Duratec 3.0 V6 (now AJ30)

Discussion in 'Members Capris' started by ganglygoo, 17 June 2018.

  1. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    hi there folks. i figured i would start this to document me putting the duratec into my capri.
    bit of back ground info i guess.. i am Kris, i've had the car for about 3 years. i had a build thread about 1.5 years ago but very little work getting done on the car meant she sat untouched for a few months. anyway.. it originally came with a 3.9 efi rover v8, but practicality, efficiency and such made me want to head down the duratec v6 route. over this time i have also changed a fair amount.. resprayed signal yellow (although still have a few panels left to go) big wilwood dics up front, sierra discs and calipers at the back, coilovers on the front with gaz inserts, gaz on the back. also sacked off the old x frame that the car came with and replaced with a panhard rod.

    at the minute the rover v8 is still in situ as i gather more parts.
    the engine is a 3.0 out of a mondeo, picked it up for £350 and came with all ancillaries.
    i'll be ordering an rx8 gearbox this week. i figured id use a 5 speed box as ive heard rumours these are slightly stronger. time will tell. and i'll also order an adapter plate this week too.

    as for engine management, i think i will end up using a motorsport electronics me442. ive already got the me221 version in an mx5 turbo, so i already know how to use the software, plus they are only based about 20 mins away from me.. so any dramas and i can just pop in and ask. going standalone also future proofs this it.. i'm thinking forced induction down the line ;)

    anyway, this weekend was spent pulling all the crap on the engine i don't need, all the annoying little brackets, power steering and a/c pump has all been binned.
    also a bloody stupid engine mount, which is mounted in the 'V' but cannot be removed with the heads in place! so i have hacked away what i can with the trusty grinder. this will also allow me to rotate the lower manifold and fuel rail, and also the top pleneum throught 180 degrees, giving more space at the back of the engine.
     
  2. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    also im having trouble trying to load images.. whats the latest on this?
     
  3. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    think ive figured out how to post images! :)

    this is the old girl as she sits as the minute.

    [​IMG]

    this is the fuel rail turned 180. you can see a hacked up mount if you look close enough!

    [​IMG]

    this is also on the cards.. composite panels! this is midway through some resin infusion.. trailing the sun roof here. stay tuned for a boot lid and bonnet

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Ptgladstone

    Ptgladstone Registered Capri Power Member

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    How do you make composite panels? Intrested on giving it ago myself
     
  5. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    youtube. search for carbon fibre bonnet. there is a 3 part video by easy composites. its a pretty good guide. on my sun roof i have used a diolen cloth rather than carbon (which is an arimid, similar to kevlar) and polyester resin rather than epoxy. this is purely to keep costs lower as im still in the trial and error phase.
     
  6. Ptgladstone

    Ptgladstone Registered Capri Power Member

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    Cool, thanks I’ll take a look
     
  7. Copey

    Copey Registered Capri Power Member

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    Be interesting to see how you progress! I am doing similar but with the Jag version of the engine :)
     
  8. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    found my original thread if anyone is interested in having a look..
    http://www.capripower.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/40443-capri-rv8-project/
     
  9. Nev32

    Nev32 Registered Capri Power Member

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    This ‘ll be a very interesting project! I’ve been thinking about such a conversion for quite some time now. Will the upper manifold fit when turned around 180 degrees or is there some work to do? Isn’t there an oil filter in the way for one of the engine mounts?
    Good luck with this! Also the compositie panels are very cool! :headbang::/>
     
  10. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    all the bolts line up to do so.. but the cam cover is raised where the cam sprockets are, which foul on the throttle body area. but im thinking to get it running to get another lower manifold/ injector section which will raise it up another 2-3 inches.. however i very much doubt this would clear the bonnet! but thats a hurdle further down the line for future me to worry about!

    as for the oil filter being in the way... i don't remember looking at it and thinking 'that'll be in the way' but i'll definitely have a closer look at the weekend now you've mentioned it!
     
  11. Not_Anumber

    Not_Anumber Registered Capri Power Member

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    slightly off tangent question as it's about the previous build. What gearbox were you running with the Rover engine ? Im getting some bits togetehr at present to drop a V8 into my project car (non Capri).
     
  12. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    it has an lt77, probably from an SD1. although i'm led to believe the r380 is a more desirable and stronger box.
     
