1979 3.0S

Discussion in 'Members Capris' started by 9 pence, 21 April 2021.

  1. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    At the risk of posting about one more Capri : - )

    Capri-1-DSC02058ed2.JPG

    But with the encouragement of Mr CO...

    Came into the family mid-2019 but started out life in the UK, arriving here in '86. The previous owner (2PO) re-painted it and that's when it acquired the Ghia bump strip.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Not_Anumber

    Not_Anumber Registered Capri Power Member

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    A nice condition Capri.
    Thats a first for me though, Ive never seen an S stripe above a bump strip on the same Capri before. Im assuming the PO liked the look of the bump strips and then thought stripes above them work ok on a Laser so why not on this.
     
  3. Crash & Burn

    Crash & Burn Registered Capri Power Member

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    Strips, stripes, unusual but personalized, and no less roadworthy. I bet you can't see them when you're driving and smiling.
     
  4. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    lovely ...
    hehe, I'm a devil .. .. I don't like bump strips, and don't like the S strobes ..
    but I do like to see everyone's Capri out there getting used and enjoyed.. she looks good and no doubt eats that scenery in fine style...
     
  5. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    A rare sight on NZ roads I'm sure, thanks for sharing.
     
  6. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Yes, not many 3.0 but a few more 2.0. The bump strip is practical but I'm not sure it would make it back on if the car was ever repainted. As you say though C&B, you don't notice it through the smile when enjoying the driving.

    Not that long afterwards oil started dripping from the rear drums

    Capri-failedOilSeal-DSC02946ed.JPG

    Both rear wheel bearing oil seals seemed to have failed, flushing out the grease in the bearings. Why that happened remains a mystery but the receipts suggest it's happened regularly before. It has new bearings and new diff oil so we'll see.

    Capri-RRearReady-DSC03394ed.JPG

    It also has shiny new bump stops

    Capri-newRearBumpStop-DSC03228ed.JPG
     
  7. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    Like you bump stops, I tried to remove the screws on my Ghia, with an impact screwdriver and the correct head, would they come out, no chance, so luckily mine was missing the rubber, out came the big mole grips, now removed, what make are your bump stops.
     
  8. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    They're superflex. All that was there was the steel back and I wondered if I was in for the same fun as you had. Luckily there was only one slightly stubborn screw and now the screws are liberally coated with copper kote. Every time I went over a decent bump there was a bit too much noise from the back so at least these will ease the impacts a bit. I was surprised how large the replacement bump stops were though.
     
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  9. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Did a few local miles after the rear wheel bearings but kept having an intermittent starter problem. It sounded as if it was engaging but wouldn't turn. It was getting worse so time to investigate.
    The brushes looked fairly new but the solenoid contacts were a bit secondhand looking
    SolenoidContacts-Before-1-DSC03492.JPG

    SolenoidContatcs-Before-2-DSC03489.JPG

    Still a lot of meat left so decided to file them down
    SolenoidContacts-After-1-DSC03519.JPG


    SolenoidContacts-After-2-DSC03518.JPG

    Also carefully drilled out the solder from the terminals before putting the "lid" back on.

    Since tried the starter briefly and it worked each time without hesitation. Unfortunately, there's a lot more off the engine at the moment...
     
    Last edited: 29 May 2021
  10. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    When I got under the car to remove the starter I saw coolant weeping from the radiator core. Not really serious except that the core looked very tired. Just in case this was the dam about to burst the radiator came out next and went to the local radiator specialists. Result: New core.

    Since the radiator was out now I could get at the fan pulley, which has been on the list to replace as it looks as if it had a close encounter with something heavy and bent the groove. This is probably the reason fan belts are semi-consumables on this engine. But why stop there...

    One of the mysteries of this engine is the cam grind. When it was reconditioned the then owner asked for a torque grind. None of the information about the timing or required valve clearances came with the car. I've been back to the engine reconditioners to ask about it but they used a different cam outfit then, plus it was 15 or so years ago. If the information does exist then it's probably in a filing cabinet somewhere. And there aren't many people around who can work those things anymore ;)

    So off came the belts and a rocker cover. I'm sure this process sounds familiar to some of you :)

    Dial indicator at work...

    ValveTiming-Cam-DSC03522.JPG



    ValveTiming-DSC03794.JPG

    Did this both off the pushrod and the valve spring keeper. Sort of "theory" and "practice".
     
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  11. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    The torque grind turns out to be different from stock by
    - reducing the duration on the inlet to match the original exhaust duration (exhaust duration unchanged)
    - increase the exhaust lift to match the inlet
    - inlet opens 11 degrees later and closes 26 earlier
    - exhaust opens 17 later but closes 18 later
    There will be some error in the measurements; I was getting up to 0.15mm difference in some places as I turned the engine over.

