Discussion in 'Members Capris' started by daveman918, 13 March 2020.
trying to work out whats in the Ford Performance box ????
Valve covers. There's a pic of one out of the box earlier in the thread.
I did see the pic but was curious to the box , that has now explained it thank you
Got pass the kidney stone and really hunkered down today to get the rest of the car disassembled. Interior and exterior are stripped for the painter with the exception of the front and rear glass. That'll happen tomorrow. Some pics for posterity:
Also, two of these arrived from England today.
ooooo shiny i like shiny
Grill on the car was cracked and had broken tabs. Found this one on eBay in the US. Pretty lucky. Perfect shape. A soda blast and paint by the painter and it'll be like new.
oooooo black , i likeblack
Me too. Not sure what paint they will use but I want it to be a flat black. Since I'm going with the qtr bumpers in the front with turn signals, I'll either make the lights in this grille into just running/parking lights or maybe fogs.
I have one of those grilles here in Scotland, bought in 1984 for my GXL, I got the marker/turn signal lamps over the counter in Glasgow !!
I have about 6 pairs of those lamps now, some with the chrome surround, some plain .. mostly from Norm Murdock @ Team Blitz ..
my 78series will get his back on someday too
oooooo V8 i like V8`s
Car is stripped with the exception of a few badges and moldings. The painter can remove those. Also the engine compartment was so greasy I had to get out the simple green and pressure washer to clean it up before I start the motor mock up. I'll start that today:
Looks like a solid shell that
It is except for behind the rear wheels, and behind the front right wheel, there is a slight bit of rust. Why ford ever put that stupid foam in for holding the tools is beyond me. It just holds moisture against the panel. There's some wild engineering decisions on this car in general (like the masonite/paper rear package tray). Who ever thought that would hold up was not an engineer.
nice going got the time so do as much as you can, its always nice to start with a fairly solid shell
Love a mk1
Must be like Christmas every time the postman comes with all those parts arriving, I'm enjoying the build progress on this.
nice solid project there dave look forward to the rebuild
Thanks Trevster. Waiting on a few parts. When they arrive I'll share some photos of the engine mock up / positioning,
Looked at a few different engine mount options and finally settled on one I prefer that uses proper isolators. I'd like the motor to drop just a smidge more so I sourced two additional isolators from V8 Land Rover's that are 6 and 10 mm shorter. I think the 6mm should get me dead on where I want to be. The Transmission bracket and mount will be here in a week or so. Once that's all bolted up, I'll make the final sheet metal removal for the radiator and fashion up the way I want the framing to look around it. The body man will take that roughed up work and make factory looking farming and panels to fit around it.
Also some gauges arrived today.
What engine mounts are those?
Some day my Capri will have a V8
Those mounts are from CapriPartsUsa.com - Chris is a good dude and these work great for a North America car. There's no guarantee that your crossmember is the same dimensionally unfortunately.
I'm pretty sure the important things on the crossmember are the same. The 1974 US MkI I used to work on certainly seemed that way. I had my own crossmembers laying around at the same time, the only difference seemed to be the 3-bolt fitting on the frame rails, and the strenghtening plates that sandwiched the frame rails and the cross member.
I will also (want to, plan to, dream?) build a V8 Capri, some day. Maybe for my daughters 20th birthday?
Think also the Mk1 US crossmembers are the same as the rest of us
My 78' 2.3 v6
I did a bit of digging a while ago ...
so there are very few Crossmember variants, and there is no difference between LH & RH Drive .. basically all engine types & Essex.
the change in 05/79 was the introduction of Power Steering ... after Mar 78 when the towloop was introduced the change again was
for power steering ...
to fit various engines, Ford designed the engine mounting brackets to fit the various engines, ont
Good to know!
Quick update. The engine mock up went well now that I have some engine mounts that work well. Next week I'll get the transmission mounted up and at that point I'll just be waiting for the painter to come get the car.
Nice project daveman, will be an awesome car when finished, cant wait to get mine this far along, keep up the good work.
Well sorry guys, it's been forever. This whole Covid thing really impacted my ability to get a new job and I decided to start my own company so that's taken up a lot of time. This weekend we will be mocking up the engine and transmission one last time and finishing off cutting out the radiator area for the larger radiator. BTW, on the badges I went with BilletBadges and could not be more pleased with the results. The quality is in line with the price (not cheap).
Those badges look great! I like those kind of details.
Quality badges, what company have you started up out of interest?
Customer integration for residential and commercial. Doing Automation, Audio/Video, Networks, Surveillance, Custom Control, etc. Had enough with big corp anyway.
Waiting for some adjustments to my custom transmission cross member bracket and then the mock up engine will go in with the trans for the final fitting. Then it's off to paint.
Ooh they look good..
What price for script reading ‘3500’ with that same V8 panel? 4 shields without locating pins ??
These are about $500 US for a pair.
OK - Progress update - Goes to the painter Feb 19th.
We got the engine completely mocked up and I did a little fire wall relief for the top two transmission bolt access. This 1974 US car is a weird duck with a broader transmissions mount so I'll end up just having to make my own.