  13. Not_Anumber

    Not_Anumber Registered Capri Power Member

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    Please give me first offers on the Rover related bits you have left over.

    I was kindly donated an LT77 box from PaulG & Paul Finney from this forum but it seems to be the van type (ambulance) which may not have the right ratios & wont be the same bellhousing.
     
  14. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    im afraid i am going to be getting rid of the rover bits all together to form a kit.
     
  15. Nev32

    Nev32 Registered Capri Power Member

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    That’s exactly how I had thought it out with the manifold! But you’re actually doing it :thumbup1:/>
    About the oil filter, there is always a way! (And I only know the engine from pictures)
     
  16. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    great minds and all that! ;)/>

    yeah i'll take some photos at the weekend, but im sure it'll be fine as i have also removed the a/c pump which is on that side. bound to find a hole or 2 to attach a mount to
     
  17. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    soo. this weekends developements.

    pulled the rover motor out, ready for it to be collected very soon. certainly feels like 1 step forward, 2 steps back when i see this! ha.
    [​IMG]


    anyway. made up the plates on the engine for the mounts.
    drivers side
    [​IMG]
    passenger side
    [​IMG]
    hoping the 4mm plate will do the trick! if not, it'll be easy enough to remake them thicker


    anyway, had a few goodies turn up.. these two!
    [​IMG]
    its a pretty good fit on the gearbox. however a few bolt holes were about .5mm out on the engine side, however i think i may be able to get around this.
    also found out the jag variant (which the plate is based on) so i purchased a S type starter but then found that it uses a different ring gear on the flywheel.. so thats another problem for further down the line!

    anyway, here it is, the two temporarily married up.
    [​IMG]

    so come next weekend i hope to place the two in the car, seeing if i am able to retain the mondeo sump, or go down another route. i've measure with the tape measure and its going to be close as to it clearing the cross member. also not sure if the engine will clear the servo yet! but if not, i'll pull the servo out, remove the sump and pipe up pipe, so then atleast i can start getting the engine mounted.
     
  18. Nev32

    Nev32 Registered Capri Power Member

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    Very nice, hope it all fits! :D
     
  19. Not_Anumber

    Not_Anumber Registered Capri Power Member

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    Has the V8 been sold now ?
     
  20. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    almost.. its awaiting collection.
     
  21. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    sitrep.

    managed to slot the engine and g/box in the car! bit tight but i am trying to retain the sump, although i have routes to go down if all else fails, but this meant cutting the crossmember. didnt want to do it, but we will see what happens. down the line might end up putting an unchopped xmember and a different sump. also trimmed the lip in the engine bay, the lip between the bulkhead and heater bubble section. also chopped the end of the cam off, the bit that drives the water pump. the engine is a damn nightmare because of the water pump drive on the back on the head. the head is probably 1.5 inches longer that it other wise could be!

    [​IMG]

    thankfully though it clears the servo, steering rack, and the oil filter clears the xmember. :)/>/>/>/>/>

    so this images shows the space i have one side.. probably 3 inches, however in the top of the photo you can see its about 1/4 of an inch for the other head.

    [​IMG]

    this shows the stick position. only about an inch or two further back than i'd like. but cant complain too much. small bit of trimming around the stick area too to get the rear of the box high enough.

    [​IMG]

    the box sits at a slight tilt. so fabbed up a nice little bracket for the mount to attach to

    [​IMG]

    started making the g/box mounts too. should be fully welded tomorrow i hope. although it is the gf's bday! i don't know if the setup will be man enough, but time will tell

    [​IMG]

    and this is an rx8 prop. carbon fibre.

    [​IMG]

    i needed to buy one any way for the splined end to make a prop with.. however.. much to my delight it is near as dammit the right length. i expect i'll get an adapter made up to go between the prop and axle, so it will allow the two to bolt together, which i will make sure is about 30mm long which will help further engage the splines in the box. :)/>/>/>

    so retaining the original sump and this prop (which was only £30) is fabulous.

    hopefully get the engine mounts done by the weekend, then i can start figuring out the water pump and plumbing situation. i'm sure that'll be a headache! haha.
     
  22. andygtt

    andygtt Registered Capri Power Member

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    Good choice of engine, I run one in my other car turbocharged to over 700bhp reliably. (I've run over 600bhp for around 8 years now).... its an awesome engine perfect for the Capri IMO and i do know of someone who has recently got the factory ecu working in an engine swop so even that aspect is doable.