    From my limited understanding of cam grinds the effect is to improve bottom-end torque at the cost of the top-end. In practice there's plenty of go up to 3500 -4000 then the engine seems to run out of puff (comparatively).

    Just for fun and to put it into context for my little brain, I did a comparison sheet with some different cam specs.

    I'd be interested in any comments, if you have a different cam from stock, on how you find it for low-rev and high-rev torque.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    After checking the valve timing a look at the cam gear.

    Capri-timing-DSC03496ed.JPG

    A later nylon gear rather than the fibre one. But after I read one of CO's posts where he had a nylon gear fail the decision was made to change to alloy. Fitted an Autowelt kit with alloy cam and steel crank gears. I have also since seen a photo of a nylon gear with a split and just waiting to let go.

    AlloyTiming-DSC03834.JPG

    This was fine until I measured the backlash, which was enormous, but others advised (thank you oldschoolfords) that this is normal and expected. No instructions with the kit, alas.

    So all back together again, cover on, pulleys, belts, rocker covers, hoses, etc. All during a beautiful late autumn day of stillness and sun. Magic.
    Finally the starter and remember to gently tighten the 6 bolts through the sump into the timing cover.
    Except that one wouldn't tighten. There was only thread on the bolt and no thread in the timing cover for it.

    Botheration said Pooh (or words to that effect).

    So the next day the timing cover came off again and is now with someone to put in a helicoil or two.
     
  13. tazla

    tazla Registered Capri Power Member

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    Good job done .i changed mine and it did my head in .whining !after a good 1000 mile it quietened down but still could hear it.i shoved slick 50 in and yaaaay .well worth doing the swap though
     
  14. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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  15. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Timing cover back on and everything in its place.

    Now it won't start for lack of fuel.

    Took the pump that was on the car off because it looked as if it was leaking oil. Purchased a replacement pump locally but the arm movement is too limited for the eccentric. I can space the pump out to allow for the lack of arm travel but then have very little thread left to hold it on, even after milling the flange and filing down the acrylic foot on the end of the arm. I've tried the old one but after 3 months sitting it's got the pip. 3/8 tank of fuel and used a small hand pump to get fuel to the inline filter and it still won't pull the fuel in. I've taken the original pump off and it does seem to work but no joy on the car.

    Enough to p one off.
     
  16. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    Go electric with a gauge, l had fueling issues with a Zodiac, it never conked out again due to lack of fuel.
     
  17. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Thanks, I might end up doing that but hope to keep it mechanical for now. I'm not sure what you mean by "with a gauge" though...an inline pressure or flow gauge?
     
  18. Crash & Burn

    Crash & Burn Registered Capri Power Member

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  19. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Thanks C&B and likewise. I'm enjoying following your car diaries.

    After consulting someone wiser, I tried using the hand pump to blow air through the fuel pump, which worked. Then used the hand pump to pull air through the pump and again that worked. Connected the fuel pump to the pipe from the tank and pulled fuel through the pump ok with the hand pump. Then operated the fuel pump by hand and it still pumped fuel. Success! All back on the car and start it up for the first time since February <memo to self, consider carefully starting the one week job in the height of summer when you want to drive it. On the other hand, if I hadn't I might have been stranded somewhere>. Possibly the inlet valve on the pump got stuck closed.

    All ready to go out for a drive later in the week. Wait on, what's that petrol smell? Eventually traced it to a weeping of fuel around the crimp between the two halves of the pump. That also explains the slightly petrolly aroma around the car in the garage which I'd just put down to it having a carburettor. Definitely time for a new pump.
     
  20. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    New fuel pump from Tickover fitted and away we go. Good to hear the essex spring into life again.
    Passed its vehicle check (warrant of fitness here, equivalent to the MOT) with no trouble.

    As for the starter motor, well the operation was a success but the patient isn't cured. Still getting the click of engagement but no turning about one third of the time.
     
  21. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Tried the starter motor again with a voltmeter on the battery.
    Starts at 12.7V and drops to 10.5 cranking.
    But it seems if you turn the key too hard it goes past the switch contacts and the starter stops. Let the key go and you get another "clunk" from the starter. When you hold the key on the starter position and there's no cranking the voltage goes back to 12.2 and above, so it doesn't look as if the starter is in the circuit. That is, it's a switch problem not a starter one.
    Have asked in the electrickery section about the switch innards.

    While I was on the electrickery front I had a look at the fuse box. The fuse for the wipers and washer pops from time to time so wanted to check the fuses to start with.