Mock up engine in the bay. Tried three different isolators and settled on Rover mounts with a steel shim to get the motor nice and low:
Firewall Clearance - Ending up using a hammer to divot in about 1/2" where the bolts are located. You can see where I marked to do that before taking the mock motor back out.
Transmission ends up in a relatively good position. Going to build a bit of a different bracket or have this one modified:
The other thing that had to be dialed in before paint was the front and rear bumpers. We ground out the federal bumper mount in the rear and some body work will have to happen there now. In the front we were able to get the RS Quarter Bumpers and Brackets to work. I don't know what you do with the very outside bolt on the side of the car yet. I asked on another thread. They lined up OK on this US '74 and required new holes to be drilled for the main brackets.
I do have to figure out if I want to keep the massive lower hole in the front end or fill it in a bit. I bet with the V8 it'd help with cooling but I wonder if it'll be a better look more closed off.
Lastly, the wheels fit. Got the tires put on the wheels last week. They are Yokohama Advans in 205/50-15. When we do the body work, we'll be adding RS like small front flairs. We're still deciding on how to flare out the rear a little bit.
Does Anyone Know what the original Fog Lights were that fit on those RS 2600 brackets? I saw some pics that looked like Marchal 656s but I'm not sure. Anyone got pics?
apparently, according to the RS website, they used the fog-lamp brackets to steady the rocky-rolly bumper pieces, but never fitted lamps to them.. ..
Nice, still looking good. I will take mental note of the firewall vs bellhousing bolt clearance deal.
We filled the lower opening in the valance with an intercooler on the US spec MkI we built here but maybe that's not an option in your case ;-)
An oil cooler may work or just some black grille mesh would probably work too.
After a bunch of deliberation, I ordered up the short block yesterday.
306 cu. in. roller block small block ford (.030 over 302)
Squared, Line Honed, Decked, Lifter Bores Honed, Proper Boring with Boring Plates
Hypereutectic Pistons (forged unnecessary for a 6k redline)
Comp Cams XE266HR cam installed and degreed
I'll be bolting on AFR 165 cnc ported aluminum heads with 58cc chambers for a 9.5:1 compression ratio and top it off with a Weiand Stealth Manifold and a Holley Sniper Fuel Injection throttle body.
This combo should make somewhere around 320 HP and 340 TQ at the rear wheels. Will require a bit of throttle control. LOL
this should go ... Well ..
A little more work this evening. Finished removing the necessary bits so the big radiator will fit further forward in the engine bay.
The car will have a decent stereo system so I wanted to get some of that cutting and aligning ahead of time. Subwoofers will fire into the back of the rear seats. A custom enclosure will be made that'll align those with the two holes.
Speakers are Morel and these little Mid/Tweeter Combos work out great on the rear deck of a Mk1 for some filler sound. The front speaker will go into the front kick speaker pods that are custom made by CapriPartsUSA.
They pull down nice and flush when tightened down. T-minus two days to paint.
Power and torque will be adequate, but still very much driveable. It's a Capri, it likes power
I take it you are replacing the standard fuel-tank.. it sits very close to that bulkhead behind the seats..
also the top speakers, you appear to have covered or removed the top safety belt mounting point..
following this thread with interest
Yep. We're cutting out the spare tire well, building a frame to reinforce / protect and putting a new tank in with an integrated electric pump and such. Here's a pic of the tank.
The car came with lap belts that were completely shot. I was surprised there were no shoulder harnesses. I'll replace the lap belts with newer since no one will ever sit back there anyway. Here's a pic of another 1974 California Car. No shoulder harnesses which was a bit surprising for this model year.
All loaded up. Off to paint in the morning.
Ah rear belts law over there, when i was over i saw a couple of MK1`s and both had rear belts fitted and both were the shoulder type? but this was in SA not WA
Capri Mk1 from Day 1 was fitted up for full 3point rear belts.. not bad for a design dating back to 1966..
That's a proper trailer your Capri is on, looking forward to seeing it painted.
I think I'll do these for the belts in all four places and I won't have to worry...
must admit I would love a day pass to a summit store...
Watch out the mountings in the rear!!
The hard patch in the shelf requires the retractor to sit flat, summits unit may not work, and there is no other suitable mounting point.. or is it your intention to use the 2-point lap type?
In front they will work great, and the webbing colour option offered could be a very nice touch
Car is making progress at the body shop. The main guy on the car is really good so far and we were all pleased to find that there is only a few repairs on the car over its long existence. Overall super solid shell. Here's a some pics after strip with the first front fender mocked up. Most body holes will be filled including the side markers for a very clean look. And yes, I did give him pictures of fenders flares I liked and an actual model of a 2600 (you can see them taped to the car). The color is a secret at this point as I didn't go with the Maze Yellow.
Nice metal under the original paint:
The front fender flare so far.
The only major work that occurred at sometime on the original body:
lovely progress Dave.. Nice to see a good condition whole body .. your weather conditions do seem to work some protective magic..
personally I would have kept the side markers, I love them..