    Incidentally there is a longitudal manual 5 speed box for the S type Jag that bolts straight up to the engine, I know because I have one attached to one of my spare engines :)

    Im going to be making my carbon bonnet later on in the year, just need to do the final coats of paint on my existing steel bonnet so its absolutely perfect before taking the mould.
     
  23. andygtt

    andygtt Registered Capri Power Member

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    BTW, modifying the sump is relatively easy for a decent alloy welder, I run a big wing modified sump lone with a lengthened pickup pipe on my engine.

    The Jag sump is designed to go your direction (unlike the mondeo sump which is traverse) however the cut out is at the rear of the engine rather than front like the Mondeo.
     
  24. andygtt

    andygtt Registered Capri Power Member

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    also you might want to look at the Jag S type engine mounts, as the left hand side one incorporates the oil filter... if you want I have spare ones you can have for cost of postage.

    I have 3 Mondeo engines and 3 Jag engine (one brand new jag engine) that I am using for development... The Jag would have been a better choice for you as the engines are the same money AND the water exits at the front of the engine rather than the rear, waterways in the head are different so there is little you can do to change the mondeo from exiting at the rear.

    I bought an entire jag engine with 5 speed manual box for £350 a few weeks back.
     
  25. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    wow, thanks for the input. 700bhp?! is that all?! ;) thats awesome! you sound like a man full of knowledge about these engines!

    i went with the rx8 box mainly because of availability. both would require modification to fit, both would require customs props. etc. just the rx8 box is far more common and much cheaper.

    what method are you using to make panels? resin infusion?

    as for the s type engine mounts, thanks for the offer, but i think its too far back for use in a capri.

    and as for the sumps. i went with the mondeo one as its a rear bowl, the jag one would be a nightmare/impossible to figure out how to use. although i was thinking of the possibilty of using a rocketeer sump. they put the jag engines in mx5s. i contacted them and was quoted £370 including a pick up pipe. but i figured i'd try with what i had.
     
  26. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    so.. some more progress to report. the engine and box are now mounted. mounts are a bit agricultural in appearance.. but they should hold. just made out of some old angle i had lying around.
    r/h mount

    [​IMG]

    l/h mount

    [​IMG]

    gearbox mount

    [​IMG]

    now the main problem with this motor is the coolant inlet and outlets are both on the rear of the engine.. makes it pretty snug with the bulkhead. but with trimming, a bmw locking wheel nut and some resin i have made this. moves the pipe that would originally go rearward, to the side, avoiding the bulkhead. (bmw locking wheel nut because it was the perfect diameter to plug the old hole. give it a trim and glue it in!) allowing much more space. again, a bit barn yard engineering, but maybe in the future get something 3D printed to replace it.

    [​IMG]

    and here you see where it goes. should work :)/>/>

    [​IMG]

    now as for the water pump.. i have decided to buy a davies craig electric water pump. this is because mounting a mechanically driven water pump would be tricky, routing a drive belt for it would also be a headache. so a ewp just seems like it will eliminate a huge amount of time and effort. and it will be able to be driven from the ECU i plan on using, giving me full control. which also makes me think i probably wont require a thermostat (reducing plumbing complexity) as the flow rate could just be turned right down until the engine gets up to temp.
     
  27. andygtt

    andygtt Registered Capri Power Member

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    I am also removing the original water pump and fitting a Craig Davies, Im not planning to use a Thermostat and will use the ECU via a PWM to control the pump.

    What ECU are you planning? I have a base map for the Motec M800 I used to run.

    I use resin infusion although I did build myself an Oven and have made some parts in PrePreg.... Larger parts are better in Resin infusion as you can foam core the part making it lighter and stiffer... I have steadily been making the moulds for my Capri.
     
  28. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    oh nice. along the same lines then. ive ordered a 150 L/min which should give plenty of head room for future developements.

    im planning on using a motorsport electronics ME442. several reasons for this..
    1) they are very local (15 mins away) and very helpful chaps.
    2) i have their ME221 on my mx5 turbo so i already know how to use the software etc.
    3) they make a loom which fits the aj30 engine. although i dont know how similar the two engines are. i know the aj30 uses coil on plug, whereas the duratec doesnt.
    4) they supply the ECU for the mx5 rocketeer using the aj30. which also uses a davies craig ewp which i found out yesterday. so i should be able to use the same base maps etc.
    so to me, it seems like a bit of a no brainer.
     