    Position......1.....2.....3.....4.....5.....6.....7
    Ford spec..16....8.....8.....8....16...16.....8 Amps
    Found........25...25...8.....8....25....8.... 8 Amps

    So the wipers and washers (fuse 6) were on half what they should have been. I'll test the circuit again when the car's outside.
    Best of all though, the number plate lights, glove box and instrument panel circuit "protected" by a 25A fuse!
    Must have an old bolt around somewhere that would improve on that ;)

    Alan, those diagrams of each of the fuses and their circuits are invaluable.
     
    Last edited: 21 July 2021
  22. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Had to take one of the lower dash panels off and found this wiring job behind the ignition switch under 3" of insulation tape (caution to sensitive viewers)

    RadioFeeds.JPG


    Two 10A fuses feeding the radio, one off the yellow from the ignition switch (still taped up, below the plug and socket) and the other always on. The wire wrapped around the red feed wire had even been tinned.
    Interestingly the radio recently stopped working. The initial thinking was a dead radio but it turned out to be a poor earth (paint was in the way)...
     
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  23. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    got love the home jobs people do 20210726_113944.jpg
    this was on a members car i was working on it was like this when he bought it, so feel your pain
     
  24. Crash & Burn

    Crash & Burn Registered Capri Power Member

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    Mine wasn't like that when I bought it.....


    o_O
     
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  25. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    Better than a scotchlock, only just though.
     
  26. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    border line
     
  27. SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA

    SIDEWAYS 3.0 GHIA Registered Capri Power Member

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    One of the biggest excavator manufacturers uses scotchlocks when they do an add on to the harness and yes they do have electrical problems.
     
  28. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    hey 9pence ..
    the ignition switch problem.. Colin on here had some for sale - one of which had the correct wiring for not just the radio, but also the electric aerial ..
    that red wire that's been cut into goes all the way to the battery and alternator.. so I hope you either taped it up, or, disconnected that lot and taped it up anyway ..

    standard radio wiring is usually the yellow off the switch, thru an inline fuse, to the radio - main on/off .. the Red permanent feed is for the radio memory, but usually off an adaptor plug from the cigar lighter (fuse1 cct)
    Aerial Capri relay wiring.jpg
     
  29. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Thanks Clockwork. Yes, caprinerd put me on to Colin and one of them is on its way. I've got a fixed aerial, front and centre of the roof; not really a fan of that but it'll do for now, so went for the one without the aerial plug.

    I'll leave the main feed to the radio from the yellow with an inline fuse. It now has a better connection than it did before. Reconsidering permanent feed to the radio now. It would be nice to have it off the cigar lighter but if not it has its own inline fuse. Did the early ones have the permanent feed off the ignition switch? If so, I wonder why the change?

    The insulation on the main feed from the battery had been very carefully removed and the wire itself seemed ok. Crimping it seemed too much intervention (first do no harm) but sleeving it with heatshrink was impossible. In the end used self emulsifying tape on the basis it's used in high voltage work, aviation and the militree so it might be ok on the capri. Then covered that in insulation tape.

    As an aside, I've almost run out of the modern solder which has the flux in it. Can't get any more while we're in lockdown as it's not "essential" so will soon be back to the old solder and flux method. A minor thing compared with lockdown but for those of you who remember the tins of flux...
     
  30. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    as far as I recall all the capri radios had the yellow off the ignition, its been a separate wire outsid the main joiner for as far back as I can remember.. (preFacelifts - not a clue) but right back to my 73 Mk1..
    it was only once the radios needed a memory in them that they got the Red Fuse 1 feed, and its always been off the back of the cigar lighter so far as I can tell..

    I use reels of fluxed solder for all my bits n doods, but find that using a slight dab of plumbers flux gives a great clean joint.. so guess its belts n braces really
     
  31. 9 pence

    9 pence Established Member Capri Power Member

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    Since I needed a feed off the battery positive on the ignition switch, I've fed the radio permanent feed from that. There's a fuse on that line to the radio too.
    I'd have preferred to have it fed off the cigar lighter but I'm reluctant at the moment to open more cans of worms and take more of the dash covers off with the shops shut. Something to investigate later, probably when the dash comes off to fix the constantly fogging glass.
     
  32. caprinerd

    caprinerd Registered Capri Power Member

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    people mad, round the bend, up the wall, crazy and nuts
    i found in the car the red was permanent live and yellow was switch live but on the stereo its yellow permanent and red switch
     
  33. Clockwork Orange

    Clockwork Orange Glasgow Subway- Keeping it simple since 1896 Staff Member Moderator

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    most likely be a jap radio .. sometimes Yellow n Orange as well
     

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