Here’s a progress update on the build. I just returned from the body shop and the high build primer is now on the car. The overall work is fantastic and the fenders came out better then I could have wished for. I really wanted them to flow into the body naturally and not be over done. The second rear exhaust cutout is on the money too. Here are some pics.
My motor builder also sent me a bit of a tease:
That body looks flawless!
Thanks! I was very lucky to find this car. It took me 4 years to find the right one.
Smashing update Dave ...
Body is looking good..
and always preferred the two separate outlets for the exhaust.. was a mod I did to my 3000GXL way back in 1988..
wish I still had that one
The longest I have kept a car is 38 years and I still own it, but if I could turn back time my 3.0 GT XLR would be on the list and my MK1 Mexico and my 72 Camaro, back on track a MK1 Capri in any shape deserves what you are doing to it, judging by your previous build it will be better than most on the circuit.
Has anyone experienced both a Quaife ATB and a 3J plate rear differential? I had a Torsen in the roadster and liked it. The Capri is mostly a street car. Thoughts/opinions?
Also, I've done a diff before (Ford 8.8). Is it the same in these units? New bearings, shims, mark the gears and adjust shims?
A very important part of the build arrived yesterday. Machining looks great, .030 over, ten/ten on the mains and rod journals and zero deck height... Should be just over 9.5:1 compression. Plenty of Go-Go-Go. Put it back in a bag until next week when I'll start to assemble the long block.
love an 8 pot its the sound that does it
Been doing a lot of noodling on the dash again and I'm awaiting measurements of one of these units from Dakota Digital that would normally fit behind a 79-86 Ford Mustang dash. The gauge layout is surprisingly similar and I can then get a new dash panel made out of HDPE or aluminum to sit in front of these to give it depth as you talked about. The cool thing about it is how easy it would be go integrate with the breakout box it comes with. Any thoughts? I'll let you know what I find out for measurements.
For those not in Facebook, I've started putting the dash into a CAD program so I can customize it the way I want and have it 3d printed using Stereolithography. I'm also researching having the dash professionally 3d scanned as long as that's not too pricey. Here's a test 3d print using PLA of the left end of the dash.
Abracadabra brand. Go for it!
Nice, that does look good! I will keep that in mind for my V8 project I think.
Straight away, not withstanding the mounting legs, that dash-pod looks Ace Dave.. Not least the Volt Gauge, a bit more useful than the stupid ammeter that Frod stuffed into the dashes at Facelift in 72
I do like that - A lot ..
I agree, good looking unit. Some questions spring to mind -
1. Are the gauge diameters similar to Capri?
2. Can the unit be disassembled and the individual gauges moved to match the Capri spacing?
If both are possible, you could 3D print a housing to fit those gauges behind the Capri fascia to keep a standard-ish look!
A bit of progress on the motor this evening. Heads are on and in the morning I’ll calculate the exact pushrod length.
The gauge diameters are similar and the overall footprint is a bit narrower.
I'm unsure about disassembly since it's an integrated unit with a single umbilical cord that goes to a master wiring box. I don't expect this would be very easy to do and it's why I'm going 3d print a new dash.
It's not close enough because of the overall footprint thus the new 3d printed dash.
With a fresh brain this morning, I was able to get the right valve train angle and know my pushrod length now. Pleased with the pattern on top of the valve stems.
In the afternoon, I cleaned interior pieces and put them through my reconditioning process. Really happy with the results so far. Need to do the glove box door tomorrow and also tackle the center console.
More parts restoration today. Finished up all the interior bits with the new coating and I have only one piece I have to sand and re-touch:
Took the clock apart and went through the process of polishing the plastic while enjoying a whisky. I think I'll leave the hands with their bit of fade vs. trying to dissemble the clock any further:
Need to wait for the newly painted bezel to fully dry before re-assembling the clock. Unfortunately the bezel was dented at some point in the cars life. It is what it is. I post the reassembled unit when that is completed.
Here's the final outcome of the Clock teardown and reconditioning. It was tedious work but worth it!
Before and After:
May I ask, what process are you using on the interior black parts please?
I take each part and completely clean it with a 50/50 solution of simple green and water and a small stiff plastic bristle brush. Any weird issues remaining I try to get off with a bit of elbow grease and a few instances I had to use very fine sandpaper. I used the wet sand type. After all of that is done I let the pieces fully dry in the sun (all water out of the little slots and such).
My biggest internal debate was do I leave them be at that point or coat them. I found a coating by Duple-color that is used for restoring interior bits and while it wasn't clear on the can it does support plastics (written in small letters on the back). It's a very high etching spray that is flexible and slightly rubbery to the touch. Did a test piece and was so impressed I did all the others. I really hope it holds up well, time will tell.
That's what I've used a long time for most of my interior bits. Haven't been pressed to do any touch-up, but it wouldn't be difficult with a consistent product like that.
Thanks daveman918, will be very useful.
More engine progress today.
Valve train is completed now with all of the guide plates aligned, everything torqued and the lifter preload complete. 1/2 turn of preload for the initial run in and then I'll re-do them after a few heat cycles.
Then it was on to the intake manifold. Got that done and was stalled because of a defect in the oil pump and the wrong bolts were sent to me by ARP for the timing cover and water pump:
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