  29. andygtt

    andygtt Registered Capri Power Member

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    Good plan and as you say no brainer!... there are a few differences in the loom, but mainly additional stuff you don't need on the Duratec, for example dual cam sensors were you only need one.

    The Duratec does have coil on plug, i think it was only the early 2.5L versions that didn't? certainly all the 3.0L Duratec's i have have coil on plug.
     
  30. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    oh really? well mines from a 2005 mondeo. and browsing google images of the st220 motors they have the same set up, with a single coil pack mounted on top of the front cam cover. unless this is just a mondeo thing?! not sure.
     
  31. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    so heres my new electric water pump :)/>

    [​IMG]

    i think you'll agree that its pretty damn small. especially considering this is one of the higher capacity pumps!

    [​IMG]

    hooowwwever... i ordered the mounting bracket to go with it.. thought it would be ideal, damps out vibrations when mounting, only 3 holes.. easy.. nope! what a total boll*cks design. when tightening down the clamp, it squeezes the pump out.. then when fully clamped up it could barely hold it owns weight. why the hell they didnt just mount some little tabs on the pump body which you then mount to some little rubber bobbins for vibration damping, i'll never know!
    anyway.. its mounted now. not the perfect position, as it's not as low as i'd like, but it'll do. the instructions said it could even be mounted in the top hose, but monitoring the coolant level becomes critical to avoid air locks.

    [​IMG]

    as you can see ive made the pipe to go from the bottom hose to the pump, now we just await more hoses, pipes and turns.

    this project is actually coming along quicker than i had actually planned! :) shame im off to america with work for 3 months very soon! :(
     
  32. andygtt

    andygtt Registered Capri Power Member

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    May well be just a mondeo thing as the whole engines I have bought are actually Maverick versions of the engine, identical internally except for cams, the rocker overs and timing cover are different as well as the inlet manifold as these are the same as noble hence I baught these 3.0l engines rather than ST220.... regardless could on plug does work on the 3.0L so you should be fine if you manage to source some.
     
  33. Copey

    Copey Registered Capri Power Member

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    if it helps i am planning to go for audi/vw coil packs on the AJ30 in mine, you can get a set of 6 for £150, made by NGK
     
  34. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    About time for an update i think! so after months of being in the states it gave me plenty of thinking and planning time for this project. so the first thing to sort out was the starter/ flywheel. now i could have just used a S type flywheel and starter and be done with it.. but the cost of a new flywheel is a fair bit, plus not many second hand flywheels for sale and also a lack of after market options made me want to stick with the mondeo flywheel arrangement. lightweight fly wheels and heavier duty clutches are far more available, so the next challenge was finding a suitable starter. from purely looking at photos online i thought the zetec ring gears looked very similar, so bought myself a ST170 starter motor for about £15 to give it a go..

    [​IMG]

    mounted it on one of the holes and rotated it to get it sat at the right point, mark it up and redrill the adapter plate, and she fits a treat.

    [​IMG]

    rigged it up to a battery and seemed to crank pretty good :) result.

    so next was the clutch..
    i decided i wanted to use a concentric slave cylinder, this would mean i wouldnt have to cut a slot in the transmission tunnel to cater for the rx8 slave cylinder and clutch arm. so managed to find a nice cheap one on ebay for a v6 mondeo for £18 which for trialling is perfect. anyway, it is a no go, the bell housing simply isnt deep enough, with the cylinder completely depressed, it would have had about 1mm of free space which just isnt enough.. so rx8 slave and clutch arm it is then!

    so next problem, the rx8 slave overhangs the box where the engine is, so had to make a little bracket to move it rearward.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    so you can see its going to be a nightmare to try and bleed in situ! haha.

    [​IMG]

    and here is it with the engine and box back in and the slot i didnt want to cut. i wont be patching the hole over just yet, need to get a master cylinder, rig up the hyd line and check the throw etc before i then plate over.

    also now got some exhaust manifolds from a mondeo, this is just to get the thing up and running as soon as possible,

    an adjustable fuel pressure regulator has been purchased also
    ECU and loom have now been purchased along with some ford maverick coil on plugs.

    as for the composite panels..

