit one. The brackets themselves could really do with coming off as they have hit the exhaust in the past...but that really means the axle has to come out = it can wait.
So the past few years I have run without a rear ARB, but always wondered if fitting one would change the way the car handles, so I've given this a thought and combined how the old racers fitted their ARB's (saw this on the Mk 2 racer at the NEC last year) and how the Americans have done this. Answer, Fit the ARB below/behind the axle.
So, original 2.8i item and new ARB. This is manufactured by a company called 'Hellwig'. No, I'd never heard of them either, but apparently quite well regarded in the USA. After researching what would come close to fitting off the shelf. Ish,I came up with this:
I know, it looks too wide, but in my mind it all fits without issues :stunned:/>/>
Slightly thicker than the 2.8 one:
and these are the bolt on brackets:
and drop links which have turned out to be of zero use:
Current thoughts are for adjustable hanging basket links />/> .
This is how it will kinda look from the back....
and how the drop links from the original ARB mounting points will fit. Just not these ones. And maybe from the other side of the chasis.
see, too long, but I have a plan afoot.
I have a list of bits I want to order tomorrow that should help...so lets see if this plan comes together or turns into just another pile of bits in the corner of the garage entitled 'remember when I tried to fit that?' :lol:/>/>
After all that thought, I hope it works! :thumbup1:
Well, it looks good. I now have drop links made up using rose joints (they call them heim joints in the US)
I'll be slightly re-routing the fuel supply and return lines. These won't cause a problem, but I'd prefer for them to be a bit further out of the way:
but yep, roll bar test fitted, so ordered up the correct length of bolts.
I'll take all of this off, put the two axle to bar bushes on, re-route the fuel lines and put some protective boots onto the rose joints and assemble.
This bar is adjustable with three settings, so I'll try the softest first and take it from there.
Quality work Vernon, what's that axle off?
It came from a mustang originally. It's known as an 8.8, so the ring gear is 8.8 inches in diameter. Narrowed and upgraded, so should cope with anything I throw at it.
Nice job on the anti roll bar. Looks like it was meant to be there!
but Vernon, I have it on good authority you drive like an old man so why do you need all of these go faster goodies :boxedin:
Thanks 302. It took a lot of research to find what would come near to fitting.
Ah but Reg, it's not a go faster goodie, it's an 'aid to vehicle composure' goodie.
And who said I drive like you?!?!?!? :childish:
Question - what stops the Axle from pivoting now you have removed the top roll bar. Is it now all down to the Caltracks. Wont you find it a very harsh ride with all of those rose joints?
Yes, I can guess. I'm going to drive round there at a reasonable speed (don't want to be a danger to myself or other road users) and have a word! He's probably talking about a trip down to simply ford. It was hammering down and my wipers move like they are 40 years old. I could hardly see where I was going!
Well, maybe something you did not know. I've not removed the top roll bar. It's kinda difficult to remove something that was never there! />/> I've never ran with a rear ARB. I actually can't get one on there, hence me looking for something that I could make fit under the axle where I have room Vs over the axle where I don't. So when we were at the rolling road? no ARB, no caltracs, so it was just the springs that tried to stop the axle rolling back. If you look at a lot of the old muscle cars, it's the same, no ARB. The caltracs stop the axle pivoting pretty well...and that has huge rose joints. I know Tony had a lot of noise issues, but either he's very sensitive, or there was something not quite right, as my bars make zero noise with no real preload. So not anticipating it being harsher with the rose joints, as there are still bushes between the bar and axle...well, there will be anyway! BUT the proof will be when it's on and I drive it!
So, once this is done, getting rid of the current quick shift on the T5 as it's angled to the passenger side and not very quick...and I don't like it very much, so I'm swapping to an MGW shifter which has good feedback and is adjustable to people who drive on the right side of the road. And while I'm at it, I'll fit the new carpet I have. :thumbup1:/>/>
Hope it works out mate...by the way...HOOD SCOOP PICS!!!???
No hood scoop pics. I think it's still in the queue at the body shop! I'll have to threaten to send Reg down!
Well, playing around with the roll bar again and re-routing my fuel lines has all worked out dandy. The only problem was those brackets that were meant to be for an anti roll bar that were welded to the axle really started bugging me. The stopped me getting the new ARB brackets in exactly the right place....not too much of an issue, but the witness marks in the exhaust told me that they had hit the exhaust a few times, as where they are on the axle is exactly the closest point that the exhaust comes to the axle....so despite me saying taking out the axle wasn't going to happen....
and off came the ofending brackets
and as if by magic, painted and no brackets!
looks a little strange as axle at full droop here.
Meanwhile, the kit from MGW turned up. These get good reviews and it's a very comprehensive kit. Lots of 'American ' (sorry crash!) warnings though! On the shifter knob, for example, there is a note saying that the knob should be screwed on and the shifter jamb nut be tigtened so that the gear legend is oriented correctly. Do not tighten until the knob bottoms out on the stick and than crank the knob around until the gear legend looks right. A number of customers have done this and broken the ball clean in half!
I can't question the quality though!
You can chose additional sticks, and for $15.00 a pop, I bought two to try. You get allen bolts plus the correct key, a choice of using either a rubber gasket or silicone sealant (also supplied) plus some sound deadening to put over the gearbox tunnel when you are done.
The thing that also appealed was my current shifter is biased towards the passenger, which I hated. This one gives you the options of 3 sticks and complete adjustability for where the stick sits:
So this lot will have to wait until after Speyer now!
Really like the gear leaver set up I made a gear stick for mine but not really happy with it roll bar looks good too!
Well, ARB all fitted, but made a few changes to hep with clearance. The pre pump filter akwys bugged me that I could not get it closer to the outlet ofthe fuel tank...and now it was causing issues with the ARB mount, so time to sort tta particular issue out.
here is the way it was:
with the arb in place, I was very restricted as to where I could rotate the mount around the axle for fear of hitting the 90 degree connection.
So here is the new revised position:
so rear ARB all on:
drop links with rubber boots:
First drive out, all seems good, no harsher, but really need to drive it more. After the drive, noticed this:
oops, slight rub on the fuel pump, but I've adjusted the bar by rotating it around the axle tube to pull it down and closer to the diff cover and the subsequent road test proved all is well, so this has been touched in.
Onto the gear stick. I've had a NOS carpet ready to go in for ages now, so a good time to change the shifter assembly to the MGW version:
A rubber boot does go over this lot.
and here is how the gearstick attaches. This flexibility really swung the deal for me, as you have great flexibility as to where the stick goes, which is what I was after.
So need a new leather boot, but tried it like this to play around with positions. After testing, current thoughts are much nicer shift quality and a much better position...my old assembly biased the lever to the left. Getting into reverse much easier and just feels nicer to use.
removing it could also be an interesting theft deterent as well! Plus you can see the lovely new black carpet.
Other upgrades are new door speakers after the old JBL's seemed to crap out on me, as noticed by a recent passenger.
These are Rainbow speakers, they seemed to get good reviews, but picked these up in Germany as not far off half price compared to here.
although to get the original grills to fit, the wire mesh tweeter cover had to go (it just pops off with minimal effort)
Must do something about that redish paint on the carpet trim..
and finally, with my new front ARB I was using Mk1 brackets, as these were straight, but found my original straight versions which use the larger bolt, so as the front suspension will come off at some point, I'll replace the mk 1 versions with these. Blasted, but pitted in places, so acid etched and then primed, ready for top coating
Really does need an update .. this one..
wow 2015 whats been going on with this
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