Valve adjustment

Discussion in 'Capri Chit Chat' started by Charlie371, 26 September 2020.

  1. Charlie371

    Charlie371 Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Hi there I believe injector 1 has gone on my 2.8i can someone tell me how I check the spray patter on these injectors?
     
  2. barnfind

    barnfind Registered Capri Power Member

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    I just dangled all 6 into a crate of small plastic bottles, cranked the pump up, and with the snorkel off the airbox, lifted the metering flap to invoke the continuous spray. i then checked volume against each other. . . . They seemed fine
     
  3. Charlie371

    Charlie371 Established Member Capri Power Member

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    I did the valve adjustment today and was happy with all gaps, obviously as you go through procedure in the manual it say for example that valve 5 should rock so then you adjust cylinder one, I was just concerned with the cylinders that were rocking some of them seemed to rock quite a lot, is this fine or what is the reason for this?
     
  4. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    the term rock is where the inlet & exhaust valve of one cylinder transition, generally where the exhaust valve isn't quite closed, and the inlet valve starts to open ...
    so in effect cylinder on the rock - both valves are tight - both moving ..
     
  5. Charlie371

    Charlie371 Established Member Capri Power Member

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    I don’t know how to explain but what I mean is, the valves I’m suppose to adjust in the right order I have and when there gaps are fine but the ones that are the opposite have quite a lot of movement?
     
  6. Crash & Burn

    Crash & Burn Registered Capri Power Member

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    I think it's unnecessary confusion to look at more than the one pair of valves at the cylinder being adjusted. The timing marks (TDC, and 120 degrees each way from it, measured precisely) and pointer, if precisely matched, will do fine, especially if confirmed by the rotor in the dizzy. I never look at the other cylinder, though I've seen that description in some procedures. I suppose it's a way of checking that you're at TDC on the correct stroke, but once that is determined for one cylinder, the rest will follow in course. When doing it, you're just looking to make sure one of those valves isn't open, in which case you'd get no movement at all on the rocker (for example, #5).
     
  7. Charlie371

    Charlie371 Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Okay yes that makes sense thanks for the help just to make sure I’m right what mark is it I need to line up with for TDC?
     
  8. Crash & Burn

    Crash & Burn Registered Capri Power Member

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    On your crank pulley are the timing marks to be lined up with the pointer. As you turn the engine, watch the pulley and pointer. The timing marks will come around. First to appear and pass the pointer will be the "before TDC" marks, in 2-degree increments. Then will be one mark labeled "TDC". That's the one to use. The other marks I describe at 120 agrees from that, you need to mark those yourself. I did it while the pulley was off, but can be done carefully with it in situ. Make a degree wheel the same size as the pulley, mark it and transfer the marks to the pulley. From there, it gets easy.

    Marking the dizzy bowl is optional, but handy. I do it inside the rim of the bowl, with the cap removed. Doesn't need to be as precise as the crank pulley marks, just enough to see what contact the rotor is pointing to.

    Once the procedure is done a first time, it becomes a lot quicker the second time.
     
  9. Charlie371

    Charlie371 Established Member Capri Power Member

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    So I did valve adjustment and if anything abit noisier, so basically went through in firing order adjusted the right cylinder, and adjusted both intake and exhaust valve, when at top went through 3 times and gapes were pretty much there every time but on the opposite supposed rocking cylinder the gaps were all different and some rocked way much more then others yet when at top gaps were fine but you can rattle the push rod almost when at rocking point yet doesn’t tell you to adjust this, surely this isn’t right and must be adjusted? I’m sure this is what’s making the noise?
     
  10. Crash & Burn

    Crash & Burn Registered Capri Power Member

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    Mine always end up quieter. Unless you forgot to tighten the locknuts, I can't understand noisier.
     
  11. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    Is the camshaft itself worn, OR more of a pain, the bucket lifters binding in there housing, l had one 2.8 that ticked like it was ready to self destruct, one very stuck bucket and a few others on there way, one careful owner, but never been serviced!!!

    I was always led to believe a rattly 2.8 was better and more responsive than a sewing machine quiet 2.8, but that in my engineering head just does not make sense or stack up and l like smooth and no rattles.
    Was it a ticker before you adjusted the valves?
     
  12. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    Am thinking .. busted sequence..
    What actual engine.?
     
  13. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    it sounds like your adjusting the wrong valve when going through them, i could be totally wrong but it sounds that way
     
    Clockwork Orange likes this.
  14. caprimk3

    caprimk3 Richard Capri Power Member

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    Sounds like you have done it wrong.
    Turn the engine and when both valves are closed (both rocker arms loose at one cylinder), adjust these.
    As you turn the engine, one rocker it loose and you see the other valve coming up, when that has come up, both are then loose and and that is the cylinder to be adjusted.


    For each valve I have adjusted I take a note.
    And when all are done I turn the engine several times to make sure the valve clearance is still correct by checking with the feeler gauge.

    And when done right, the engine should make less noise at the valvetrain.
    If they are not worn out that is...
     
    Last edited: 10 October 2020
  15. 1970 sean

    1970 sean Established Member Capri Power Member

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    have you got a reliable old haynes manual yellow3.0 or purple2.8 all well explained in detail :eek::eek::D:D
     
  16. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    I did a bit of digging ... so copied unscrupulously from the Capri Club Scotland tech Archives (thanks Pete Gibson) ... found this..
    ----
    Engine:- Valve clearances (cold) 0.35mm (14thou) Inlet, 0.40mm (16thou) Exhaust.
    Looking from front of engine, cylinders positioned as follows and counting from front to back - left - 1 2 3 then front to back right - 4 5 6.
    Adjustment sequence as follows looking from front of car:-
    Valves rocking:- No1 Cyl - adjust No5 cyl in/ex
    Valves rocking:- No4 Cyl - adjust No3 cyl in/ex
    Valves rocking:- No2 Cyl - adjust No6 cyl in/ex
    Valves rocking:- No5 Cyl - adjust No1 cyl in/ex
    Valves rocking:- No3 Cyl - adjust No4 cyl in/ex
    valves rocking:- No6 Cyl - adjust No2 cyl in/ex
    ----
    now my take -
    1 - I don't like describing the cylinders as 'looking from the front' - a car has a left side & a right side .. so cylinders 1 2 3 are on the right side of the car / 4 5 6 on the left !!
    2 - in order to adjust the 'valve clearances' instruction should be, find a closed valve, and adjust the clearance between rocker & push-rod (or follower) ...
    3 - the instruction should make it clear how to identify the closed valve to be adjusted ...
    ----
    what I will say is, in the lists above -
    - valves rocking = valves under compression thru the timing gear.. and therefore not closed
    - valves to be adjusted = valves closed ... maximum gap is what is being measured and to be adjusted ..

    OK this is a 28i, I havent worked on them..
    but had great fun on my Pintos, and on my Essex..
    got lazy with the Rv8 .. hydraulic tappets !!
     

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