    [​IMG]

    made the boot lid outer skin, not perfect, but learning and still not trimmed. it'll eventually be painted body colour too.

    more updates to follow soon.
     
  35. Copey

    Copey Registered Capri Power Member

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    Good to finally see an update man! Looking good :) the bootlid looks well too! Wouldn't mind having a go at carbon fiber myself at some point!
     
  36. trevster mk 2

    trevster mk 2 Registered Capri Power Member

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    Good progress there, looking forward to see you getting it done:)
     
  37. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    Slowly but surely! Yeah give it a go, easy composites do a good guide on Youtube. Its very time consuming and frustrating though! haha
     
  38. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    Thanks bud, might be waiting a while to see it done though! haha
     
  39. Copey

    Copey Registered Capri Power Member

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    Cool, i have seen the vids on youtube :) tempted to do a bonnet...i may try something smaller first though! Haha
     
  40. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

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    so small update.. recieved this in the post! ;) bought a loom for the aj30 at the same time, and by the look of things im fairly confident it'll plug straight into the duratec engine.

    [​IMG]

    fashioned a nice little box to go over the hole in the transmission tunnel, but as i said before i'll wait til i test the clutch before welding this in.

    [​IMG]

    started making some coolant lines, this is the feed line into the engine from the pump, the return is going to have to run basically around the servo legs which im not looking forward to, but its the only space i really have.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    now the next problem i face is the inlet manifold, i have planned on using the original turned 180 but with the throttle body section chopped and rewelded at a different angle to clear the cam cover, but after chopping it, it fouls on the tops of the coils and also the oil filler cap, so without chopping many sections out of it, its not going to work, so next i ordered one of the older style crossover manifolds and again it fouled on the cam cover where the sprockets are and it would need to be raised about 30mm to work. so now im thinking the later style s type manifold which didnt have that horrible 90 degree turn in it, but im doubtful this will clear the cam cover too as the aj30 has shallower heads, so which i could space up until it clears, at which point it definitely wont clear the bonnet, so any ideas i am welcome to.
     
  41. Ptgladstone

    Ptgladstone Registered Capri Power Member

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    5 March 2016
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    464
    Location:
    North east
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    Peter gladstone
    I had a similar problem with my BOA turbo conversion. I ended up getting a one custom made. More expensive but saves a lot of headaches and messing around
    3B77C53C-6249-4502-A167-32049346BCBC.jpeg
     
  42. Copey

    Copey Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    17 July 2009
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    9,717
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    Sierra Sapphire, Ford Capri
    Got the same inlet for my AJ30 to have modified! Off an omega v6
     
  43. Ptgladstone

    Ptgladstone Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    5 March 2016
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    Location:
    North east
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    Peter gladstone
    That’s the one, fits nice on a v6
     
  44. Copey

    Copey Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    17 July 2009
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    9,717
    Location:
    North West
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    Sierra Sapphire, Ford Capri
    Aye, spotted a few 2.9s with them on at a show, what gave me the idea!
     
  45. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    26 October 2016
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    33
    Location:
    Wiltshire
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    no
    so, time for an update! so the big stuff first.. so, the engine was going to be a nightmare to fit under the bonnet as it was, it was as low as it could go before resting on the steering rack and was never going to fit under a bonnet unless i went down the route of different inlet manifold, then we start messing with flow characteristics which i don't really want to get into!
    So a standard manifold was the way to go, now the only way to make this work is to get the engine to sit about an inch lower, and modifying the sump would only net me about 10mm before it start to interfere with the pick up pipe, so next step? drop the steering rack! the X-member has been chopped anyway to clear the rear bowl of the sump, so more cutting doesn't bother me. I took several measurements with it on a flat surface then proceeded to chop the rack mounts off, cut a slot into the x member to drop the mounts approx 30mm then re-weld. I've started some bracing but it'll be done properly at a later date, at the minute it was more about proof of concept to drop the engine. ( don't worry, i am aware of the effect this will have on bump steer, this will be rectified soon!)

    [​IMG]

    So modified the mounts to suit, now it sits beautifully.. i still have to drop the rear of the gearbox as lowering the engine kicked the tail of the box up, but i was never 100% about the gearbox mount anyway.

    pretty much all the coolant system is sorted, just gotta fit clamps etc.

    i should also receive my prop to axle adapter very soon i hope, which i am quite excited for, then when its fitted i can continue to make the exhaust (i've got as far as basically some down pipes) as i want to get it as close to the floor as possible.

    started the trial fit of the loom and ECU, couple of mods required to the aj30 loom to fit the duratec, but nothing too drastic which i hope to sort pretty soon as i would like to get the engine running fairly soon. i like to think so anyway. ECU up behind the dash on the passenger side.

    [​IMG]

    also ordered another lower manifold which will be stacked on top of the other one to allow to use of a manifold rotated 180 degrees) due to the throttle section fouling the cam cover, sprocket section) this section of manifold will eventually be machined down to allow more bonnet clearance, but for now it'll be fine to get it fired up. you can see the use of the high tech wood and 3/8 extension to prop the manifold up. ;)

    [​IMG]

    fuel pressure regulator also now fitted, was pretty easy just modifying the system i already had, but i've changed to a dead head/ returnless system which the duratec uses.
     
    Clockwork Orange likes this.
  46. Copey

    Copey Registered Capri Power Member

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    Looking good!
     
  47. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    26 October 2016
    Messages:
    33
    Location:
    Wiltshire
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    no
    some more progress for all to see :) i got around to remaking my gearbox mounts, i was never happy with the previous one, and with lowering the engine i had to remake one anyway, so was perfect opportunity to remake one!

    [​IMG]

    i am much happier with it, even with the drill bit and odd bolt holding it up! the gearbox has to come back out soon and ill clean around the tunnel and paint the mount then.

    i have also had to modify the ford throttle body. My loom uses an mx5 nb TPS, so made a little plate with some holes to suit the mx5 tps and tacked it onto the ford throttle.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    then here is a photo of my over the top coolant pipe, this routes behind the servo to clear the exhaust manifold! a simple 90 degree bend was just too boring and not neat enough! haha

    [​IMG]

    then onto the lower manifold, i had planned on just bolting it on as is with the injector holes welded up just to get the engine running, however when i was trying to weld it, it went to shit, i know cast aluminium can be hit or miss, but wow, it was horrific! so i scrapped that idea and went straight to trimming about an inch off of it with the trusty angle grinder.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    the trial fit went well, they still need to be send off to be machined flat. but got about 3mm gap above the coils, and a few more mm between the cam cover sprocket section and the manifold.

    the coolant system is now all clamped up. and i can't recommend these T clamps/ T bolt hose clamps enough! probably about 20x the clamping force of a jubilee clip. i use them on my boost hoses on my mx5 and never had one blow off and thats without a swaged end. you can tighten them down enough to deform aluminium pipes.

    [​IMG]

    ive been doing a few other bits and bobs like tidying the capri wiring loom, tapping holes for map and servo lines in the manifold and slowly progressing the exhaust

    i am just waiting on getting the lower manifold section machined flat and some gaskets and oil then i 'should' be able to crank it to check for crank signals and then try fire it up! :)
     
    2.8jonny and Clockwork Orange like this.
  48. andygtt

    andygtt Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    3 June 2015
    Messages:
    86
    Location:
    essex/suffolk
    Drives:
    Noble M12
    did you consider dry sump? I know were you can get the setup cheap and am using one on my car to get the engine as low as possible.
     
  49. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    26 October 2016
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    Wiltshire
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    No, i hadn't really.. it had crossed my mind but i ruled it out before i even looked into it because i assumed it would be a bit pricey.
    What setup are you using?
     
  50. andygtt

    andygtt Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    3 June 2015
    Messages:
    86
    Location:
    essex/suffolk
    Drives:
    Noble M12
    I found a few titan kits from an abandoned production engine, everything except the tank itself and lines to the tank.

    External 2 stage scavenge pump, retains original for oil pressure (no need to strip engine). It came with pan, pump, adapter for original pump pickup to sump, all the brackets, bolts, both pulleys and the belt for £600 instead of £1800+ originally and all they had done was dyno time on brand new production engines for a car that never happened.
     
  51. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    26 October 2016
    Messages:
    33
    Location:
    Wiltshire
    Drives:
    no
    well after nearly a year its time for an update! had no idea id left it this long to be honest!

    been slowly progressing the car. work and other projects have caused progress to slow. however ive managed to get all the bodywork and paint done! main panels left were tailgate and bonnet.

    ive left the bonnet off for the time being to try and avoid damaging it with engine hoists and such.

    anyway, a rear view..

    [​IMG]

    also progressed the rear section of exhaust, its pretty snug in there! still have to fully weld it, but that requires the leaf spring and axle to be removed first. nothing like making a simple job like removing an exhaust a PITA.

    [​IMG]

    now the car was practically 'waterproof' i decided to swap it out of the garage for the other project, took a snap after it had moved under it own steam in quite a while!

    [​IMG]

    anyway... if you look back through this thread you'll see i've had height issues with the motor and inlet manifolds.. even after lowering the rack to drop the engine lower it wasnt going to work, would have had crazy bad bump steer which couldn't be rectified through spacing the steering knuckles down because they'd soon be in contact with the antiroll bar.. so ive decided to change route slightly.. decided to swap to an aj30 varient of the engine.. the heads are about 2 inches shallower, and the cam sprockets dont protrude nearly as much.. giving heaps more space under the bonnet and just seems more logical for rwd application.. water ports on the front of the engine also help nicely
    anyway, here it is..

    [​IMG]

    while it was out i mocked up the alternator mounts and decided to use the electic water pump i was already using anyway.
    all the mounts, sump and oil filter housing flywheel and clutch swapped over as planned which was a relief!

    anyway, dropped it in.

    [​IMG]

    coolant lines were the easiest job going, i have plenty of pipe and silicone so was no issue for the simple layout now.

    i dont plan on keep that ugly monster of an inlet manifold either, itll be replaced soon with a much smaller, later unit

    ive had a few small jobs like drilling and tapping holes in the inlet manifold to get me up and running. also welding an6 fitting on the fuel rail.

    but the good news is that i had it running on monday! had to use rope on the throttle for the time being because im currently setting it up with drive by wire at the minute, its not quite ready at the minute though, but i ran it up to temp and it was happily idling away.

    my plan is to try get an MOT on it around march time!
     
    Crash & Burn, my928s4 and 2.8jonny like this.
  52. eau de cologne

    eau de cologne Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    25 August 2009
    Messages:
    298
    Location:
    swansea valley
    Drives:
    sorned capris
    I have never understood why discussions revolving around whether the engine bay cross member can't be dropped, only needs spacers and longer bolts or thread and weld the spacers to the engine bay rails, adjustable TCAs and mods to the antiroll bar maybe only needed, the same as happens when the car is lowered. Cutting and shifting the steering rack has got be more difficult.

    Bert
     
  53. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    26 October 2016
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    Location:
    Wiltshire
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    yeah it certainly could be done and i did ponder doing it after seeing it done elsewhere, however i decided on just moving the rack because it was the only piece in the way, as it sits about 30mm above the x member. shame it didnt work out though.
     
  54. BigJ

    BigJ Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    18 July 2009
    Messages:
    3,915
    Location:
    North Wales
    I’m curious as to why you had to modify the tunnel rearwards to get the gear lever into position and, why the engine is so tight against the bulkhead when there seems to be loads of room at the front of the engine?

    What determines the final position of the engine, is it the sump and crossmember clearance or something else?

    How does that Jag manual box compare dimension wise with a T9? If you’d opted for the Jag 5 speed manual then would that have still required the mods to the tunnel?

    In its standard form what power does the Jag engine kick out?
     
  55. ganglygoo

    ganglygoo Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    26 October 2016
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    Location:
    Wiltshire
    Drives:
    no

    sooo.. the tunnel was modified by the previous owner anyway who put a rover v8 and lt77 in, i modified the already modified tunnel mainly to get the gearbox sitting high enough.
    but yes it is primarily the sump and crossmember clearance for it being where it is, and that is with the crossmember with a section chopped out

    as for the jag compared to a t9 box i cant say, the bell housing section on them looks big in pictures, but im just guessing, i just went rx8 box because of availability.:)

    the jag engine in standard form is 230-240 bhp.
     
    BigJ likes this.
  56. Jimbob69

    Jimbob69 Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    13 February 2017
    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    Ireland
    Drives:
    Caprivenezueala place
    Hey, really interesting project - planning to do something similiar myself. Quick question - did the AJ30 fire up on just the base map? Keep up the good work!
     
  57. andygtt

    andygtt Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    3 June 2015
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    86
    Location:
    essex/suffolk
    Drives:
    Noble M12
    Good move changing to the AJ30.... for reference a few people have modified the St200 alloy inlet to fit the AJ30 and the setup outperforms the Jenvey ITB's... cheap mod that I personally wouldn't have thought would have worked on the AJ30 but they have back to back dyne results.
    They have made over 280bhp with that manifold... apparently you use the AJ30 lower plastic manifold (so retain the injector rail), then you make a 15mm spacer to go from that to the ST200 upper.
     
  58. therealpinto

    therealpinto Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    12 August 2009
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    1,458
    Location:
    Sweden
    Drives:
    Capri turbo
    If you lower the entire cross member, the roll centre will be messed up as the TCA angle will change. Yes, the same happens when the car is lowered but dropping the cross member will make it worse. In extreme cases, it will also mean that the camber compensation curve (more negative camber on the outer wheel as the car rolls) will become worse and possible revert so you get positive camber on the outside wheel.

    Some people then think to relocate the TCA hole in the cross member - that will correct the roll center and camber compensation but unless you move the steering rack upwards the same amount, or move the outer tie rods, there will be massive bump steer.

    Moving the steering rack on the cross member is generally equally tricky - bump steer is easily induced. Reworking a sump or shifting the engine forwards/backwards is usually a better solution.

    The front suspension/steering is a system where all parts have to work together. As soon as you start moving things around you need to carefully check what happens to the geometries. I spent countless hours mocking this up when I changed my front suspension - and I am still not 100% happy. It is tricky to get the compromise working...

    Gustaf
     
    ganglygoo and Clockwork Orange like this.
  59. Capri GYK

    Capri GYK Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    11 May 2010
    Messages:
    50
    Location:
    East Yorkshire
    Drives:
    Capri 2.8 injection
    Hi
    I'm in the middle of doing a AJ30 S Type engine conversion and still struggling getting the engine sump to fit around the Xmember, I'm currenlty using the Mazda Tribute sump which is the best clearance out of the lot of them but I am now still looking at dropping the Xmember to assist as it virtually clashes with the engine oil pump. I'm not sure about bump steer as I've compared the 2.0 Xmember with the 2.8 Xmember and there's about 10mm difference in hieght where it connects onto the chassis rails anyway. I was hoping that as long as I kept the steering rack position in relation to the control arms then I'd be okay?!
     
  60. therealpinto

    therealpinto Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    12 August 2009
    Messages:
    1,458
    Location:
    Sweden
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    Capri turbo
    In order for all geometry to be the same, the rack needs to be the same height as it was before and the holes for the TCAs too - that is in relation to the struts, not to the cross member itself.

    So it depends on what parts are in the way. If it is just the cross member that hits the sump, but there is room for the steering rack, sure, you can move or rework the cross member if you keep the other things where they are supposed to go. But in many cases the rack will also hit the sump and you really want to think twice about moving the rack.

    One option may be to get a rear steer rack instead (for example Nissan S13 or S14? Golf?) and then you need custom steering arms that point to the rear and give correct Ackermann (you can't just swap struts from side to side using standard steering arms as they sit). Facing rearwards, the steering arms on the struts need to point inwards to the car for Ackermann to be correct.

    Gustaf
     
  61. blue74

    blue74 Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    23 December 2015
    Messages:
    113
    Location:
    Australia
    Drives:
    ST24 Mondeo, Mk1 Capri (maybe one day)
    Would be better to alter the sump rather than altering or changing the cross member if at all possible as Gustaf has pointed out. It's a big job to change the cross member to an S13 one and the sump still won't fit, have a look at '69 Capri Project build thread to see what's involved.
    Welding of the sump can be done by a competent welder however check for leaks before it is assembled back onto the engine. It's much easier to re-weld any pin holes before you have an oil leak!
     
  62. Capri GYK

    Capri GYK Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    11 May 2010
    Messages:
    50
    Location:
    East Yorkshire
    Drives:
    Capri 2.8 injection
    Hi, Has anyone got an ignition map for the AJ30 engine, trying to get mine up and running?
    Thanks
     
  63. robt100

    robt100 Registered Capri Power Member

    Joined:
    20 July 2009
    Messages:
    1,648
    Location:
    Notts
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    Lots of ongoing projects
    By 'up and running' are we talking idling or actually 'roadworthy' driving? Would have thought the people at motorsport electronics where your aftermarket ECU is from might have something on record?
     

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